Brass range rod

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah, I much prefer the a down bore guide to the cone shaped but both work.
I turn mine to a parallel slip fit, down bore about an inch from odds and ends of brass pieces I have laying around from other projects.
I also use Delrin rods to make them which works fine as well but is not much fun to turn on a lathe.
 
I also use Delrin rods to make them which works fine as well but is not much fun to turn on a lathe.

Agree, not fun but works. The lack of fun part might be why I experimented with wood. Tried it, liked it. Where you are, you have access to antler and bone which would work and be, shall we say, 'Alaska uneek'.
 
Brass is expensive. Aluminum can bend and pick up grit. Derlin is floppy, I personally don't care for it. Drill rod or polished spring steel would be nice but I have no easy access to either.

I recently made a 48" x 3/8" steel range rod. Just Ace hardware mild steel rod. I installed a 1/2" x 4" steel T-handle by threading peening and Locktite shaft locker. Threads 10x32, all my stuff is 10-32. I covered the rod with heat shrink tubing. When the tubing gets worn I'll just replace it. It looks like a Dewey rod.

It is plenty strong to use with ball pullers. It can not damage the bore. The weight helps for loading.
 
Don't know. Dewey thinks it is a good idea. It feels smooth and clean. I don't see how it would be any different that the floppy plastic rods people use today.

I might have preferred polished spring steel. I don't see that available in 3/8 anymore. I have heard speculation about brass, aluminum, and fiberglass being abrasive or embedding with grit. I suppose if you use a guide it does not matter.

I hope to shoot enough to wear a barrel by loading. I did wear a TC muzzle down to the the grooves with a fiberglass rod in a dusty and dry area, when I was a kid. I'll never shoot that much again so I won't sweat it.
 
Kansas Jake said:
I had to look at the HD ad again before I saw it was for a 10 pack. That is pretty cheap if you can use 10. :wink:
.

Oops, my bad, :doh: I didn't see that it was for 10. :idunno:
 
floppy plastic rods

That comment/criticism is used a lot regarding Delrin rods. I simply do not understand how flexibility is an issue if the rod is used properly. For loading, the/any rod should be grasped only a few inches above the muzzle. Reaching up and trying to load in one push is asking for trouble, no matter what the rod is made of. Not good technique. :nono:
 
Two possible objections to "floppy" rods:
1) Does the flex interfere with the feel of the load being properly seated? and for those who like to compress their load, hard to do compared to a stiff & heavy metal rod.
2) When the rod flexes, it rubs against the bore & some might be concerned about wear.
 
Coot said:
Two possible objections to "floppy" rods:
1) Does the flex interfere with the feel of the load being properly seated? and for those who like to compress their load, hard to do compared to a stiff & heavy metal rod.
2) When the rod flexes, it rubs against the bore & some might be concerned about wear.


3. Flexing requires more force to accomplish the same goal.

So a rod that flexes, makes loading more difficult. It puts more stress on both the rifle and the shooter.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Two possible objections to "floppy" rods:
1) Does the flex interfere with the feel of the load being properly seated? and for those who like to compress their load, hard to do compared to a stiff & heavy metal rod.
2) When the rod flexes, it rubs against the bore & some might be concerned about wear.

We are still talking muzzle loading, I hope.
 
3rd vote for the 3 piece CVA rod. Wally world had them for 15 dollars a few years ago. It's handy to swap lengths around.
 
lonewolf465 said:
I'm looking for a one piece brass range rod for my GPR flintlock. Any suggestions for sources??
I'd suggest a stainless steel or just a regular steel rod instead of brass with a bore guide for this reason - steel threads are stronger than brass threads by 60% + depending on the alloy of each and how the material is threaded. I prefer both my rod and jags to have steel threads - just me and my 2 cents - your mileage may vary :v .
 
Zug makes good point....

I have broken a lot of rods, jags, pullers, worms, and brushes....The weak material has always been brass or aluminum....I've never broken steel on steel.
 
I have a wooden one, a aluminum one, a brass one and a steel one.I think I might have to many for just one rifle.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top