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Birchwood Casey Plum Brown

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Ontario Hawken

36 Cal.
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I am finishing a 20 ga. smoothbore barrel as well as steel trigger guard and butt plate on a Poor Boy and was planning to finish it with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. Using this requires that the steel be heated to 275 F to apply the finish.

I mentioned this to my brother who's a welder and he suggested that the barrel could warp if I heated it to this temperature.

Do you think barrel warp or weakening could be an issue? Has anyone used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown with success?, Scott

Thanks
 
I used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on a rifle I refinished. I used a propane torch and guessed at the temperature. I am sure some of the time the metal was to warm and at other times to cool. The first couple of coats/applications looked like cat vomit. By the third application the finish was coming together. After the fourth application I felt it looked really good.
I don't believe the application temperature is enough to warp the heavy barrel. I was concerned when browning the lock.
I would have used any other product if it had been available, because I felt Birchwood Casey was too common and inexpensive.
 
I use a heat gun I bought from Harbor Freight. Don't know if I'm getting to 275 but I get a nice even brown, and don't worry about over heating small parts.
 
My brother has a large flame torch that should be able to heat the barrel to consistent temp as well as a heat gun to determine the over all temperature, so it is possible.

As the smoothbore barrel is thinner that a rifled barrel I am worried about possible warping.
 
I don't think I was clear enough on the heat gun I use. It is like an industrial hair drier. It will heat items up by heating coils in the muzzle end of the gun.
 
If you are worried about warping, leave it white or cold blue it and steel wool it back to a light gray/blue. Looks better than Plum Brown.
 
Sorry, I misunderstood. I have seen heat guns used for stipping paint. This may allow for more control and certainly less fumes in heating the metal.
 
275 degrees will not warp or hurt your barrel at all. Many many many barrels and small parts have been finished with Plum Brown with no problem.
 
I used a propane torch moving it over the barrel, not staying in one spot. It does the trick but take about five-ten minutes to get it up to temp so not hot enough to do any damage.
 
Use Laurel Mountain Forge browning and degreaser, all in one, from Track of the Wolf and you won't have all these issues.

I just finished a gun with LMF, and turned out great.
 
Agreed. LMF browning solution is the only thing I've tried to use, it works so well it hasn't occurred to me to try something else. :wink:
 
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