Bore Butter ingredients

[45man]

Does anyone know the ingredients in T/C's Bore Butter?
I read some articles but they contradicted. One said it was beeswax, crisco, and canola oil. Another said it was beeswax, olive oil and wintergreen.
Anyone know what it is REALLY made of??
I melted some today to lube some patches and it seemed like the olive oil/beeswax recipe is about right.
I make my own lube with beeswax, crisco, and canola oil and the consistency is much different.

Huntin

Bore butter and the rest, cetyl alcohol-4.6%, white petrolatum-88.2%, unidentified mineral wax-2%, and methyl salicylate-.4%.
Notice much mineral products in the recipe. I don't like the stuff for anything.

 

[stephenprops1]

And arguing about them

I don't agree with you.

 

[kyron4]

Bore butter and the rest, cetyl alcohol-4.6%, white petrolatum-88.2%, unidentified mineral wax-2%, and methyl salicylate-.4%.
Notice much mineral products in the recipe. I don't like the stuff for anything.

Well at least is good for dry skin, burns , and rashes.

 

[Rifleman1776]

There was once a link posted with the history of BB. According to the author, BB is really just Chap Stick in another name.

 

[Riverbravo]

@Riverbravo, patch lubricant and bore protector lubricant are different things.

Using an alleged bore protector/ patch lubricant such as bore butter as a patch lubricant will leave a layer of the relatively heavy lubricant in the bore to combine with the fouling that can cause loading difficulties. For hunting that can work, but at a range or on a woods walk where you want to shoot more than two shots you need a fouling softening g patch lubricant.

Since you want to shoot multiple round and not have to wipe fouling from the bore between shots requires a wet lubricant. Mr. Flintlock lube or the mix of a water soluble oil 1 put to 5 to 7 parts of water liberally applied to the patch softens the fouling as the fouling is pushed down the barrel with the patch and ball. The moisture of the patch may dampen the powder, but not enough to adversely effect the charge.

That makes sense. I will see if I can make that homemade mixture. What do you mean by water soluble oil? Google is giving me multiple results. I just want to make sure I get the right stuff and don't add to the problem with the wrong oil.

 

[Riverbravo]

Spit.
Pop a clean dry patch in your mouth and make it wet. For the ball patch and the swab,,
I've read your old posts, you got stuck on the commercial marketing,, of course they're ALL the best,, just ask'm. Honest, each and every one of them is the best thing on the market.
The carbon/fouling deposit needs more "wet" to be controlled, and that is the issue, control of the never ending deposits from shot to shot.
Now chances are your rifles barrel already has "hard" deposits from the products you've been using. Some of that stuff is serious hard to clean out and even tougher for a new guy without a mentor standing next to ya.
Share with us how you clean the barrel after a session. There are no wrong answers because there's many ways,, but we might find a way to help ya move past these troubles if we know what you've been doing.
It's all part of the learning process, we've all been through it.
That "3 shot" thing in the shared articular was the man mocking the minute man,, and then rightfully (IMHO) casting disfavor on all the commercial products listed.
Grease bad, Water good.

You are right it's definitely easy to fall for gimmicks. I definitely haven't had the benefit of first-hand knowledge. I'm the first person in my circle of family and friends to try muzzle loading. I have been going off the plethora of information on the internet.

As far as my cleaning process goes it is as follows.
-a wet patch of black powder solvent (I believe it's made by track of the Wolf) after I take my last shot. I leave that soaking in the barrel for the drive home.
-when I get home I use a wire brush and make several passes.
-after that I use a bucket of scalding water after I remove the nipple. I send down patches till they come up clean.
-after that I send down a couple of dry patches and wipe down the outside of the barrel.
- I send down a patch of bore butter.
-finally I wipe the exterior of the barrel with bore butter being sure to get the nipple threads and replace the nipple.
If the gun sits for long periods I periodically I wipe out the old bore butter and the barrel with dry patches and replace it with fresh bore butter. I always make sure to remove the bore butter prior to shooting. Although in my first post I mentioned using bore butter as a lubricant for patches these days I am using Ox yoke. Not that it's helping but I figured that piece of information might be useful.

