Bought a Manton 10 gauge this morning and I gots some questions

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I've been keeping my eye out for a 12 bore SXS but this Manton (I'm certain it's a knockoff) 10 is in great shape, and a decent price. Got a boatload of nitro/overshot/fiber wads in the deal so I'm ready to go, but first I'm in need of knowledge...

1. What are the common choke diameters for 10 gauge? I put a micrometer to both muzzles and the read right at .800", larger than the nominal .775 10 gauge bore. There is some sort of stamp on the top of the left barrel but I can't make out what it means.

2. Speaking of proof marks, how do I read these on the bottom of the barrels?

3. Load data? The club has an informal monthly clay shoot, which I'm planning to use it for. I've also got an interest in possibly using it for rabbit/squirrel and perhaps a turkey if I get a chance. I've got 50 pounds of #5 shot and a friend had offered me a half bag of #7 1/2 from his reloading stash. Looking for something effective on game but easy on the shoulder.

Thanks in advance guys!
 
I’ve used my 10 gauge for everything from Doves & Quail, Pheasants…Geese was big on my list. The 10 gauge is probably the most versatile of smoothbores.

But I want to see an image of your gun…
 
I’ve used my 10 gauge for everything from Doves & Quail, Pheasants…Geese was big on my list. The 10 gauge is probably the most versatile of smoothbores.

But I want to see an image of your gun…
 

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That is a beautiful gun…wow.

Here are my loads, my gun is not choked, both bores are cylinder bore.

Dove & Quail load
74 grains ffg, Nitro Card, same volume #8 shot, Over Shot Card

Rabbit & Squirrel Load
74 grains ffg, Nitro Card, same volume #6 or #5 shot (or even a duplex of both), Over Shot Card

Pheasant Load
80 grains ffg, Nitro Card, 95 grain volume of #5 shot (115 grain volume steel #4 if they are lifting at distance), Over Shot Card

Goose Load
95 grains ffg, Nitro Card, 1/2 fibre wad lubed with BeesWax/Lambs Tallow, 125 steel “T” shot, Over Shot Card

Killed a lot of game with those loads…enjoy
 
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I would not use steel shot in any vintage gun, and I would only use steel shot in a modern made muzzleloader if I had the propor steel rated shot cups and no other alternative like lead, bismuth, etc.
 
Birmingham proof marks no Manton, typical sort sent to US big ugly too much drop ..Steel shot ? forget it stay with lead . Might I strongly advise .
The English sportsman sought a gun he could carry all day and leaned into the stock .while the US sportsman would seem to stalk up and bladder as many birds as he could from a bolt upright stance like he was shooting a rifle . Or so the guns themselves tell us . I once examined a double BL by J D Dougal with his lock fast breech evidently made for the US tastes heavy as lead.. I being English I go for the wand like quality's of the guns made for that market . What you do is up to you.
Rudyard
 
Afraid it is not a Manton , Birmingham made for the export market but if the gun is in good condition use it and enjoy it, for a 10 bore I would recommend for game pheasants etc a volume load of 3 drms FFg powder to 1.1/4 oz of 5or 6 shot and for doves 7,1.2 shot Take all game at a average of 30 to 35 yards for a clean kill, taking extra-long shots will be wasting both powder and shot . Good shooting
Feltwad
 
This looks like a nice one. I have been using a 10 ga. for a while. For clays the load has been 2 3/4 drams of 777 and a 1 1/8th ounce of 7 1/2 shot. It is a 12 ga. load but works well in a 10 for clays. I prefer to use 777 in the original guns because it is easier to clean. Good luck.
 
Afraid it is not a Manton , Birmingham made for the export market but if the gun is in good condition use it and enjoy it, for a 10 bore I would recommend for game pheasants etc a volume load of 3 drms FFg powder to 1.1/4 oz of 5or 6 shot and for doves 7,1.2 shot Take all game at a average of 30 to 35 yards for a clean kill, taking extra-long shots will be wasting both powder and shot . Good shooting
Feltwad
I was pretty sure it wasn't an original Manton when I bought it, the locks and hammers were different but the overall condition of the gun for its age is incredible. Someone took good care of this one.

Primary use for this is going to be the monthly club clay shoots, though I suck as a wing shooter. It will definitely end up taking a few bunnies out of the blackberries in my pasture this Winter and maybe a turkey if we can get one called into the public land I hunt.
 
'Urban legend'? does steel compress ? No look at fired shot you might get in a cooked rabbit its dented & flatted by the other shot & contact with the barrel. Lead gives Steel dosnt..wheres the urban legend it that ? Do you load your blunderbuss with hands full of pebbles & brocken glass ? another' urban ledgend.'
Rudyard
 
This looks like a nice one. I have been using a 10 ga. for a while. For clays the load has been 2 3/4 drams of 777 and a 1 1/8th ounce of 7 1/2 shot. It is a 12 ga. load but works well in a 10 for clays. I prefer to use 777 in the original guns because it is easier to clean. Good luck.
I too use the same load in all of my 6, 10 gauges. recoil is not a problem with it. and clean up is about 4 patches.
 
I also use this load in my break open ones, with 10 gauge brass hulls. from TOTW, very pricy but what isn't today. at the range the PARKER hulls rely raise eyebrows!
 
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