Breaking down fibers in the wood?

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

I have seen this topic appear a lot on multiple modern and traditional forums where many people comment that products such as "clenzoil field and range" or "ballistol" which both have an impressive pedigree and are advertised as for use on metal AND wood, claim that such products break down fibers in the wood.

Everything from "It looks nice now, but in 60 years the rifle stock is going to blow apart on you", or "The reason it is safe is because the product only cleans the modern 'plastic' finishes, and is not allowed anywhere near the wood underneath", to "I've been using it since the 50's with no problems".

It sounds like to me, if your rifle's stock deteriorates on you, then there is probably a thousand other reasons to consider before the clenzoil?

I was just hoping to clear up this issue.

Thank you.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Heard it hundreds of times, guess someone's job is to stand there and watch the fibers break down with a microscope.

IMO, I think people get far to anal about such things, I personally believe people back in the day would probably laugh at all we go nuts about in today's modern times.

Now very much so some of these modern deals do break down wood fibers, personally
I use and love ballistol, in fact it's the only store bought oil that touches any of my guns including stocks. Silicone gun rags... I use a ballistol rag!

You've started a fire on this one... Like the bottle of Frank's red hot sauce says, " I put that @&#! on everything!" same goes for ballistol and my fix'n wax!

 

[BrownBear]

Can't tell you how many times I've seen it over the years in guns. Even back in the 60's when I worked for a gunsmith, one of our most frequent jobs was getting rid of the punky, oil-saturated wood and rebedding in an attempt to restore accuracy. The biggest issues were always around the recoil lugs, action bolts and tangs. So soft and punky you could scrape it out with a thumbnail.

It used to be a prescription to oil the inside of the stock with the same "gun oil" you used on the metal, from what I heard. Our solution then, and mine today, is to seal the interior wood surfaces with finish. And keep the oil under control.

Anyone telling me to use any kind of "gun oil" on wood is looking like an idiot in these experienced eyes.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I think also we must consider how one applies any oil or grease. A little goes a long way! I've seen many guns literally soaked in oil. Wood safe or not I wouldn't be doing it. I absolutely agree a wood finish/sealer is a must. I highly doubt ballistol will degrade my tru-oil finishes. :thumbsup:

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

I used to use Liquid Gold for basic routine maintenance of wooden stocks :idunno:

Since joining the forum, certain people have converted me to Johnson Paste Wax for that same basic routine maintenance. :idunno:

 

[Crewdawg445]

I'm very fond of JPW, if you think it's good... check out renaissance wax. :thumbsup:

It's pricey but amazing stuff. Last time I was in Great Britain I picked up a few extras. It's actually cheaper than purchasing it here in the states. Regardless, it's worth it.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

Johnson's paste wax and Renaissance wax are both good. I keep any kind of oil far away from my stocks, as an oil soaked stock is a weak one.

 

[necchi]

I used to use Liquid Gold for basic routine maintenance of wooden stocks

I still use it,, but keep in mind what Crewdog said;

A little goes a long way!

This whole thing about stock care isn't that complicated nor does it need to be done with such fervor.
I might treat mine twice a year, there simply isn't a need to slather stuff over wood any more frequently. Even if rained on or wet a simple dry cloth will do just fine with modern finish on modern guns.

 

[Cowboy]

+1 for Renaissance Wax. I use it on all the exterior surfaces on my muzzleloaders.

Yes, It is a little pricey, but only a very small amount is needed to cover alot of area.

It sure does bring out the beauty and clarity of your wood stocks, iron/brass furniture, exterior of barrel.

It doesn't make it look shiney! Rather gives it a nice deep luster. Makes your firearms look well cared for!

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

 

[Artificer]

Can't tell you how many times I've seen it over the years in guns. Even back in the 60's when I worked for a gunsmith, one of our most frequent jobs was getting rid of the punky, oil-saturated wood and rebedding in an attempt to restore accuracy. The biggest issues were always around the recoil lugs, action bolts and tangs. So soft and punky you could scrape it out with a thumbnail.

It used to be a prescription to oil the inside of the stock with the same "gun oil" you used on the metal, from what I heard. Our solution then, and mine today, is to seal the interior wood surfaces with finish. And keep the oil under control.