That is my cleaning process. I am open to any and all suggestion. I still consider myself very much a beginner and I'm definitely not too proud to ask for help or admit I don't know. I started with a Traditions Hawken which was very forgiving to these beginner errors. The gun was able to fire multiple times despite the bore butter. I guess it gave me a false sense that I was doing things correctly. Unfortunately that gun was stolen out of my car and I replaced it with a Thompson center Hawken which has not been forgiving. All the issues I've mentioned have happened with this rifle and why I'm here.

I have some other questions but I will save them for later after I hear your opinion on the cleaning process. This post has gotten long enough. Any insight you can give me would be appreciated.

 

[nhmoose]

There was once a link posted with the history of BB. According to the author, BB is really just Chap Stick in another name.

Here it is again,

I obviously borrowed it.

You have no idea how much humor has come out of Ox-Yoke's claims on the
1000 Shot Plus lube. To the point where some of us now call them
Ox-Joke. With any of my three BP rifles "an historic feat" is getting the
4th ball down the bore without resorting to a bigger hammer.
I'll run you through the full story since the snow has started to fall.
Lets go back to the early 1980's.

A shooter/buckskinner by the name of Young, living in California, went
to the range one day and forgot his patch lube. In utter desperation he
whips out a tube of Chap-Stick and smears it on a few patches. Lo &
Behold it worked better than the lube he had been using. Several of his
buddies tried his idea and reported it worked well. So Young then
tracked down the source of Chap- Stick which is a common lip balm
formulation that has been floating around since the late 19th century.
Chap-Stick is petrolatum (petroleum jelly) with 5% cetyl alcohol and
water. The cetyl alcohol acting as the emulsifyer. With the cetyl
alcohol the water forms minute beads within the petrolatum. Without the
cetyl alcohol you can't get the water to mix in any way with the
petrolatum. Huge quantities of cetyl alcohol are used in the production
of PVC emulsion resins used in kitchen flooring. (My old job was as an
R&D
Tech. on these resins.) The petrolatum is the moisture barrier and
carrier for a topical agent used to soothe chapped lips. The water
emulsified into the petrolatum reduces the drag of the "stick" when you
apply it to your lips and acts as the moisturizing agent. Young then
finds a place to buy Chap-Stick in bulk and packages it as Young Country
Arms 103 Lube. That his lube and Chap->Stick are identical in every
respect, right down to the color, suggested he simply bought from the
makers of Chap-Stick in bulk quantities. Now Ted Bottomly had started
Ox-Yoke and made pre-cut patches and packs of patch cloth. He wanted a
patch lube to round out his line. He bought the first Ox-Yoke lube from
Young. When I first saw them I was at the late C.P. Wood's house in West
Virginia. Woody was looking at a 4 ounce container
of Young Country 103 and a 3 ounce container of Ox-Yoke's patch lube.
Both were identical in every respect, including color. You paid the same
price for 3 ounces of Ox-Yoke's lube as you paid for 4 ounces of Young's
lube. The logical conclusion would be that Ox-Yoke was buying from Young
and the missing ounce was Ox-Yoke's profit on the deal.

Both were advertising their respective lubes in the magazines. Young
advertised that you could fire a hundred rounds without wiping the bore
with his lube. Three months later, Ox-Yoke would advertise that when you
used their lube you could fire 200 rounds without wiping the bore. The 3
month lag time in the mags being the lag time in getting adds scheduled.
This went on, each one upping the ante, so to speak.
Those of us connected with the Buckskin Report discussed this in letters
and thought it a great joke.

