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Blown Patches

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ScottGustaveson

32 Cal.
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Jun 30, 2012
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My blown patches are about to blow my mind! My GPR was just beginning to settle down and shooting great groups when all-of-a-sudden everything began to spread. I checked my patches and as suspected I was blowing them out. 65g with .15 pillow ticking lubed with bore butter. Checked bore, ok didn't find any sticky spots,tried different patches, lighter loads.... nothing works. Any ideas??
 
I am pretty new to rifle shooting. But I can tell you what I was told.
Thicker patch. Tighter ball/patch combo.
I have been getting some patch issues myself but I tried a thicker patch today and they were not as bad as they have been, but not good enough. I need an even thicker patch.
(you can cheat it some by using an over powder wad)

Edit to add: I just saw this was your first post. Welcome to the group. The guys here really know alot of good information. Stick around.
 
In my experience GPRs, especially when new, tend to have very sharp crowns. Short term I've learned to push on the short starter, slowly adding pressure until the ball passes into the bore, rather than "slapping" the short starter. At least when my guns were new, if I slapped the short starter it would result in a cut or tear of the patch almost every time. You can check on yours simply by seating a ball, then blowing it out with a CO2 discharger and checking the patch.

The sharp edge will eventually smooth a little and the condition will go away. If you get impatient like me, press a piece of 320 wet/dry paper down on the muzzle with the ball of your thumb and rotate it a few times with even pressure.

Dunno how many shots you have through your rifle and it's recent history, so it could be sumpin else. If I understand you right this is a new condition, so something has changes, whether in your loading technique or in the bore. If you decide to try a thicker patch, try the seating method I described, because if anything, it will have more of a tendency to cut on a sharp crown if you simply slap the starter.
 
I've been reading the posts for a while now. Their knowledge humbles me. I have been shooting muzzleloaders on and off for over 25 years now, but it's been a long time since I've built one from a kit. New barrel, new problems, but they have all happened to others before.

Im hoping someone will post an idea I just have just forgotten about.
 
Welcome to the forum. :hatsoff:

A few things come to mind as possible causes of your patch problem.
1. A new batch of patches that measures different than the last batch even if they were marked the same.
2. The lube has dried out on pre-lubed patches or maybe just wasn't lubed as much as the old batch.
3. The barrel has broken in and now needs a thicker patch or bigger ball.
4. A "new" batch of patches that has been on the shelf for too long and has weakened.

,015 is too thin for any of the GPRs I have experience with (3). .020 and a .530 ball seems to work well in the .54 GPR I have now.
 
I think we are on the same page here. I just need to be patient. I refuse to buy pre-lubed patches and my wife thinks I'm weird when I take a micrometer to the fabric store. She stays far, far away.

Anyway, Figure I'll try a couple new patches, polish my crown and run some steel wool down the barrel a few times.

I'm shooting off the shelf Hornaday .530 round balls, probably need to start casting my own .535. That will be another adventure in itself. I miss the days when you stepped into a muzzleloader shop, everyone knew what you were talking about. Now you say muzzleloader and the first thing that enters their heads is in-line.

Please keep leaving suggestions as I'm sure one of them will hit the mark.

Thank you!
 
"... polish my crown and run some steel wool down the barrel a few times. ..."
:idunno:

Before you try this, try more lube. It may be as simple as more lube! :thumbsup:
 
My blown patches

Please describe what you mean, or are seeing that causes you to say your patches are "blown".
In 45+ years at this game I can honestly say I have never had a patch that I would describe as "blown". At one time I tried some thin, soft, loose woven cotton duck material. It burned and did not perform well. No others have ever given such sorry results. Not even incredibly thin airplane fabric.
I really do not understand your problem. Pics of the patches in question would help.
 
ScottG said:
I'm shooting off the shelf Hornaday .530 round balls, probably need to start casting my own .535.

If you go that route, keep us posted on the results. When my GPR was newer (like, 4,000 shots ago!) I found that the .535's were a lot too tight for my tastes with .018 ticking patches. They would work and they were accurate, but I didn't really feel like carrying a mallet in the field where I do about 98% of my shooting rather than the range.

