Brass framed Colts

[Stephen_D]

I like the look of the brass framed Colt revolvers, and they're less expensive. Do they really shoot loose due to the malleability of the brass? Anyone experienced it first hand?

 

[Norinco]

Most of the brass framed revolver owners will tell you that unless you load a ridiculous amount of powder in there, they will last long enough.

 

[Zonie]

They will last a long time if moderate powder loads are used in them.

Full powder loads can cause a problem though.

It usually isn't due to the cylinder arbor coming loose (although this has happened) but rather it is due to the brass supporting the cylinder at the rear being Brinnelled or displaced by the cylinder recoiling into it when the shot is fired.

As this area becomes more battered the cylinder will be able to move aft further giving the cylinder more room to accelerate in which in turn batters the area with more force.

It really isn't dangerous but it can cause the hand spring to break and accuracy usually suffers from the increased gap between the cylinder and the barrel.

This isn't unique to the Colt. The brass framed Whitney & Burr and the brass framed Remington pistols will do the same thing with heavy powder loads.

 

[Stephen_D]

To extend the life of a brass-framed Pietta 1860 Army revolver, what charge of FFFg should I use?

 

[Poor Private]

I have several brass framed wheelguns. I don't and will not over charge them at all. I don't notice the wear and tear that others who overcharge them experience. Thier problem is they are trying to get a heman bang out of the pistol. Just because it can hold more powder to get a louder bang doesn't mean it should. Compare it to a car engine- just because you can run it redlined doesn't mean you should. If you do you'll ruin the engine a whole lot sooner. moderation is the password.

 

[Norinco]

I've heard 18-24 grains is okay.

 

[Zonie]

Norinco's suggestion sounds about right to me.

Because these are percussion cap fired guns you can use the synthetic black powders with good success but because the lighter powder loads are recommended I would not use the pellet style powder charges. Besides, they cost too much.

I usually shoot Pyrodex P in my C & B pistols although Pyrodex RS will work if that's all you can find.
Because of the brass frame I do not recommend using Seven7seven (sometimes called triple 7 or T7 here on the forum).
Seven7seven is quite a bit more powerful per grain and power in a brass framed gun is not what the owner should be after.

With any of the synthetic powders you must measure the powder charge with a volume (as in cubic inches or cubic centimeters) device. NEVER measure these powder by actual weight because they all weigh less per cc. than an equal volume of real black powder.

 

[Don]

I regularly use 25 grains of Pyro-p in my brass framed .44 revolvers with no ill effects so far.

Don

 

[fort fireman]

I use 20-25 of fffg. i think the book recomended 22. Don't quote me on that.

 

[CaptainKirk]

I would recommend 25 as a max load, under the circumstances.

 

[Leatherbark]

I bought a Brass frame 1860 in 44 from Gander Mountain back in 1987. It was marked "Armsport" with no other markings. I mean it even didnt have any italian or spanish proof marks or serial numbers on it. But I'll swear I shot that gun regular until 1998 and gave it to a buddy tryin to get him involved in cap n ball shooting. That gun was as tight as when I bought it. I always shot 25 grains of pyrodex p and a .451 ball with grease over the ball.

I believe that sometimes the grade of brass they use may be different making some better and some worse

Bob