The others in the field at that time were Hodgdon with their "Spit-Patch"
which was nothing more than beeswax emulsified in water with a soap.
Then there was T/C Maxi-Lube which was nothing more than the same
petroleum grease they used to grease the bearings in their machines.
Blue and Grey products was selling an automotive wheel bearing grease
that had been pigmented, not dyed, blue. I receieved several letters from
Doc Carlson. He was seeing BP muzzleloaders come into his shop with
balls or slugs stuck in the bore just ahead of the powder charge. You
could not pull these projectiles by any normal method.
He would have to remove the breech plugs, pull the charge and beat them
out of the bore, toward the muzzle with a heavy rod and a hammer. He
described the presence of a black tar-like film in the bore where the
projectiles had been frozen in place. The common thread in this being
that the shooter had used one of the "petroleum-based" lubes. I had to
explain to Doc that the petroleum greases were nothing more than
petroleum lubricating oils that had been "bodied" by the addition of
metallic soaps such as calcium or cadmium stearate. With a petroleum
lubricating oil, or grease, anytime you heat them to a high temperature
in the presence of sulfur you get asphalt. The way asphalts were
produced was to take crude oil and sulfur in an autoclave. Heat the
mixture to 600 degrees for about 8 hours
and you had road tar. Which is about what was happening in the gun.
Since the repackaged Chap-Stick was a petroleum wax it did not form
asphalt with sulfur and high temperatures. I then wrote an article for
the Backwoodsman magazine and compared the behavior of the two Chap-Stick
lubes to the behavior of sperm whale oil when it had been used in black
powder guns.

Well, Old Ted Bottomly jumped right onto that one. three months later
he starts advertising that his lube is "all-natural, non-petroleum" and
authentic, using what our ancesters had used. At that point I figured
his parents were to Christian to call him ******* so they settled for
Bottomly. By about 1984, Bottomly and Young had a falling out over
pricing. The one ounce shy thing with Ox-Yoke pushed most of the
customers to Young's lube. Same thing, same price but more of it with
Young Country 103. And by this time we were up to 800 rounds between
swabbings. Technology marches on. Bottomy came out with his first Wonder
Lube. Years of research went into this lube, or so he claimed. Now at
this time Ox-Yoke was located in West Suffield, CT. A short time later I
was searching the drugstore shelves looking for petrolatum-based skin
care products or salves that I coulde repackage and become a millionaire
. I spotted this tube of something
called "Mineral Ice". Menthol in petrolatum. Made by a Dermatone
Laboratories located in Suffield, CT. Out comes the map. just by a
mere coincidence both companies were located just across the river from
each other. This of course raised doubts as to the "years of research"
comments out of Bottomly. The new Wonder Lube went into the lab. Proved
to be mineral oil, paraffin wax, a yellow dye and oil of wintergreen. A
book at work on fats, waxes and oils nailed this one down to a common
chest rub preparation for those with head colds who could not tolerate
camphorated oil. Again it was billed as "all-natural and non-petroleum".
Never mind that paraffin wax comes from paraffinic crude oils and mineral
oil comes from napthenic crude oils, the yellow dye and the oil of
wintergreen should convince anybody that it is all-natural and
non-petroleum. Given the wax and oil, I simply refer to this type of lube
as a remanufactured vaseline. With the yellow dye the rubes will swear
it is beeswax.

One thing about con artists is that they are never content to leave a
con artest for any length of time. In 1990, Bottomly comes out with a
new version called 1000 Shot Plus lube. High-technology now made
possible a lube that eliminated fouling, eliminated the need to clean and
would totally stop bore corrosion. Bottomly searched the world for this
modern technology and found it in Germany after years of searching. This
advance in this lube was made possible by this
secret micronizing agent. It gave the lube a micron particle size that
made all of this advancement possible. At that point his chest thumping
ego trip gave away the formula. This secret micronizing agent is no real
secret and has been around for over 100 years. It is nothing more than a
fossil wax mined in Germany. The same time of wax used to be mined in
Utah as Utah Wax but the mine closed for lack of business.
Paraffin wax is a hard brittle wax that forms huge crystals. When you
look at a block of paraffin wax sold for food canning you see lines on
the surface of the blocks of wax. Those are the lines denoting crystal
size. It had been found that if you added this fossil wax to paraffin
wax it would reduce the size of these crystals, though nowhere near a
micron in size. Paraffin wax was limited in which skin care and salve
formulations it could be used in because of the macro-crystallinty of it.
This made it unsuited to preparations where hardness and brittleness
were objectionable. By using the fossiol wax addition the paraffin wax
could replace more expensive waxes in these products. But when you lay
this type of Techno-Nonsense on a bunch of ignorant rube BP shooters they
will beat a path to your door, wallet in hand.

