The prelubed patches are probably lubed with Bore Butter. It will cause hard fouling. Ditch the prelubed patches. Try a wetter patch. Not dripping but good and wet. I have had better luck with a smaller ball and thicker patch.
This is a Colonial kit in 54 cal from Jim Kibler. I believe the barrel is from Green Mountain. The very first time I loaded the patch and ball everything went smooth and easy. I noticed a lot of fouling. It took several cleaning patches with (ballistol & water on them) to remove the fouling. I ran a 50 cal jag with the scotch brite in and out of the barrel and do not feel any rough or tight spots.What gun/barrel do you have? I too have experienced a ball loading issue about 5” down but can’t remember which of my guns I had that issue with. When I encountered the added resistance I pushed harder on the ball forcing it on down and fired it out. Is this a brand new gun/barrel? Maybe a rough spot in the rifling?
A tighter patch combination gives better and more complete combustion. My real thought is to go to 3f powder. Finer granulations burn more efficiently.This is my very first flintlock. I purchased store bought lubed patches in 0.018 and 0.020. It feels like the ball loads pretty easy. I can try the thicker patch. If the ball and patch combo it not tight enough then there is more fouling ? Does this mean all the powder is not burning off. Should I test with 60 grains of 2F ? I can make moose milk if you guys think I should add a small amount to my store bought patches.
LolHe's wrong.
Probably don’t want to get advice from that guy.One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?
All powders will foul the barrel. The difference is the quantity of the fouling. Swiss will foul less than GOEX, but it will leave fouling. So does Pyrodex and 777 as well as any of the synthetic powders. There may be less apparent fouling, but the fouling is still there....
One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?
One interesting way of avoiding that, I learned on here, is to pour your powder in, then the ball. THEN WIPE. I f you bust out any fouling and push it down the bore its on top of the load, not blocking anything, and gets shot out!Now, how does one deal with the fouling? Wiping between shots is one way. You do have to be careful not to push fouling into the flash channel.
yes stop wasting powder. I have a 50 cal. use 50 to 60 gr. of powder with a 350gr. max hunter bullet. at 50 to 75 yards goes through a 3 to 4 in. phonebook and the 1/4 in. plywood be hind it. more than enough to kill anything. many bison were killed from a long distance with a 45/70 blackpowerd gun.Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I think I will try 3F at about 60 grains to see what happens.
I am very knew to this and had read that 60 to 80 grains was typical. Not sure how your 350gr bullet compares to a patched round ball . I assume this is a conical bullet. I am hoping my biggest problem is that my store bought lubed patches are too dry. I ordered unlubed patches to try again.yes stop wasting powder. I have a 50 cal. use 50 to 60 gr. of powder with a 350gr. max hunter bullet. at 50 to 75 yards goes through a 3 to 4 in. phonebook and the 1/4 in. plywood be hind it. more than enough to kill anything. many bison were killed from a long distance with a 45/70 blackpowerd gun.
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