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Browning metal parts
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robinghewitt
62 Cal.
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All procedures :shocking: that's a lot of typing ::
Remove mineral grease with kerosene or gasoline if you're feeling confident. Remove other grease with caustic.
Is that spelt, sorry, spelled right? We call 'em paraffin and petrol over here ::
Remove mineral grease with kerosene or gasoline if you're feeling confident. Remove other grease with caustic.
Is that spelt, sorry, spelled right? We call 'em paraffin and petrol over here ::
broken arrow
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I clean the parts with acetone or xylene, then lightly sandblast them, and then clean with the solvent again. For the brown I use Birchwood Casey Plum Brown.
IronCrickett
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I generally use alcohol ( not the drinking variety ) to de-grease the barrel. I do the inside as well as the outside, to prevent oil migration. Another thing I do (and maybe this is a little over the top) is remove the breech plug and clean it and the barrel threads with alcohol. I remove the sights and clean them and the dovetails in the barrel, but do not remove the lugs ( bottom of the barrel doesn't really matter). I once had an oil spot show up at the breech before I started doing this, and it ruined my day. When it get's all dull looking, you've cleaned it enough.
I will then plug the bore with a wooden tapered dowel,to prevent solution from getting into the barrel, or any residual oil from coming out of the barrel, if I somehow missed some. I hang the barrel from the breech tang hole, with a piece of stiff coat hanger, fashioned into a hook and attached to a rafter in my basement. I then begin using browning solution. I am currently using Homer Dangler's, but I've used Davis and Laurel Mountain with good results.
Begin doing a whole flat at a time to get the most consistent covering. Do all of the flats you want browned ( usually the top 5 or all 8 ) Let it sit a couple of hours, then repeat. After two or three coats, you begin getting some fairly large scale. I then card with either coarse canvas or de-oiled steel wool. Continue the process until you are satisfied with the result.
I then stop the reaction by using a solution of water and baking soda, followed by my favorite gun oil. Don't forget to clean and lube the bore, as it hasn't seen oil in a couple of days. Keep an eye on it for a week or so to make sure it doesn't get orange rust around areas such as sights, etc.
I usually do my browning during the summer months, but this year I am going to have to make a browning box, as I have a barrel and lock to brown later this year, and the humidity will be too low... :thumbsup:
Later
I.C.
I will then plug the bore with a wooden tapered dowel,to prevent solution from getting into the barrel, or any residual oil from coming out of the barrel, if I somehow missed some. I hang the barrel from the breech tang hole, with a piece of stiff coat hanger, fashioned into a hook and attached to a rafter in my basement. I then begin using browning solution. I am currently using Homer Dangler's, but I've used Davis and Laurel Mountain with good results.
Begin doing a whole flat at a time to get the most consistent covering. Do all of the flats you want browned ( usually the top 5 or all 8 ) Let it sit a couple of hours, then repeat. After two or three coats, you begin getting some fairly large scale. I then card with either coarse canvas or de-oiled steel wool. Continue the process until you are satisfied with the result.
I then stop the reaction by using a solution of water and baking soda, followed by my favorite gun oil. Don't forget to clean and lube the bore, as it hasn't seen oil in a couple of days. Keep an eye on it for a week or so to make sure it doesn't get orange rust around areas such as sights, etc.
I usually do my browning during the summer months, but this year I am going to have to make a browning box, as I have a barrel and lock to brown later this year, and the humidity will be too low... :thumbsup:
Later
I.C.
I've tried Brake Cleaner but with moderate results so I usually use Acetone or MEK. Lacquer thinner also works well.
Of course if you use any of these, do it outside and stay away from any fire or sparks because they will ignite at the slightest provocation.
Note that Iron Crickett mentioned degreased Steel Wool.
This is VERY important because the makers of steel wool apply a anti-rust oil to it so it stays nice on the store shelf.
This oil is Dam near impossible to remove, even with the above solvents. If you don't remove it, it will contaminate the surface of anything it touches and ruin all attempts to continue to brown the part.
The only thing I know that will degrease steel wool every time is a mixture of muratic (or hydrochloric) acid and water.
This will also degrease your barrel, but it etches the metal so I wouldn't recommend using it there.
Wear rubber gloves when your handeling any of your parts. (The kind your Doctor uses). They are cheap and available from your local drug store.
They will keep the oils from your skin from contaminating the part while your working on it. (If the cashier looks at you with a puzzled expression, just say "it's my turn to clean out the cat box." ::
Have fun
Of course if you use any of these, do it outside and stay away from any fire or sparks because they will ignite at the slightest provocation.