Now, to get back to an historic feat of 3 shots without swabbing the
bore. The problem with this type of lube is that as long as the surface
temperature of the bore is above the melting point of the wax, about 40
to 45 C, the fouling deposited by the combustion of the powder will slide
off the metal when pressure is applied to it. When the surface
temperature of the bore is below the melting point of the wax it will act
as an adhesive and hold the fouling to the surface. The unburned
charcaol in the powder fouling will adsorb most of the mineral oil
present in the lube. This turns it into an oily sludge that simply
builds up in the breech with repeated loading of the gun. After a few
rounds are fired in a flinter you have the oily sludge being blown out of
the vent which then coats the flint and frizzen. Lubricated flints
strike no sparks.
Now for the real punch line. With the addition of the micronizing agent
they doubled the amount of dye used so the new lube was more orange in
color, compared to the lemon yellow of the previous version, and they
doubled the amount of oil of wintergreen. Convince the rubes that it is
now even more natural. During the past few years there has been much
bitching about the quality of Ox-Joke's pre-lubed patches. I have seen
packs in the store where the lube had turned hard and brown. The mineral
oil migrates out of the paraffin wax into the low density polyethlene
used in the bags. This makes the lube hard and brittle. It goes back to
paraffin wax properties. With these an historic feat is getting the
second ball down the barrel without wiping. Ox-Joke supplies T/C with
Bore Butter which is only a slight modification
of Ox-Joke's standard formula.

Remember the dbate about blowing down the barrel on the message boards.
My off line joke was that as long as you use the repackaged Chap-Stick as
a patch lube you would not get chapped lips from blowing down a cold
barrel.

Then their was Uncle Mike's Apple Green patch lube. Another paraffin
wax/mineral oil lube with methylsalicin in it. Nothing more than a
repackaged arthritis salve. I can tell you that is was very effective on
a knee suffereing degenerative joint disease. So if you are going to go
out in those North Woods in winter weather to hunt the elusive whitetail
you ought to take all three lubes along. Prevent chapped lips, take care
of chest colds and arthritic joints from all of the hoofing through the
snow. No reason for you to return home in anything less than the best of
health in spite ot the weather. Might be a good idea to take along one of
the ascorbic acid-based powders since that is vitamin C. Then Goex's
sugar-based powder might make an emergency trail food.

I joke with Dixon that it is bad enough we have to deal with the ATF,
what next with these products, the Food and Drug Administration too???
Well, time to go sit out on the deck for a smoke and listen to the snow
flakes fall.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Here it is again,

I obviously borrowed it.

You have no idea how much humor has come out of Ox-Yoke's claims on the
1000 Shot Plus lube. To the point where some of us now call them
Ox-Joke. With any of my three BP rifles "an historic feat" is getting the
4th ball down the bore without resorting to a bigger hammer.
I'll run you through the full story since the snow has started to fall.
Lets go back to the early 1980's.

A shooter/buckskinner by the name of Young, living in California, went
to the range one day and forgot his patch lube. In utter desperation he
whips out a tube of Chap-Stick and smears it on a few patches. Lo &
Behold it worked better than the lube he had been using. Several of his
buddies tried his idea and reported it worked well. So Young then
tracked down the source of Chap- Stick which is a common lip balm
formulation that has been floating around since the late 19th century.
Chap-Stick is petrolatum (petroleum jelly) with 5% cetyl alcohol and
water. The cetyl alcohol acting as the emulsifyer. With the cetyl
alcohol the water forms minute beads within the petrolatum. Without the
cetyl alcohol you can't get the water to mix in any way with the
petrolatum. Huge quantities of cetyl alcohol are used in the production
of PVC emulsion resins used in kitchen flooring. (My old job was as an
R&D
Tech. on these resins.) The petrolatum is the moisture barrier and
carrier for a topical agent used to soothe chapped lips. The water
emulsified into the petrolatum reduces the drag of the "stick" when you
apply it to your lips and acts as the moisturizing agent. Young then
finds a place to buy Chap-Stick in bulk and packages it as Young Country
Arms 103 Lube. That his lube and Chap->Stick are identical in every
respect, right down to the color, suggested he simply bought from the
makers of Chap-Stick in bulk quantities. Now Ted Bottomly had started
Ox-Yoke and made pre-cut patches and packs of patch cloth. He wanted a
patch lube to round out his line. He bought the first Ox-Yoke lube from
Young. When I first saw them I was at the late C.P. Wood's house in West
Virginia. Woody was looking at a 4 ounce container
of Young Country 103 and a 3 ounce container of Ox-Yoke's patch lube.
Both were identical in every respect, including color. You paid the same
price for 3 ounces of Ox-Yoke's lube as you paid for 4 ounces of Young's
lube. The logical conclusion would be that Ox-Yoke was buying from Young
and the missing ounce was Ox-Yoke's profit on the deal.

