Should I buy brass or steel punch set to remove pins from trade gun?
Brass or steel punches to remove pins from trade gun
- Thread starter rdungan1918
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Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Steel.
Don’t remove the pins. It was likely never done on original trade guns.
Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
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Pins holding in what?
Other than the lock and barrel, there is generally no need to dismount anything else, unless it needs replacement. Be careful you don't get wood tear-out on the far side too, but it might be inevitable. Not a big deal though. Just glue the pieces back in place.
Other than the lock and barrel, there is generally no need to dismount anything else, unless it needs replacement. Be careful you don't get wood tear-out on the far side too, but it might be inevitable. Not a big deal though. Just glue the pieces back in place.
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What rifles use escutcheon plates around pins? Like the escutcheon plates at barrel wedges?
I've wondered if this was an authentic option for my Lehigh Valley poor-boy, but I doubt it.
I also have a CVA kit that has a pinned barrel, and I might install them on it.
I should get a proper punch, too, so I'll be watching this thread.
I've wondered if this was an authentic option for my Lehigh Valley poor-boy, but I doubt it.
I also have a CVA kit that has a pinned barrel, and I might install them on it.
I should get a proper punch, too, so I'll be watching this thread.
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A punch is the best way to go, but in a pinch a finish nail of proper diameter with the taper end squared off works.
Larry
Yeah, that's what I've been using. Poor boy all the way!
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I agree not to remove the pins unless really necessary.
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I'm in the Brass peanut gallery, BTW.
brass and steel punches should be in every handyman tool kit. even a delrin punch has it's place as a sight drift. But a finish nail is handy too. I hate it when my wife uses my good hollow ground screwdrivers to open paint cans it's like nails on a chalk board to me
I do like to pull pins every few years and wax the channel, I use Johnson furniture wax and glob it on, it dries very firm and I THINK it helps prevent water from getting in to the channel
Col. Batguano
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Ooh. Good idea! Do you re-locate any holes in the metal parts that may have had their ideal locations shift on you too at that time? That sometimes happens due to wood movement, or, in my case, I just got it wrong the first time..
Not has that problem
Trapper Scott
45 Cal.
Here's a picture of some I put on one of my production kits a few years ago. Since the kit isn't historically correct to start with, I didn't see any reason for not installing them because they look good and prevent tear out when and if you knock the pins out to pull the barrel. As far as brass or steel I don't think it matters a whole lot as long as the punch is smaller than the pin and you take your time. A brass punch is less likely to mar the end of the pin, but a steel punch will do fine as long as you have it square on the end of the pin.
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Trapper Scott
45 Cal.
That's what I'm asking about.
I don't see them very often, and can see the benefit for those that pull their pins, like me.
I, too, use nails, but would buy a brass punch if I came across one.
I also like the idea of waxing the barrel channel. So simple, but it never occurred to me.
About the escutcheon plates:
When were these used, and on what guns, or styles, or area, or schools of design?
This question is open to everyone interested.
Thanks.
Trapper Scott
45 Cal.
Hawken's rifles used escutcheons in the mid-1800s from what can find. I'm sure other rifle makers did too.
Was that not done on federal age guns cr 1790- 1810?
Thank you for all the comments.
Interesting idea. Just because they didn't do it doesn't mean we shouldn't do it. My gun is bare steel no bluing or browning so it is more vulnerable to rust. However, unless it is shot a lot wouldn't remove it. I was thinking more if it got soaked in the rain.