But with use and wear my 54 has become easier to load, to the point that I jumped from .530/.015 to .530/.018 with improved accuracy and still had field-easy loading. It "seems" too easy to load with that combo these days, but I still haven't gone back to try .535 again.

Don't get me wrong- The GPR has just seemed to get more accurate over time and all that shooting, but smoothing the bore or some such has made loading progressively easier, and I can load to my field specs with slightly larger ball/patch combos. I'm projecting a little in thinking the same will happen for you.
 
I describe them as blown. They are cut around the base of the ball where it would meet the rifling. I'm guessing there is a sharp spot in the barrel somewhere.

After the ignition of the powder I'm experiencing large tears in the fabric.

I'm shooting again next week, if he problem hasn't corrected, I'll post some pics.
 
I have a late Lancaster with a .54 Getz barrel. The accuracy was always so-so, (3" at 100 yards off the bench.) until I got some felt pre-lubed wads to put over the powder. Then seated the ball and patch. I was amazed at how much the groups tightened, and it's not cheating. And no burned patches. I have not shot it off the bench since, but I can tell you that my off-hand shooting is much better.
CIMG0736.jpg

Your patches look like this? Mine don't burn anymore.
 
I think your are spot on. After reading some of the posts I realized that as I was trying different patch thicknesses, I could actually start the ball with my thumb.

Think I'm going to the fabric store today. Gonna get some dirty looks, haha. Don't you just love when the sales girl has that look in her eye and asks, "May I help you with something sir?"

Thanks for the help.
 
Hey thats what my patches look like coming out of my .50 CVA Mountain Stalker any time I load more than 55 grains of powder in it. Even with an over powder wad or corn meal it just shreds them.
Thats why I have been shooting my older rifles. I can actually put a 75-85 grain charge through them and have patches come out in one piece. I think it is because the rifleing is so sharp and crisp. (the guy I got it from said he fired it a hand full of times but the recoil was too much so he retired it almost as soon as he got it) My older rifles do not have this issue. I know that means I need to lap the barrel a bit, but I never did that before. I am a bit worried that if I do I will mess it up some how.
 
THey are Ox-Yoke Wonder Wads 1000 plus, and I get them from a ml store in Colorado Springs. I don't have any idea where you would get them unless you have a good ml store near you.
Cynthia, I was told about the lapping, too, but I was too afraid of doing that to my Getz barrel. So I'll do this for a whild. I'm now shooting .535 balls with muslin patches, and the felt wad with 90 grs. of 2F. THe muslin patches are pretty thin, I don't remember what they mike.
 
ScottG said:
. . . I realized that as I was trying different patch thicknesses, I could actually start the ball with my thumb.

That's a quality I look for in a suitable patch/lube/ball combo. :haha: Tighter may shoot better, but I try to find the best shooting combo that allows me to get by without the need of a short starter (less to carry & potentially lose) and without undue stress on my wood rammer while still giving acceptable accuracy.

My patches are 0.017" to 0.018" cotton tick around a 0.530" ball and could easily be reused.

Are you sure you're not tearing the patches when loading? Pull an unfired ball and examine the patch. It should have no tears or holes. Could be you just haven't yet worn down the sharp edges.
 
I'm thinking the same way you are. I was origionally focusing on when I was seating my load, but I bet I'm tearing them at the muzzle.
 
My remedy has become to shoot-in a sharp barrel with the patches lubed with fine silty clay. I have crawdads in the yard and they supply it free of charge.
 
Ever though of using some polishing compound, Flitz or some other product. I have used Flitz for years to polish some brass buttons. Thoughts??
 
Flitz might make it shiny or might not, but it won't move any metal to speak of. That 320 grit "paper" (actually cloth) works great for me.

BTW- This is so typical of Lyman and especially the GM drop-in barrels, I'm surprised the factories don't take a few seconds to deal with it themselves. Call it customer service, but service it would be.
 
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