Both were advertising their respective lubes in the magazines. Young
advertised that you could fire a hundred rounds without wiping the bore
with his lube. Three months later, Ox-Yoke would advertise that when you
used their lube you could fire 200 rounds without wiping the bore. The 3
month lag time in the mags being the lag time in getting adds scheduled.
This went on, each one upping the ante, so to speak.
Those of us connected with the Buckskin Report discussed this in letters
and thought it a great joke.

The others in the field at that time were Hodgdon with their "Spit-Patch"
which was nothing more than beeswax emulsified in water with a soap.
Then there was T/C Maxi-Lube which was nothing more than the same
petroleum grease they used to grease the bearings in their machines.
Blue and Grey products was selling an automotive wheel bearing grease
that had been pigmented, not dyed, blue. I receieved several letters from
Doc Carlson. He was seeing BP muzzleloaders come into his shop with
balls or slugs stuck in the bore just ahead of the powder charge. You
could not pull these projectiles by any normal method.
He would have to remove the breech plugs, pull the charge and beat them
out of the bore, toward the muzzle with a heavy rod and a hammer. He
described the presence of a black tar-like film in the bore where the
projectiles had been frozen in place. The common thread in this being
that the shooter had used one of the "petroleum-based" lubes. I had to
explain to Doc that the petroleum greases were nothing more than
petroleum lubricating oils that had been "bodied" by the addition of
metallic soaps such as calcium or cadmium stearate. With a petroleum
lubricating oil, or grease, anytime you heat them to a high temperature
in the presence of sulfur you get asphalt. The way asphalts were
produced was to take crude oil and sulfur in an autoclave. Heat the
mixture to 600 degrees for about 8 hours
and you had road tar. Which is about what was happening in the gun.
Since the repackaged Chap-Stick was a petroleum wax it did not form
asphalt with sulfur and high temperatures. I then wrote an article for
the Backwoodsman magazine and compared the behavior of the two Chap-Stick
lubes to the behavior of sperm whale oil when it had been used in black
powder guns.

Well, Old Ted Bottomly jumped right onto that one. three months later
he starts advertising that his lube is "all-natural, non-petroleum" and
authentic, using what our ancesters had used. At that point I figured
his parents were to Christian to call him ******* so they settled for
Bottomly. By about 1984, Bottomly and Young had a falling out over
pricing. The one ounce shy thing with Ox-Yoke pushed most of the
customers to Young's lube. Same thing, same price but more of it with
Young Country 103. And by this time we were up to 800 rounds between
swabbings. Technology marches on. Bottomy came out with his first Wonder
Lube. Years of research went into this lube, or so he claimed. Now at
this time Ox-Yoke was located in West Suffield, CT. A short time later I
was searching the drugstore shelves looking for petrolatum-based skin
care products or salves that I coulde repackage and become a millionaire
. I spotted this tube of something
called "Mineral Ice". Menthol in petrolatum. Made by a Dermatone
Laboratories located in Suffield, CT. Out comes the map. just by a
mere coincidence both companies were located just across the river from
each other. This of course raised doubts as to the "years of research"
comments out of Bottomly. The new Wonder Lube went into the lab. Proved
to be mineral oil, paraffin wax, a yellow dye and oil of wintergreen. A
book at work on fats, waxes and oils nailed this one down to a common
chest rub preparation for those with head colds who could not tolerate
camphorated oil. Again it was billed as "all-natural and non-petroleum".
Never mind that paraffin wax comes from paraffinic crude oils and mineral
oil comes from napthenic crude oils, the yellow dye and the oil of
wintergreen should convince anybody that it is all-natural and
non-petroleum. Given the wax and oil, I simply refer to this type of lube
as a remanufactured vaseline. With the yellow dye the rubes will swear
it is beeswax.