Note that Iron Crickett mentioned degreased Steel Wool.
This is VERY important because the makers of steel wool apply a anti-rust oil to it so it stays nice on the store shelf.
This oil is Dam near impossible to remove, even with the above solvents. If you don't remove it, it will contaminate the surface of anything it touches and ruin all attempts to continue to brown the part.
The only thing I know that will degrease steel wool every time is a mixture of muratic (or hydrochloric) acid and water.
This will also degrease your barrel, but it etches the metal so I wouldn't recommend using it there.
Wear rubber gloves when your handeling any of your parts. (The kind your Doctor uses). They are cheap and available from your local drug store.
They will keep the oils from your skin from contaminating the part while your working on it. (If the cashier looks at you with a puzzled expression, just say "it's my turn to clean out the cat box." ::
Have fun
I generally degreese with Formula 409 followed by rubbing alcohol.
As to procedures ... here goes ....
There are generally two ways to brown a barrel. The hot brown method and the cold brown method. Most prefer the cold brown though it takes longer. Each method can be performed a couple ways. Color is controlled by the amount of carding, the method of carding, temp and humidity, and number of applications.
Barrel preparation is the same no matter which way you intend to brown. Browning does not work well on highly polished surfaces. Draw filing to remove the milling marks and square up the corners is a must and is all that is really required. This will give a more textured finish. For a smoother brown polish to 320 grit with the paper backed with a hard object to maintain the sharp corners. A finer polish results in a longer browning process and may result in areas not taking the browning. Polish no finer than 320 for browning. Now you need to degrease the barrel. Once degreased, handle only with gloves. I use rubber exam gloves but any rubber glove will work. The key is not to transfer oils from your skin back onto the degreased barrel that will result in a spotty finish.
12 hour cycle Cold Browning: I have had good success using Danglers Brown, Wakegan Bay Brown, and Laruel Mountain Forge Browning solutions. The first two must be put on so the barrel is just damp. Any heavier and you will impart a copper color to the barrel due to the copper in the solution. The only fix is to remove the finish and start over. With the barrel prepped and all holes plugged with wooden dowels apply a light coat of solution to the barrel using a clean cotton cloth. You need only dampen the metal. Now set aside for 12 hours to rust. Depending on the temperature and relative humidity this first cycle may only result in a dull greenish color. If so, do not card the metal. Simply apply a second light coat of solution and set aside for another 12 hours. Once a light coating of orangish rust appears rub/buff/card it off using 0000 steel wool that has been run through the dishwasher or washed in acetone to remove the oils. Wipe with a cotton cloth and repeat the cycles for three to five days until desired texture and color is achieved. The heavier you card the smoother the texture. A darker color can be achieved earlier by carding with a piece of denim during the first rusting cycles until the rusting gets more aggressive when you will want to switch to steel wool. The 12 hour cycle is convenient because you can do this over the course of a week before and after work. The 12 hour cycle is more aggressive since the solution has had more time to work between carding cycles. If you know you will miss a carding cycle do not apply the solution prior. Enough solution will remain after the last carding to allow a slower less aggressive cycle for when you get back to it. Do not let it go more than 24 hours without carding and do not skip a carding cycle often as it will result in a very rough surface. It will not hurt anything to go as much as 14 or 15 hours between a carding cycle should something arise. Cold browning is very forgiving.
3 hour cycle Cold Browning: Everything is the same as the 12 hour cycle except you card every three hours. This can give you a nice brown in a day as opposed to 3 to five days. Desired color is often achieved after about 6 to 8 cycles. Again try not to skip carding cycles. Since the solution has less time to work between carding cycles the resultant surface texture will be much smoother.
Alternately you can use Dixels scratch wheel (order from Brownell
As to procedures ... here goes ....
There are generally two ways to brown a barrel. The hot brown method and the cold brown method. Most prefer the cold brown though it takes longer. Each method can be performed a couple ways. Color is controlled by the amount of carding, the method of carding, temp and humidity, and number of applications.
Barrel preparation is the same no matter which way you intend to brown. Browning does not work well on highly polished surfaces. Draw filing to remove the milling marks and square up the corners is a must and is all that is really required. This will give a more textured finish. For a smoother brown polish to 320 grit with the paper backed with a hard object to maintain the sharp corners. A finer polish results in a longer browning process and may result in areas not taking the browning. Polish no finer than 320 for browning. Now you need to degrease the barrel. Once degreased, handle only with gloves. I use rubber exam gloves but any rubber glove will work. The key is not to transfer oils from your skin back onto the degreased barrel that will result in a spotty finish.
