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breech plug question

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Kentuckyjed

.45, .50, .62 cal.
Joined
Aug 15, 2022
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Location
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Acquired two 10-12inch sections of barrel, one with front sight and the other breech plug and tang of an older CVA bushwhacker .50 cal percussion. The breech plug end is affixed to a piece of the original stock from the rifle that was cut down to pistol shape, it works pretty decent for what it is as a pistol.
I want to convert both to a Kentucky style flintlock pistol. Which means removing the drum on the breech plug end piece and converting to flint (no problem) and then cutting threads in the front sight piece to add a breech plug (made or purchased).
Would anyone know what type of threaded breech plug would fit in a .50 cal CVA barrel?
Going to purchase locks and parts to basically make a pair of these pistols, barrel pieces are in good shape bore wise. Any suggestions are appreciated from what locks to buy and other pieces/parts that can be used. These pieces were from one rifle that was purchased years ago in a pawn shop and the barrel was cut on a metal bandsaw to originally make two pistols. Have a blank canvas here I think so any direction is culpable.
Thanks
 
in the case of my mountain rifle necchi, i loaned it to my brother 30 years ago, to be used as a prop in his Photo studio. somewhere along that time line one of his boys destroyed the drum, attempted to remove the breech and did sundry other indignities to the barrel.
i retrieved the rifle a year or so ago and as it had sentimental value i wanted to get it back to shootable.
i squared up the cut, threaded and shouldered for a plug and drilled and installed a new drum.
 
Ok, I get all that.
Could you maybe share a little more detail with @kentuckyjed how to do all that's required to properly breech a sawed off chunk of a barrel front beyond needing a 5/8x18 tap?
Or should he just buy the tap size you recommend, a bolt that fit's, and screw it in there?
What breech plug works best for re-cut/over-cut metric threads? Or just use hack saw too cut off a hunk of the bolt and grind it to make the tang hook?

Sorry, but your telling a new to it guy to just buy a tap,, you could have at least said get a bottom tap,, :doh:
 
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I bought a CVA button breech plug.
That's cool, one for flint or cap lock?
It's good to know there's a metric/standard thread conversion breech plug available.
Where'd ya get that? CVA sell'm?
Track, Deer Creek?
I have a button hook barrel, and a hook breech rifle, can I swap out the barrel breech plug to make it fit?
Or do I have to use a 5/8x18 tap first?
:dunno:
 
On a CVA, one screw to remove the hook tang & replace it with a button tang. Mission accomplished.
 
The original breeched end is the button style and with this one I was just going to take the drum off and do the 10x1.25 bolt and make it a flinter after I get the lock. The other barrel piece is basically what it is, the front sight end of the barrel that is 10-12 inches long. I was wondering what size tap(s) would be recommended to re-thread the breech area and can I by a breech plug that will work for that barrel or should I make one from a bolt. I know that these pistols will not match as far as the breech areas are and they will be more for shooting enjoyment. Thought about the L&R lock but also looking for an economical way to make two pistols. Have not decided about the stock situation, either buying a pre-carve or just getting a blank and starting from there. I plan on going to the Bucksnort Trade Fair in Etown, KY in Feb. 2023 and was hoping to find some pieces and parts there to get these pistols going.
Getting a lot of info here on this forum, thanks for the many points of view and professional opinions.
 
my old cva MR as i stated was essentially what you have after my nephew wrenched on it.
the bore .509 and so i just tapped the breech end, installed the button plug against a shoulder created when i reamed the bore before threading. then i drilled the right side and installed a drum just forward of the plug face. this of course will be just a vent or vent liner in your case.
some here will be by to critic my method but i proofed it satisfactorily and my old friend is back to belching smoke.
a picture of the plug i bought. searched my purchase history on ebay and found it.
cva .618 plug..jpg

for locks i would watch ebay. L&R locks are great mostly but one can find takeoffs on ebay slightly cheaper.
 
Would the front section of the rifle not make well for a pistol. Not too worried about any competition shooting as far as rate of twist at the barrel end. Just wondering on you're comment.
Thanks
the front section can be just as good as the rear, once you breech it. plus you have the satisfaction of creating your own fun.
 
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Yes, you can use sections of cut off rifle barrels to make pistol barrels. They will work well if the bore is in good condition.
I have tried it with my machine rest and they do work better than you might think. The slow twist doesn't matter.
At 25 yards you should be able to get under 2" groups (in a machine rest).
With a mere mortal hanging on the stock is a different matter.
Barry
 
At the very least, you should be able to gain valuable experience in the whole build from parts process. Sometimes the journey is more important than the result. Guaranteed that the next time things will go better, or you will learn that this is more than you want to do.
 
I am an experienced tradesman and have built and tinkered with several muzzleloading firearms so the build part does not bother me at all. I would not like to use the button breech that is like the one on the other barrel piece I have, I just don't care for the look and might even replace it with a breech plug that has a tang I would prefer to use an appropriate breech plug with tang but I was just wanting to know which type would work (where one might be purchased) and the thread size for my taps. I have not threaded a barrel breech before and was looking for the safest option. As I posted earlier I will be hopefully scavenging some parts at the Bucksnort Trade Fair in Feb. so I am waiting until I get back from there before I proceed with any other pieces/parts purchases.
Again, thanks for the information, the more input I get the more things can change in the build and that's the fun part of it. This forum is a wealth of information on many levels. Much appreciated.
 
I am guessing from other posted information/suggestions that I can tap the existing bore out with 5/8x18 taps and proceed from there.
 
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