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AKHammonds

32 Cal
Joined
Nov 14, 2023
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Location
Morgan Hill California
Hi-
Brand new to black powder, just got my uberti new model army today. Before I take it out i want to clean all the shipping oil off the gun. Some of the you tube vids I watched took the gun completely apart and cleaned all the parts internal and external. Others just cleaned the outside, barrel, chambers and nipples. Which should I be doing, I will admit I am not looking forward to complete disassembly, but I will if I need to. With your experiences which is best?
 
Congrats on your new piece! Take it all apart and get to knowing it and understanding how it all works while cleaning it. Thats something you’re going to be doing often. Have fun and good luck.
 
You don't have to take it all apart before you shoot it, but at some point (fairly soon) you really should learn how. As far as firearm disassembly / reassembly goes, the cap n' ball revolvers are, on the whole, fairly easy. If at some point in the process you get stuck, just pause, come here and ask. Be sure you have proper tools. I'm sure one or more of the videos you watched covered that. Good luck and have fun shooting!!
 
Yes as wiscoaster said proper tools are necessary. If you don’t have screwdrivers for guns get a set. Regular screwdrivers will likely ruin the rather soft screws they use on these guns. Oh yeah welcome and have fun!
 
The Remington "1858" New Model Army is an excellent choice for a first black powder revolver, whether a Pietta or Uberti. I have a few of both, and the older Pietta's, while not quite as well finished, are still just as reliable. I prefer Colt repros for their looks and handling, but they just are not as reliable as the Remington design. I know sone highly skilled folks who make a lot of mods to the Colts (replacement nipples, polishing action, cap rakes, action covers, etc.), and they can be nearly as functional as a Remington straight from the box. But that is not a desirable trait for a first time user.

In my Uberti's, I find that perform better with a slightly larger ball, either .454 or my preferred .457. I use 30 grains (volume) of 3f or sub equivalent, for normal shooting, and for a little more oomph, I increase that to 35 grains. Works great for me. I don't mess with fillers, even though some excellent shooters do with impressive results. Learn to take your revolver apart, it is quite easy using proper tools, and it will enable you to clean it thoroughly. Remington #10 caps are the best fit on my revolvers, but good luck finding them. For normal shooting, I use #11's pinched a little bit, and save my diminishing supply of Remington #10's for situations where ultimate reliability is wanted. Even so, I have never had a problem using #11's, and in 47 years of shooting cap and ball revolvers, have never had a chain fire (knock on wood). You will soon be hooked, and will be getting more revolvers. My personal favorite is the .36 1851 Navy, which I shoot more than all my other revolvers combined.
 
Welcome to the black powder addiction. I, too, have a Uberti New Army! Mine's in .44.

You are definitely off to a good start and approaching the sport with the right mindset if you are coming here and asking questions about maintenance and disassembly.

I, personally, suggest doing a full disassembly and cleaning. This will not only ensure you've got the gun fully stripped of its packing oil and lubed back up, but it will also familiarize you with the components and how they go together. It's not terribly difficult.

As PastorB said, I have found that my .44 Ubertis (to include my New Army) shoot best with .457" round ball. Don't know whether yours is a .44 or a .36 (or even, truthfully, whether Uberti makes a .36 New Army).
 
Welcome to the forum. You need to give the barrel and cylinder a good cleaning from all of the oils put on them at factory. Make sure nipples are clear. Pipe cleaners work good, canned air or a air compressor free of moisture in its tank can be used to clear them also. As far as the internals, if you are familiar with the Remington single action and how it works, you could do a full disassembly, if you're not, well remorse could happen as a single action can be pretty finicky. Installing something wrong could bind things up or worse yet damage something. I've heard of that happening.

After removing the barrel and cylinder, find some step by step procedure online or maybe in a book you have on Remington's. Remove the grips and the trigger guard. I've heard of crud, metal filings, and such in the internals of our Italian made reproductions that can hinder action and/or cause unneeded wear. If all looks good when looking at assembled action parts, take a pressurized can of gun parts cleaner (I use brake cleaner also) and spray the be-geebers out of the guts inside of the frame. Either use canned air or if ya have one, an air compressor to blow it out and dry. Oil the parts where things rub together, ya can even grease some areas. Where and how can be found online and in the archives of this forum section. I've seen pictures and directions on a number of posts.

If you have proper screw drivers to fit screw slots, check the screw holding what is called the trigger/bolt spring to make sure it's tight. I had a new Colt once that had this screw loose. It can be seen (trigger guard off) if you have frame upside down, sort of a split leaf spring towards the front inside of the frame. In fact give all screws a check. I've seen some come NIB a bit loose. There's a small pinned roller on the bottom of the hammer that makes contact with the hammer spring. Give it a drop of oil. There is a proper way for disassembly/assembly of a Remington revolver. If you can find it online or wherever, it makes 'for a more harmonious outcome'.

You'll read of shooters filing/stoning parts for smoother action. If all seems well as far as timing on your revolver, refrain from this for a while. It's better to do alot of shooting with it before any action work is done, then you can inspect parts to see where work may needs to be done. Most/some revolvers may never need any and are better left alone. Allow just the natural action of the parts to work together for awhile, that will smooth things up, but also show you later what may need to be done. Alot of info in the archives of the forum. Check also if wanted the Gunsmithing, Dark Side, and SCORRS (Remington guns only) sections of CAS CITY gun forum, alot of good info there on shooting and taking care of cap and ball revolvers. Good shooting-ask ifin ya have any questions.

.
 
I have 3 1858's and just purchased another one in stainless. IMPO you should strip the gun down for a through cleaning. Some new guns are very clean while others may have grit or filings inside from machining. Unless there are obvious large burrs I don't believe in stoning and polishing new parts. If you shoot a lot they will wear in to a proper mating. No need to impose premature wear on your new gun. Disassembly is not hard. Follow the advice given by others in this thread.
 
Don't know whether yours is a .44 or a .36 (or even, truthfully, whether Uberti makes a .36 New Army).
They did, I have it. 1971 imported by Lyman, 6.5” barrel. Never been loaded or fired, mint, never for sale. The deepest black finish you ever seen. Ignore the weird blue picture, it’s the lighting.
The Lyman Rems were the best of them all. Or so I’ve been told.
 

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They did, I have it. 1971 imported by Lyman, 6.5” barrel. Never been loaded or fired, mint, never for sale. The deepest black finish you ever seen. The Lyman Rems were the best of them all. Or so I’ve been told.

Have heard the same thing a number of times about the Uberti made Lyman's being one of the best made Remington copies ever available. Was going to get one of each caliber back in the day but opted for a new vehicle at the time.
 
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