Broken ramrod

[david w]

FWIW, I've never experienced a broken RR, since I started muzzleloading in the late 60's - but all my RR's are made from split wood, and not dowel stock (which usually has the grain running to the outside of the turned RR, breaking easier).

Rich made you a wonderful offer - good on you, Rich !

Yes, and I miss his chert flints!

 

[popgun54tc]

Contact TVM. Have them send you six replacement hickory rods with tips. Fire away. Whenever I have bought a TVM gun (I have more than a few) I order 6 spare rods for each gun. Haven't had to use a spare yet, but If I break a rod, they are there.

ADK Bigfoot

TVM What company is this?

 

[david w]

TVM What company is this?

Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading.

 

[FishDFly]

After replacing, buy a range rod!

 

[popgun54tc]

Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading.

Thank you. Best wishes

 

[Twowithone]

I did the same thing yrs back at the range,snapped on the second shot early range day for sure. Well replaced it with a wooden 1 like it had and I have a dedicated range rod now.

 

[rich pierce]

That is a very kind offer Rich! I would still like to compensate you. Especially if you would be willing/have the time to make two so I have a spare. Either way I would love to take you up on your offer!

Send it!

 

[deerstalkert]

when i have time and inclination i heat treat my RR's. don't have a clue if it really helps, but i have never broken one.
short strokes are the cure to broken rods.
the feel of the delrin rods leave me cold and i much prefer the looks of wood, but i hate the color and smell of my own blood. besides, blood ruins the finish on a nicely browned barrel.

 

[jefair1]

I have a brass ramrod on my GPR and I don't think I am going to break it anytime soon.

 

[Tenmile]

Much has been written about wooden rods, most all very good advice. I used Franklin Titebond II for many years in millwork and on bare ,dry wood the joint will be probably the strongest spot. But I would not bother repairing a broken rod for reasons already stated. Buy or make one. Just examine it visually and flex it a good bit. Better to have a controlled break. If our fathers had had delrin or aluminum they probably would have used it. Of course if they had that they wouldn’t be using muzzleloaders.

 

[deerstalkert]

Much has been written about wooden rods, most all very good advice. I used Franklin Titebond II for many years in millwork and on bare ,dry wood the joint will be probably the strongest spot. But I would not bother repairing a broken rod for reasons already stated. Buy or make one. Just examine it visually and flex it a good bit. Better to have a controlled break. If our fathers had had delrin or aluminum they probably would have used it. Of course if they had that they wouldn’t be using muzzleloaders.

there is something better?

 

[Tenmile]

there is something better?

Some say Sharps but that’s a matter of opinion.

 

[beardedhorse]

Replace it. It may not degrease or have sufficient surface area to glue. Make short starters from the remnants or even a hickory arrow shaft if long enough. I now avoid ramin that is sold by a muzzle loading suypply company instead of hickory. Check for straight grain hickory if doing mail order. A stainless range rod with brass muzzle protector is not going to snap on you.

 

[tenngun]

Buy a bundle of rods. So you have several.
Always grab your rod four to six inches above the muzzle and drive home in short pushes. Rods break from bending. So you want to be close so there is no place to bend. My collection of rods for three guns

 

[Hood2]

I'm sure it could probably be repaired by splicing, but I wouldn't want to spend the time to do it right and (as others have said) I wouldn't want to risk it.

 

[Magungo1066]

Thank you for all of your advice everyone!

 

[Ponderosaman]

I do not understand why people continue to use a wood rod. I suppose that if you are hunting the weight factor is to be considered.
What are your options?
(a) Repair the rod and keep it in situ, which gives a measure of consistency to the "stocking", but use something more robust;
(b) replace it with something like Delrin, leaving the original rod in the gunroom;
(c) use a brass (NOT Steel!) rod - ideally with a metal or wooden cone to protect the muzzle -- - and with a transverse slot to take a tommy bar in case you need to draw a ball. I know that will make things a little bit heavier but it could save a lot of F-ing and Blinding when out in the woods ;-)

My Springfield .69 smoothbore (actually my pop’s that he let’s me hang on to) has a steel ramrod. It’s a reproduction, so I guess it may not be historically accurate, but it makes sense to have a sturdy ramrod that won’t break in battle I suppose. Not sure why to NOT get a steel RR.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

If y'all'd just use shorter strokes you wooden break yer dang rod!

 

[NorthFork]

there is something better?

No Sir, there is nothing better. Brass, aluminum, and delrin are nothing more than distractions from the way it should be done. Period. If you own an original or reproduction militia arm that has a steel rod, well that would be the exception. I have 'lurked' on this forum since the early 2000's (don't remember the exact year), everything the old man taught me has been repeated endlessly here over the years. Short strokes is the order of the day.

I repeat with 100% honesty, I have NEVER broken a wood rod in 32 years of muzzleloading. Including so called crappy Pedersoli, Lyman, CVA/Traditions rods. My Pedersoli Indian Trade Musket has had well over a thousand shots ran down the barrel. The factory rod has not failed.

My 'range' rods are wood. NEVER failed.

 

[JamesT]

I do not understand why people continue to use a wood rod. I suppose that if you are hunting the weight factor is to be considered.

Really?? It's kinda a traditional thing. Maybe synthetic stocks, synthetic rods , and stainless barrels are superior but leave it to the inline crowd. I will stick with hickory. Has worked for at least 300 years.
James