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Bird Hunting Etiquette

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Joined
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I joined a bird hunting place and they have never had a ML hunter there before. The owner was not opposed to it but was a little hesitant. I explained there was no "fire" flying out of the gun that would light the fields on fire. I also offered to let him shoot one of my shotguns. After further conversation, they have not even had a "hammergun" there whether ML or cartridge. To comply with their safety rules they were trying to come up with something. Funny because they know nothing about this. First they suggested hammers down until my dog points. I told them if it's capped that is a bad idea, and with a flintlock that means it's not even ready. I suggested half-**** and they seemed okay with that. I'm planning to hunt alone with my new pup. Maybe one of my son's with me. I am going to be working with the dog more than shooting this season. I'm considering walking un-capped and only capping when the dog points. It may be frustrating but I am not going to shoot a "bumped" bird anyway as this is a pointing dog. Any ideas and suggestions I may be overlooking?

Next issue is in the "safe zones" by the lodge. When you get to one of these areas there are buckets with red, orange or yellow "things" that you put in your open action so others can see the gun is at least "open" and presumably unloaded or safe. What do I do? I suggested I could un-cap or lower flints on empty pan. Then, I can put a piece of orange card stock under the hammers and even leave a long enough tab to write "Muzzleloader" on it in case anyone gets that close or curious. Do I also pull the shot each time? Or pull the whole load? Obviously I can re-use the shot and the overshot card isn't costing much. Another idea if it is permissible would be to use the orange tag at the safe zone entry/exit point and go straight to my truck with the shotgun and leave it there instead of their designated safe gun rack. You see, they think there are more potential accidents at the vehicle than at the safe gun rack where someone on staff checks that the gun is empty and you leave it there until you are going to the car for the last time that day. The safe zone is right at the parking area and extends around the lodge area and a few other select spots. I would be doing this safety marking (and should be unloading) from the car to the "hot zone" to hunt, any trips back to the lodge like for lunch, supplies etc., and any trip back to the truck. Also, if I were to stay over in the lodge there'd be a trip into the safe zone. I think my idea is simple and effective but they were still "thinking about it". Any other ideas for me to consider?
 
I bought a nifty thing at a cowboy shoot once. They took two dowels and fit them into a wooden block. You put the dowels into the barrels, and they have tape on them for red and green, with the red below the green. If it is loaded, it shows red, and if not, green.

Maybe invite them to take a few shots at hand thrown clays to see what they think. If they require that you keep the gun on safe with shell guns, half **** is no different if you drill it a little. Most guys I know who shoot hammer guns disable that fool safety and just rely on normal safety measures that have been fine for centuries.
 
I think you've offered up some well thought out options. Hopefully they don't insist you pull the charge.

Good for you that you'll have the chance to educate/mentor shooters unfamiliar with traditional muzzle loaders.
 
By most state laws that I know of, the gun is considered unloaded when uncapped or the pan has no powder. That should be good enough for them.
A piece of bright red or orange felt between hammer an nipple should suffice for a flag. On the flintlock maybe get some of those sandwich skewers like a big toothpick that have colored stuff on one end, use one with a red end to plug the flash hole. You can then demonstrate that not only is there no powder in the pan, making the gun unloaded by law, but also there is no access for an ignition source to reach the powder.
 
When it's all done, I think they'll make you pull your load before entering the safe zone. Under most circumstances a charge in the barrel won't spontaneously go off, but uncommon situations, like a fire or maybe a lightning strike or some other circumstance that isn't obvious could potentially set it off. I agree with one of the previous posters that the range rod with tape would be a good visual indicator that you are compliant. If it was me, rather than pull my load, I would attempt to not reload the last time when I thought things were wrapping up.
 
The few muzzleloaders at our club are fortunate in that the manager of our club is an avid muzzleloader and applies common sense to the safety measures. A muzzleloader is considered unloaded when un-primed...the cap is removed, or the pan is empty......Same as the states hunting regulation for transportation. Were it beyond that, I’d go find another club. In my experience, it seems that a muzzleloading bird hunter generally has a greater sense of firearm safety awareness and consideration compared to those hunting with the unmentionables.
I would think unprimed, and a cap/frizzen cover would suffice for a muzzleloader in safe zones. If shooters/range officers present can’t distinguish that a firearm is a muzzleloader, I would be far more worried them......
 
You had mentioned that blackpowder won’t start fires and I believe that is true under most circumstances. I do remember someone on here that said while using substitutes that some pellets would be burning outside of the gun and they had to go put out small fires.
 
This place has been in contact again. They are not so concerned about me and my shotgun. They are more concerned about the other members that don't understand and may think I'm breaking the rules. We agree that a colored tab under the hammers with no caps should be somewhat obvious to others. We also agree that muzzle control is going to be very important because initially some people will think it is a conventional shotgun with the action closed. I'm ready to deal with them and provide education.
 
Just agree to their rules and handle the gun the way you normally would for safety, i.e. the flinter being on half ****, etc. What are they going to do, follow you around? If they do, then Id find another place to join.
 
By most state laws that I know of, the gun is considered unloaded when uncapped or the pan has no powder. That should be good enough for them.
A piece of bright red or orange felt between hammer an nipple should suffice for a flag. On the flintlock maybe get some of those sandwich skewers like a big toothpick that have colored stuff on one end, use one with a red end to plug the flash hole. You can then demonstrate that not only is there no powder in the pan, making the gun unloaded by law, but also there is no access for an ignition source to reach the powder.
I was at a driven shoot where they were some shooters were stickers 🙄 about my flintlock being charged with powder and ball. They were quite happy with my using the same method with my flintlock that I use when hunting with an unprimed, but loaded flintlock. I use a rear, wing feather from a pheasant. It’s quill tip fits nicely into my flash-hole to block it(and keep my powder dry and flask-hole clear) with the frizzen down on the empty pan. About 3” of feather extends out of the side of the lock as a sufficiently visible indicator. Arrow fetching/water-proof on the feather portion keeps the feather from wilting/dry.
 

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