12 hour cycle Cold Browning: I have had good success using Danglers Brown, Wakegan Bay Brown, and Laruel Mountain Forge Browning solutions. The first two must be put on so the barrel is just damp. Any heavier and you will impart a copper color to the barrel due to the copper in the solution. The only fix is to remove the finish and start over. With the barrel prepped and all holes plugged with wooden dowels apply a light coat of solution to the barrel using a clean cotton cloth. You need only dampen the metal. Now set aside for 12 hours to rust. Depending on the temperature and relative humidity this first cycle may only result in a dull greenish color. If so, do not card the metal. Simply apply a second light coat of solution and set aside for another 12 hours. Once a light coating of orangish rust appears rub/buff/card it off using 0000 steel wool that has been run through the dishwasher or washed in acetone to remove the oils. Wipe with a cotton cloth and repeat the cycles for three to five days until desired texture and color is achieved. The heavier you card the smoother the texture. A darker color can be achieved earlier by carding with a piece of denim during the first rusting cycles until the rusting gets more aggressive when you will want to switch to steel wool. The 12 hour cycle is convenient because you can do this over the course of a week before and after work. The 12 hour cycle is more aggressive since the solution has had more time to work between carding cycles. If you know you will miss a carding cycle do not apply the solution prior. Enough solution will remain after the last carding to allow a slower less aggressive cycle for when you get back to it. Do not let it go more than 24 hours without carding and do not skip a carding cycle often as it will result in a very rough surface. It will not hurt anything to go as much as 14 or 15 hours between a carding cycle should something arise. Cold browning is very forgiving.
3 hour cycle Cold Browning: Everything is the same as the 12 hour cycle except you card every three hours. This can give you a nice brown in a day as opposed to 3 to five days. Desired color is often achieved after about 6 to 8 cycles. Again try not to skip carding cycles. Since the solution has less time to work between carding cycles the resultant surface texture will be much smoother.
Alternately you can use Dixels scratch wheel (order from Brownell
lonewolf5347
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54Noll:Between the two methods of browning which holds up better,and in return has the better colors
B.Habermehl
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I would say, definately the slow cold brown will produce the most pleasing and durable finish. It's funny how different some of us do things. I do no degreasing step at all. However I do not touch the barrel at all with my hands during the draw filing and sanding process. No touch no grease. :m2c: I have not had any trouble with oil migration except when I oiled the bore of one barrel with a well known penetrating product while I was building the rifle during a verry humid summer to prevent unwanted rust. I do not use this stuff any more because of this event. I also tap a tapered wood plug into the muzzle. This gives you a handle for the muzzle end. I use a damp box during the drier months. Most summers there is no need for the damp box.
Adding to 54JNolls comments on Plum Browning, if you do have an oven which will hold the entire barrel, the temperature to set it at if 275-280 degrees F. The process works best at temperatures of 265-285 degrees.
If the metal is much hotter than 290 degrees F, the solution will spatter and boil off to quickly leaving a very uneven color.
If the metal is much cooler than 250 degrees F, the solution will start to brown and then deposit a layer of copper. If this happens, you must sand off the copper and start again.
You don't need to neutralize the barrel when using Plum Brown, but you do need to wash the dried solution off between each coating with water and lightly card the metal with fine degreased steel wool.
I have never been able to get away with less than 3 heat/coat cycles without having a somewhat uneven color.
The Browning will look light colored until you apply oil to the surface and let it sit overnight. That changes it to a nice brown.
The hot Plum Brown process IMO works best on smaller parts.
DO THIS OUTSIDE your house. Plum Brown gives off a lot of fumes which are not good for you. I believe Mercury is among the things which boil off during this process.
If the metal is much hotter than 290 degrees F, the solution will spatter and boil off to quickly leaving a very uneven color.
If the metal is much cooler than 250 degrees F, the solution will start to brown and then deposit a layer of copper. If this happens, you must sand off the copper and start again.
You don't need to neutralize the barrel when using Plum Brown, but you do need to wash the dried solution off between each coating with water and lightly card the metal with fine degreased steel wool.
I have never been able to get away with less than 3 heat/coat cycles without having a somewhat uneven color.
The Browning will look light colored until you apply oil to the surface and let it sit overnight. That changes it to a nice brown.
The hot Plum Brown process IMO works best on smaller parts.
