Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
When I break a RR i get a new one.
Walk
Walk
Broken ramrod
- Thread starter Magungo1066
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I would not consider gluing a broken wooden ramrod for any purpose other than as a display piece. Not worth the risk or frustration when, not if, it breaks again.
I use a 1/4" dia brass ramrod from October Country for my .36 flintlock. It's small enough that it's not too heavy, and since I don't hunt, I'm not carrying it for hours at a time.
They will cut it to your exact length, your diameter, and thread the ends however you want. They can even antique it (I recommend it). They also have t-handles that can be attached to the rod when needed. It was delivered in a pvc pipe, so it wasn't damaged by the shipping gorillas. Not cheap, but I'll only buy 1. Well, I do have a brass range rod for my .50 flinter Hawken and others.
They will also make custom length brass short starters. Get one long enough, and it's a range rod for your pistols!
They will cut it to your exact length, your diameter, and thread the ends however you want. They can even antique it (I recommend it). They also have t-handles that can be attached to the rod when needed. It was delivered in a pvc pipe, so it wasn't damaged by the shipping gorillas. Not cheap, but I'll only buy 1. Well, I do have a brass range rod for my .50 flinter Hawken and others.
They will also make custom length brass short starters. Get one long enough, and it's a range rod for your pistols!
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I broke mine and tore up my hand pretty good. Full recovery, but took a while for a sliver to work its way out. The rod should have straight grain from end to end. If your rod broke at a slight diagonal, then it will probably break again. To replace my broken RR, I bought 3. One steel range rod (with brass guide) to use at the range. One Delrin rod to use when hunting and a fresh wooden rod to make my gun whole.
A few months ago, I saw an old guy reloading at a match. He used numerous small strokes of the ramrod - each one only 2-3 in long until the ball was seated. He commented that he had never broken a ramrod. Since then, I have conciously emulated his technique.
jimhallam
Pilgrim
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I do not understand why people continue to use a wood rod. I suppose that if you are hunting the weight factor is to be considered.
What are your options?
(a) Repair the rod and keep it in situ, which gives a measure of consistency to the "stocking", but use something more robust;
(b) replace it with something like Delrin, leaving the original rod in the gunroom;
(c) use a brass (NOT Steel!) rod - ideally with a metal or wooden cone to protect the muzzle -- - and with a transverse slot to take a tommy bar in case you need to draw a ball. I know that will make things a little bit heavier but it could save a lot of F-ing and Blinding when out in the woods ;-)
What are your options?
(a) Repair the rod and keep it in situ, which gives a measure of consistency to the "stocking", but use something more robust;
(b) replace it with something like Delrin, leaving the original rod in the gunroom;
(c) use a brass (NOT Steel!) rod - ideally with a metal or wooden cone to protect the muzzle -- - and with a transverse slot to take a tommy bar in case you need to draw a ball. I know that will make things a little bit heavier but it could save a lot of F-ing and Blinding when out in the woods ;-)
Do not use a glued rod. As suggested, get a new rod, or two, or three, or 50 like me. Use hickory for ronny and when you want to look pc. The synthetics (I'm a proponent of Delrin) will last longer, won't break and do not damage yer barrel.
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I don't understand why people use anything but a hickory rod
Trooper
40 Cal
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When I took possession of our three muzzleloaders, the first thing I did was replace the wooden rods with black synthetic rods. The stories I’ve heard about broken ramrods being driven into the shooters hands while reloading convinced me that synthetic is the way to go.
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I don't understand why people use anything but a hickory rod
Well I think if you look at a ramrod as a tool, you’ll see that tool handles are made of Ash, pool sticks are made of ash, bows are made from black locust, Osage, and Yew.
There are more flexible woods than hickory out there at the same or less cost.
Good advice. This was one of the first rules I learned 50 years ago. I have since watched videos of guys grabbing the rod a foot or more above the muzzle. I cringe as the rod bows.
I’m not saying the OP did that because I know there’s the possibility of a weak spot in any wood but this is always a good rule to pass on in case a new shooter has never been told.
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Best ramrod modern ramrod material is 304 aluminum, it’s light and flexible, can be blackened to not look like aluminum.
If it’s from a gun I built and you send it to me I’ll make you a new one, no cost. If someone else’s build I’d still do it but charge fair price. If it’s a tapered custom rod then the new one will have to match perfectly. I normally use graduated ramrod thimbles; smallest at the entry and largest at the muzzle.
I use a steel one piece rod with guide at the range. For hunting, I still use a hickory rod. When using a wood rod, always use short strokes until the ball is seated. DO NOT put you hands above your head and try and make the ball seat in 2 or 3 passes. Yu also need to learn how to read the grain. I buy my hickory by the dozen. You might as well, as only buying one or two rods will be more costly in shipping. I cull out the one's that have run out, and use them for dowel stock.
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Here we go again.......
Been using hickory ramrods for I think 45 years in everything from .32 to smooth-bores and never broken one. The best advise you will ever get has already been posted above, use short strokes and the rod will not break.
Been using hickory ramrods for I think 45 years in everything from .32 to smooth-bores and never broken one. The best advise you will ever get has already been posted above, use short strokes and the rod will not break.
That is a very kind offer Rich! I would still like to compensate you. Especially if you would be willing/have the time to make two so I have a spare. Either way I would love to take you up on your offer!
Yes admittedly it was my fault. I am very careful when I use the wooden rod. Doesn't take more than a quarter-second lapse of carefulness to break something. I sure said a bad word lol.
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I have tried repairing a ramrod as a teen. It broke right below the repair. I'm guessing the wood is stressed for some distance above and below the crack.
If you shoot enough with a wooden rod it will eventually break. Hurrying to get the game usually what breaks them for me.
I know many don't recommend it, but I used dowel rods from the hardware store for decades. I'd pick thru them and find a straight one with no or little run out. Usually get them oversized and use sandpaper to fit them. They last over a year, longer is you don't shoot much. This was before the internets showed up, and things weren't instantly available.
The last one I did a friend had a wood lathe. We chucked it up, grabbed some sandpaper and was done in a few minutes. But I've fit them by hand many times.
I also have a brass range rod with wooden handle I made for my 40cal. I bought the brass rod at a metal supply house, threaded it for the jag, and made a wooden handle. But much of my shooting isn't at the range.
I don't think I'd ever use a steel rod. There's probably small chance of a spark, but it only takes once.
Good luck.
All I use are wood rods except for a small diameter brass rod I use for C/B revolvers. I have NEVER broken one. An old man taught me to go in short strokes down the bore. I credit this as the reason for success with wood rods.
user 48679
54 Cal.
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FWIW, I've never experienced a broken RR, since I started muzzleloading in the late 60's - but all my RR's are made from split wood, and not dowel stock (which usually has the grain running to the outside of the turned RR, breaking easier).
Rich made you a wonderful offer - good on you, Rich !
Rich made you a wonderful offer - good on you, Rich !
