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brake cleaner or alcohol

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canuck4570

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I and a friend where talking about cleaning our muzzleloader ether after shooting to remove the powder fowling or before to remove the protective oil that we put to store the gun.....
he personally uses BRAKE CLEANER,
Is this a good idea ?


an other question for you, what king of alcohol do you use to remove the protective oil that you use just before shooting your muzzleloader rubbing or the regular kind ?
 
I use brakecleaner to remove water after cleaning. It won't hurt the metal, justs removes all traces of oil so be sure to run an oily patch down afterwards.

Before I shoot I just run a clean patch down the barrel. There's not much oil in the bore to worry about. GW
 
Brake cleaner is not going to be good for removing powder fouling. It'll get the oil out easily though. I just use 91% rubbing alcohol for getting the oil out before firing.
 
Brake cleaner can effect your central nervous system if enough is absorbed into your skin.Its nasty stuff and you run a high risk over time.Rubing alkey,70 or 90 % is what most use.Denatured cost more and has no water in it.All 3 are very flamable.
 
I just snap a cap and run a dry patch through before shooting. That's the only prep needed.

HD
 
Huntin Dawg said:
I just snap a cap and run a dry patch through before shooting. That's the only prep needed.

HD
correct me if I am wrong I was told that if you run only a dry patch through before shooting it does not remove ( in my case the wd 40 ) that I use before storing my muzzleloader and upon shooting will cook a nasty deposit in the barrel causing rapid fowling in the following shots !
 
I personally use EverClear. 95% alcohol, and what's left over is great for passing around the camp fire at night after all the guns are put away. :rotf:
 
Mongrain Michel said:
Huntin Dawg said:
I just snap a cap and run a dry patch through before shooting. That's the only prep needed.

HD
correct me if I am wrong I was told that if you run only a dry patch through before shooting it does not remove ( in my case the wd 40 ) that I use before storing my muzzleloader and upon shooting will cook a nasty deposit in the barrel causing rapid fowling in the following shots !
Your source is notorious for unreliable information. I use nothing but water to clean with. run a dry patch up and down the bore before you shoot...most of the time I just shoot and don't worry about it. No problems from fouling.
 
Left long enough, the thinners in WD40 dry out, and leave behind a congealed( varnish like) substance, that does not burn easily. You can remove it by spraying or rubbing in more WD40, or by flushing the bore with alcohol. I had a modern revolver that got gummed up with WD40, and learned my lesson. I still use the stuff, and recommend it for certain uses, but there are better fluids and oils to use for storing firearms. Take a Look at the BirchWood Casey " sheathe", as a storing compound.

I get away using Young Country 101 Lube( now under other brand names) for storing my guns, but the guns stay in a cool dry closet, in an air conditioned environment. How you store your guns, and what kinds of things you have to do to maintain them depends largely on where you live, what temperature you experience, and what Humidity you have during the year. If you live hear Salt Water, you have additional concerns. So, before giving too much credence to me, or to anyone else about how to store a gun, and what to use to keep it from rusting, take a look at where the poster lives. Consult the internet weather maps to find out what kind of temperature range, and humidity the poster experiences. It does make a difference on advice.

I have a slight advantage in that my twin brother lives in Tallahassee, Florida, and used to live in Gainesville, Florida, and in Fairfax, Va. He had different storage concerns living in each location, and they differ somewhat from what I experience here in East Central Illinois. I often consult him before giving advice to some one who lives in a humid environment like he does. Its not uncommon for him to be shooting in 90 Degree+ heat, and 80% relative humidity by late morning, most of the year.
 
I don't claim to know if if it does or doesn't but I've never given it much thought. I run 2 or 3 dry patches down the bore, push a pipe cleaner through the vent hole and use alcohol to wipe the pan and frizzen. I've been doing this for years. My bore remains bright and shiny, loads and shoots fine. IMHO the oil thing is just more "conventional wisdom" that withers under the bright light of controlled experimentation.
 
for storage oil should I stay away from oil derived from petrol and use other like vegetable oil?
some products are hard to come by here in Canada
 
a couple of bore mops and some windsheild washer fluid.
I use a thin application of vaseline or lanolin or bore butter whichever I have on hand for storage rust prevention, vaseline does good it will easily come off when rubbed with a cotton ball or flannel rag damp with WD40.
if I'm close to hunting saeason I use alcohol as a wipe down after the WD - it smells highly.
 
you are of great help thank you
here there are not to many who shoot muzzleloader and since I registered has a member on muzzleloading forum I have learned more in a few years then my previous 10 years shooting black powder......
 
