Bore Butter ingredients

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Wow ! talk about a necro-thread.

ThreadNecro.jpg
 
:thumb: Ya did a Good job though. I always advocate to research the archives.
The knowledge and experience shared here in all these years would fill many volumes of encyclopedia.
I completely agree. It would be great of more people dug back and sought older information and answers. It would be really great if something could be put into the forum software that prompted the user to start a new thread, with a reference and link to the old one,,, when trying to reply to a topic that is a certain age.
 
Natural Lube 1000 is the only thing I've put in the bores of my muzzleloaders for the past 15 years...starting in the late 80's with a Knight inline...then through and including a number of TC Hawken percussions & flintlocks, using both Pyrodex and Goex.

They're all still as clean as the day I bought them...the bore problems people complain about come from a bore not being:
1) 100% completely clean
2) 100% completely dried
3) 100% completely lubed
If #1 and #2 are done properly, any lube will do to prevent rust...but I'll keep using NL 1000 because not only is it a good a good bore lube, it's my maxi-hunter lube, it's an excellent patch lube, and it lets me shoot all day without wiping between shots...
Same here, Natural lube 1000.I clean with soap and water. Pour the water right from a boiling kettle. Run a brush through, then soaked patches until they come out clean. A few dry patches, then a few patches with G96 gun treatment until they come out spotless. Few dry patches then finally a patch with a light coat of G96. Soak the nipple in G96 while I’m cleaning the barrel, clean it all out and screw it back on the barrel. Light coat of G96 on all the metal and done. Been working for me for years, guns stay spotless. Weird part is I kind of enjoy cleaning them, satisfaction of a nice clean, polished gun at the end I guess.
 
I picked up a "wax" ring at Home Depot today for $.68 and as Claude said it is soft and sticky.
Real beeswax is hard.
I was thinking about melting the ring and mixing with olive oil to see what I end up with.
I am trying to find out exactly what the ring is made of.

Huntin
bat wing lard from Whuhan/Ed
 
I'm going to charge up the paddles and resurrect this thread from the dead once again.

I read the article attached to one of the posts above this one and was left with the impression that everything I know is wrong. There was a lot of information to process in the article. It doesn't help that I have a mild learning disability that causes me to get overwhelmed when presented with lots of information. Fortunately online forums such as this are helpful tools for coping.

The article presented many wrong ways. My question is what is a good patch lubricant/bore protector?

I have tried bore butter, ox-yoke, and wonder lube and get severe fouling with each. The fouling is so bad I have to wipe the bore after every shot or I run the risk of the ball getting stuck before it seats properly. The fouling gets so bad after one shot that at times the patch I send down the barrel to swab gets stuck. When this happens I have to use the pliers on my Leatherman to grip the ramrod to get enough purchase to break it free. For the record I am using goex black powder exclusively and still having these problems.

What can I use that will allow me to get the three shots he was talking about in the article? I would even settle for two. At present I am lucky if I get seven shots off during a range session of about an hour because so much time is spent cleaning between shots.
 
Check around. We have a company in the next building that produces cosmetics. They use pure cosmetics grade [what ever that is] yellow beeswax. I just go and ask for some and get a few pounds for free.
 
@Riverbravo, patch lubricant and bore protector lubricant are different things.

Using an alleged bore protector/ patch lubricant such as bore butter as a patch lubricant will leave a layer of the relatively heavy lubricant in the bore to combine with the fouling that can cause loading difficulties. For hunting that can work, but at a range or on a woods walk where you want to shoot more than two shots you need a fouling softening g patch lubricant.

Since you want to shoot multiple round and not have to wipe fouling from the bore between shots requires a wet lubricant. Mr. Flintlock lube or the mix of a water soluble oil 1 put to 5 to 7 parts of water liberally applied to the patch softens the fouling as the fouling is pushed down the barrel with the patch and ball. The moisture of the patch may dampen the powder, but not enough to adversely effect the charge.
 
What can I use that will allow me to get the three shots he was talking about in the article?
Spit.
Pop a clean dry patch in your mouth and make it wet. For the ball patch and the swab,,
I've read your old posts, you got stuck on the commercial marketing,, of course they're ALL the best,, just ask'm. Honest, each and every one of them is the best thing on the market.
The carbon/fouling deposit needs more "wet" to be controlled, and that is the issue, control of the never ending deposits from shot to shot.
Now chances are your rifles barrel already has "hard" deposits from the products you've been using. Some of that stuff is serious hard to clean out and even tougher for a new guy without a mentor standing next to ya.
Share with us how you clean the barrel after a session. There are no wrong answers because there's many ways,, but we might find a way to help ya move past these troubles if we know what you've been doing.
It's all part of the learning process, we've all been through it.
That "3 shot" thing in the shared articular was the man mocking the minute man,, and then rightfully (IMHO) casting disfavor on all the commercial products listed.
Grease bad, Water good.
 
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