Would say absolutely no to the vinegar , unless you want more rust than you might already have. This job should require a good range rod , or an adapter for different ends on the Bess rod. Plug the touch hole and fill the barrel w/hot tap water. If you have a ribbed .75 cal r/r tip , put a cleaning rag on it with a little 00 steel wool on the cloth for a little extra bite. run the tip in and out to see what the goo is inside the barrel. If it's really just goo , the hot water should clear it up. Once the goo is gone , and the barrel isn't shiny, perhaps showing some light rust , more steel wool will be in order. Always lubricate the wool with something so it doesn't bind in the bore. Check the results. If shiny , good to go. If bore slightly pitted , make a rotary lap out of a 3/8" piece of steel rod stock with a 2" slot cut in the end to insert cloth backed emery cloth in the slot. Obviously , the rod stock should be long enough to go to the breech face , and stick out of the muzzle to attach an electric drill motor. DANGER here , you have created a powerful tool here. Always keep the lap moving in and out , don't run it in just one area so as to make an uneven area of the bore . Frequently wipe the bore and check if the rust is gone. Lightly lube the lap so it doesn't load up with debris. Change the emery cloth often , and try fine grit first , if necessary advance to medium grit . Once the bore is shiny go back to fine grit for final polish. Move through the grades of steel wool coarse to fine if necessary . I used to use this procedure on original .69 cal. C.W. percussion muskets . In the early 1970's these guns sold for $40 each , so were a good place to learn gun mechanics. Admittedly , the lap described above is a little harsh on a new musket ,but it made the available rusty bore originals shootable. Sorry I went so far into the weeds , but may be there is some pearl of wisdom you can use. ....................oldwood