A patch wet with some Rusty Duck followed by a dry patch gets my bore ready for some range work. When I get ready to store my rifles, I run a patch with some Bore Butter on it through the bore. Don't know about anybody else, but it works for me. :grin: I store my guns in a climate controlled gun safe so corrosion is not so much of a problem with me. I have found that using Renaissance Wax on the outer surfaces (metal and wood) of my gun has been an excellent way of controling exterior corrosion problems. Never use it in the bore, though. :nono: :shake: This is my technique and it has worked extremely well ever since Bore Butter and Renaissance Wax were invented.....or at least as long as I have known about them. :thumbsup:
 
You should be able to order Bore Butter, or Wonderlube from any mail order supplier, listed here, under "Links", at the top of the index page.

At home, use Olive oil or any other vegetable oil to lube patches, etc.

Ballistol can be ordered, and if that is hard to get, use plain old Mineral oil. Ballistol is mineral oil with some cleaning additives to remove Mercury residue from the old Mercury primers used in WWI. A lot of members mix vegetable oils, or mineral oil( Ballistol) with melted Beeswax- available from local beekeepers.

Dutch Schoultz
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

has a recommendation for a patch lube that consists of ballistol thinned with water( or Water soluable oil thinned with water) in a 1 part oil to 5-7( your choice) parts water. You dip the patching material in strips into the mix, and then lay the strips out flat on a cookie sheet-maybe use some wax paper under the strips to save the cookie sheet from rust-- and let the strips dry. The water helps the oil spread evenly throughout the fabric, then evaporates, leaving a " dry patch lube". Really, just thinned oil. But it works for patching.

There are all kinds of vegetable oils available in the cooking section of your grocery store. The Ballistol can be obtained from hardware stores, and the mineral oil from Pharmacies, and groceries. I see beeswax, at various prices, in grocery, pharmacy, hobby, and health food stores. Sometimes its sold by the bee keepers at the Saturday town "markets" set up in communities to allow local farmers to sell fruits and vegetables to the town people.

If you find someone selling honey, ask them about beeswax. Often you can get it for free, if you don't mind straining the crud out of it.

Use a pan for the wax to melt in, but put the pan in a larger pan with water in the larger one, to act as a double boiler arrangement. This keeps the wax from getting too hot, and smoking or even burning. If you use coffee filters in your pot, use the filters in a strainer and pour the molten beeswax through the filter. Everything that is not wax will be left in the filter.

Some members mix beeswax with oils in a 50/50 ratio for a patch lube. Basically if the temperature outside is cold, you probably want to make the lube softer so you add a bit more oil. If its hot out, then add a bit more wax to the mix. Its not a rocket science. We have been lubing patches with saliva for more than 500 years, and if saliva works, then begetable oil can't be that bad!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mongrain Michel said:
Huntin Dawg said:
I just snap a cap and run a dry patch through before shooting. That's the only prep needed.

HD
correct me if I am wrong I was told that if you run only a dry patch through before shooting it does not remove ( in my case the wd 40 ) that I use before storing my muzzleloader and upon shooting will cook a nasty deposit in the barrel causing rapid fowling in the following shots !

I protect my barrel with Rem-Oil. I never have a problem such as you described.

The only reason I even pop a cap is to clear any oil from the nipple and breech. I swab to remove anything the cap blows out.

HD
 
How about both :haha: .
Much like paul said it depends on how it's stored. I use 3 different storage/clean-up lubes. LPS 3 for long term storage. Hoppes #9 for just a week or two, and borebutter for over night or just a few days.
If it's just over night or a few day's at a rondy' I'll use the BB and then I just run a couple dry patches down an back.
If I use the Hoppes then I'll use brake cleaner on a few patches to get the oil out and 91% Iso or denatured alchohol on a few apatches just to prove it's clean,(aka: white patch comes out white!).
If it's long term and I use LPS 3, I'll spray the bore and breach well with brake cleaner and several patches with the stuff followed by alky patches to be sure it's clean.
Paricular care should be taken in the breech/nipple area as this is where the channel is smallest and most suseptible to fowling. By all means ALL oil's need to be removed as bp and oil become a tar like substance after firing.
I alway's clean with warm soapy water and clean warm water to flush, after a few patches to sop up water, I rinse with 91% iso or denatured to remove water at the miro level and dry patches then lube.
Does this sound like too much? Not really, the hole process take 5 maybe 10 minutes.
 

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