One thing about con artists is that they are never content to leave a
con artest for any length of time. In 1990, Bottomly comes out with a
new version called 1000 Shot Plus lube. High-technology now made
possible a lube that eliminated fouling, eliminated the need to clean and
would totally stop bore corrosion. Bottomly searched the world for this
modern technology and found it in Germany after years of searching. This
advance in this lube was made possible by this
secret micronizing agent. It gave the lube a micron particle size that
made all of this advancement possible. At that point his chest thumping
ego trip gave away the formula. This secret micronizing agent is no real
secret and has been around for over 100 years. It is nothing more than a
fossil wax mined in Germany. The same time of wax used to be mined in
Utah as Utah Wax but the mine closed for lack of business.
Paraffin wax is a hard brittle wax that forms huge crystals. When you
look at a block of paraffin wax sold for food canning you see lines on
the surface of the blocks of wax. Those are the lines denoting crystal
size. It had been found that if you added this fossil wax to paraffin
wax it would reduce the size of these crystals, though nowhere near a
micron in size. Paraffin wax was limited in which skin care and salve
formulations it could be used in because of the macro-crystallinty of it.
This made it unsuited to preparations where hardness and brittleness
were objectionable. By using the fossiol wax addition the paraffin wax
could replace more expensive waxes in these products. But when you lay
this type of Techno-Nonsense on a bunch of ignorant rube BP shooters they
will beat a path to your door, wallet in hand.

Now, to get back to an historic feat of 3 shots without swabbing the
bore. The problem with this type of lube is that as long as the surface
temperature of the bore is above the melting point of the wax, about 40
to 45 C, the fouling deposited by the combustion of the powder will slide
off the metal when pressure is applied to it. When the surface
temperature of the bore is below the melting point of the wax it will act
as an adhesive and hold the fouling to the surface. The unburned
charcaol in the powder fouling will adsorb most of the mineral oil
present in the lube. This turns it into an oily sludge that simply
builds up in the breech with repeated loading of the gun. After a few
rounds are fired in a flinter you have the oily sludge being blown out of
the vent which then coats the flint and frizzen. Lubricated flints
strike no sparks.
Now for the real punch line. With the addition of the micronizing agent
they doubled the amount of dye used so the new lube was more orange in
color, compared to the lemon yellow of the previous version, and they
doubled the amount of oil of wintergreen. Convince the rubes that it is
now even more natural. During the past few years there has been much
bitching about the quality of Ox-Joke's pre-lubed patches. I have seen
packs in the store where the lube had turned hard and brown. The mineral
oil migrates out of the paraffin wax into the low density polyethlene
used in the bags. This makes the lube hard and brittle. It goes back to
paraffin wax properties. With these an historic feat is getting the
second ball down the barrel without wiping. Ox-Joke supplies T/C with
Bore Butter which is only a slight modification
of Ox-Joke's standard formula.

Remember the dbate about blowing down the barrel on the message boards.
My off line joke was that as long as you use the repackaged Chap-Stick as
a patch lube you would not get chapped lips from blowing down a cold
barrel.

Then their was Uncle Mike's Apple Green patch lube. Another paraffin
wax/mineral oil lube with methylsalicin in it. Nothing more than a
repackaged arthritis salve. I can tell you that is was very effective on
a knee suffereing degenerative joint disease. So if you are going to go
out in those North Woods in winter weather to hunt the elusive whitetail
you ought to take all three lubes along. Prevent chapped lips, take care
of chest colds and arthritic joints from all of the hoofing through the
snow. No reason for you to return home in anything less than the best of
health in spite ot the weather. Might be a good idea to take along one of
the ascorbic acid-based powders since that is vitamin C. Then Goex's
sugar-based powder might make an emergency trail food.