Anyone telling me to use any kind of "gun oil" on wood is looking like an idiot in these experienced eyes.

I could not agree more and especially any oils that contain any petroleum distillates, including mineral oil. But what do I know? I have only seen many hundreds of military walnut stocks ruined by the practice.

Wipe a stock down with a damp rag or at most Murphy's Oil Soap to get rid of dirt or other things and then wipe it dry with another rag. Renew the wood finish as required.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

BTW, this is exactly why one of the BEST things the military ever did for short or long term storage of firearms was switch from cosmolene to a preservative that dries in minutes and leaves a sort of whitish powder on the surface.

Gus

 

[Jim C]

Anytime oil permeates wood on a reoccurring continual basis it is bound to break it down. I have seen stocks that were totally wallowed out around the action, tang, and stock bolts from recoil due to oil softened wood. There's not much one can do to correct a fubar like that once it has reached that point except to chunk it in the fireplace, buy a new piece of wood fer the rifle gun, and take better care of the replacement.

 

[Billnpatti]

Well, I'm only 75 1/2 years old and have been shooting guns since I was 6 years old. My grandpa started me out young and I not only learned how to shoot a gun, I learned how to clean and protect it. I've never had a gun stock develop problems from the amount of oil that I have used to protect the metal parts of a gun. I just oil them lightly, I don't drench or drown them in oil. Admittedly, that is only 70 years. Even though I have never had a problem with wood deterioration, now when I build or re-stock a gun, I not only finish the outside of the stock, I work finish into the barrel channel and anywhere I can get it just for that tiny bit of added protection. Is it necessary? Hell, I don't know, I've never had a problem, I just do it because I can.

 

[MSW]

I'm very fond of JPW, if you think it's good... check out renaissance wax. :thumbsup:

It's pricey but amazing stuff. Last time I was in Great Britain I picked up a few extras. It's actually cheaper than purchasing it here in the states. Regardless, it's worth it.

didn't know it was cheaper in England ... gotta remember that if ever my eldest goes back for the Shakespeare thing.

 

[Crewdawg445]

When I purchased it last it was about 10 pounds, approximately $5.00 cheaper than the normal place I've purchased it here in the states.

 

[ZUG]

I guess I'd worry about the price of a can of the wax if I owned a museum full of "stuff" but even with a safe full of guns I would have a hard time using up a can of the wax in 5 years or even 10. I bought two cans of Johnson Paste Wax over 20 years ago and still have about 1/2 a can left -- let's see how much cost per year does that comes out to :hmm: :hmm: ?? It's nice to be frugal but there are limits :v .

 

[Crewdawg445]

Well with respects, some people obviously do care about the price of a can of wax. Obviously ren wax is more expensive due to the nature of its use. It is a better wax for a reason and comands a higher price tag. However, if one is using an entire can of this stuff in a year something is wrong... When compared to the price of JPW and by volume, ren wax is certainly expensive.

I use both, however I've found ren wax is a superior product over JPW, my guns don't sit in a safe, they get used in the woods and are exposed to the elements. My deep freezer wouldn't be full if I was concerned about rain, humidity, snow and such degrading my precious boom sticks. From my experience, it's worth the price.

 

[ZUG]

No offense taken and no offense given in my original answer - it was a general statement :surrender: . I have Johnson, Briwax, & Crystal Clear Wax and use them all plus Carnauba Wax flakes so for me the Renaissance Wax is something I am not going to add to my "stable" of waxes. Use what you feel comfortable with that's why they make all those different kinds :wink: .

 

[Naphtali]

If this is too off-topic, ignore it or PM me with a reply.
***
Cleaning out boxes on my back porch, I discovered much muzzleloading "stuff," including a previously opened can of Johnson's Paste Wax. While the can was properly sealed, the box had been outside for at least three years in west-central Montana.

Is the wax still useful?

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

Cleaning out boxes on my back porch, I discovered much muzzleloading "stuff," including a previously opened can of Johnson's Paste Wax. While the can was properly sealed, the box had been outside for at least three years in west-central Montana.
Is the wax still useful?

I wouldn't take the chance at $6 a can.