I joke with Dixon that it is bad enough we have to deal with the ATF,
what next with these products, the Food and Drug Administration too???
Well, time to go sit out on the deck for a smoke and listen to the snow
flakes fall.

Thanks for that reminder. I also was involved with John Baird's Buckskin Report magazine. That is certainly where I first read your info on BB. About the only good thing I have to say about BB is their marketing is genius. Many people still buy it thinking it is the greatest gift possible to muzzle loading.

 

[buckleymarka56]

On April 11, 2004, Roundball wrote the 3 most important aspects of rust prevention. #1 Completely clean. #2 Completely dry. #3 Completely lubed. If all 3 are done, Bore Butter will prevent rust, as shown by my several BP guns and our hot humid summers. Not a spot of rust to be found. I am, however, very anal/OCD about the clean/dry/lubed thing, so there's that.

Since the 70s when my dad and I built my first CVA 45 cal Kentucky long rifle. I have always used Dawn and hot water. Scrub it with a brass brush. Run patches through it until they are clean. More brushing if necessary. More patches. Until dry and clean, I use triple 7. Cleans a lot easier. I wet a patch with guns. Oil and run it down the barrel..

Cover the lock with an elbow. And hang them back on the wall.
Been using prelubed patches for years.
Experimenting with bore butter on Patches.
Used a white cotton the wife had some scraps of.
Will try it and see.
But I also have 3 , 15 round loaded blocks.

 

[nit wit]

I used to clean with hot water and then bore buttered the barrel. Always got rust!
Nit Wit

 

[UndeadPoet]

That makes sense. I will see if I can make that homemade mixture. What do you mean by water soluble oil? Google is giving me multiple results. I just want to make sure I get the right stuff and don't add to the problem with the wrong oil.

I think Ballistol is basically a water-soluble oil.

 

[TDM]

If you don’t want to make your mix, just use TOW mink oil and be done with it.

 

[aussie pete]

Mind, I'm not a mathematician .

Pete

 

[UndeadPoet]

Mind, I'm not a mathematician .

Pete

View attachment 223764

Thank goodness it isn’t “Boar’s Milk.” I can’t imagine trying to milk one. Moose are bad enough…

 

[AlexB]

I have been using a beeswax,lard and olive oil blend that seems to work pretty well.

 

[hbasajaun]

Soy nuevo en lubricantes de parches, hoy trato de mezclar cera de abeja, cera de vaca y ballistol, para mis parches.
Any more recetas? Thanks

 

[Kalel]

========================================================

I would tend to say that.....
beeswax
olive oil
neatsfoot
paraffin
wintergreen
.... is Bore Butter/Wonderlube 1000

Products like Bore Butter/Wonderlube 1000 (almost identical) are not on my recommended list because they harm your barrel should you make a gun-storing cleaning mistake & nobody reading this reply outside of my wife is perfect.

Buy products that displace moisture from your barrel. Buy products that say "prevent rust" ... not "inhibits rust".

Yes.. I use Bore Butter/Wonderlube 1000 as a patch and bullet lube when nothing else is available. Your muzzleloader bores should be stored in the same manner as your rimfire, centerfire, shotgun, pistol ... etc bores -- with a good gun oil. Nowadays, sabot/bullets are a little easier to load than the original ones of 10-20 years ago. Back then, a slippery bore was almost a must for the ML/BP shooter using sabots. That's no longer the case today. Here are a couple of alternative patch & bullet lubes I recommend.

Click Here For "Homemade Lube"

Click Here For "Young Country Lube 103"

I 100% agree with this. I heard it was mostly Beeswax, olive oil and a bit of wintergreen

 

[buckleymarka56]

That's exactly what I used, olive oil, bees wax and a few drops of wintergreen oil.

Question is , what consistency?
Mine is not real hard.

I even thought about melting some and running a piece of pillow fabric. Through it.
I sit in the evenings and pre lube patches.

 

[Frontier's]

Beeswax and olive oil are too expensive for them to use.

 

[Kalel]

Best idea would be to buy some real borebutter. Take a sample and send it to a lab so they can run it through the chromatography machine and they can tell you exactly what it consists of. This process isn't expensive at all. It's your best bet if you really want to know. I'm surprised no one has done this yet.