DO THIS OUTSIDE your house. Plum Brown gives off a lot of fumes which are not good for you. I believe Mercury is among the things which boil off during this process.
lonewolf5347
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B.Habermehl:which cold brown manufacture do you use @ what are your steps in doing the barrel when adding the chemical to he steel?
The cold brown method seems to give a much deeper treatment which should hold up better than the hot brown method. I have not "tested" either method per se but I do have a gun that has seen over 25 years hunting and shooting that was hot browned which has held up rather well. I put the hole barrel in the oven on that one in order to get what I considered a nice even and pleasing color and uniform coverage. Admittedly I also used half the bottle too. I just repeating the cycle over and over and over and over many times. I have a couple other hot brown barrels where things do not seem to be holding up as well. The barrel where I tried heating small areas never did even out to my liking (really only visible in bright light).
The cold brown method is definately easier to control and get repeatable results. At least that has been my experience. Plus you do not have toxic vapors to contend with. The hot brown does work well on small parts but I find it really is just as easy to go ahead and cold brown them too. The cold brown is very forgiving and really less work and you have more control over testure and color. I only cold brown now. The rusting box is nice to jump start the process in the summer and nice to do the whole process in the winter but not really needed. 20 - 30 minutes twice a day is real easy for me. I can do a treatment in the morning before work and again in the evening after work. No fuss. If something comes up and you need to be away for a couple days simply wash (in cold water and backing soda) and degreese and oil the metal. Do not heat it. Then when you get back dgreeese very very well and start again.
Later once the barrel is finished ... If you bugger up an area simply clean it down to bare metal, degrease and apply the solution to the area to be fixed. You can very easily repair boobos and very worn areas and have them blend very well. Not something that is easily done with the hot brown method.
As to longevity with cold brown ... I have no guns as old as my 25+ hot brown gun. But the cold method is far easier to do, fix, and control that I do not intend to go back.
The cold brown method is definately easier to control and get repeatable results. At least that has been my experience. Plus you do not have toxic vapors to contend with. The hot brown does work well on small parts but I find it really is just as easy to go ahead and cold brown them too. The cold brown is very forgiving and really less work and you have more control over testure and color. I only cold brown now. The rusting box is nice to jump start the process in the summer and nice to do the whole process in the winter but not really needed. 20 - 30 minutes twice a day is real easy for me. I can do a treatment in the morning before work and again in the evening after work. No fuss. If something comes up and you need to be away for a couple days simply wash (in cold water and backing soda) and degreese and oil the metal. Do not heat it. Then when you get back dgreeese very very well and start again.
Later once the barrel is finished ... If you bugger up an area simply clean it down to bare metal, degrease and apply the solution to the area to be fixed. You can very easily repair boobos and very worn areas and have them blend very well. Not something that is easily done with the hot brown method.
As to longevity with cold brown ... I have no guns as old as my 25+ hot brown gun. But the cold method is far easier to do, fix, and control that I do not intend to go back.
I should add that I also tap a tappered dowl rod into the end of the barrel to
1. Keep solution from inside the bore, just as extra insurance
2. To use as a handle
3. To stand the barrel on when setting in a corner when not using the rusting box. This is because I find things turn out more even for me when less metal touches anything during the rusting cycle.
1. Keep solution from inside the bore, just as extra insurance
2. To use as a handle
3. To stand the barrel on when setting in a corner when not using the rusting box. This is because I find things turn out more even for me when less metal touches anything during the rusting cycle.
the missing link
Pilgrim
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Hi you all. Being my first post and me being a complete beginner at this muzzleloading thing, when browning metal parts which parts do I brown besides the barrel? I'm building a lyman gpr. Do I brown the barrel, tang, sights, trigger guard, lock plate,etc. Also I assume that you brown your parts first and then when finished add the sights to the barrel. If so, is there any touch up to be done.
I am just a hooby builder not a professional but ...
I brown all steel hardware. Screws can be browned or fire blued, though I normally fire blue them. On very early guns the lock plate can simply be polished bright. On a GPR I would brown it if it is not color case hardened from the factory.
I have always browned everything and then installed the sights unless it is a front sight that must be soldered on. I use brass drift rods to install sights and have not had to redo anything as a result of that.
Others may do things different.
I brown all steel hardware. Screws can be browned or fire blued, though I normally fire blue them. On very early guns the lock plate can simply be polished bright. On a GPR I would brown it if it is not color case hardened from the factory.
I have always browned everything and then installed the sights unless it is a front sight that must be soldered on. I use brass drift rods to install sights and have not had to redo anything as a result of that.
Others may do things different.
Guest
You're on the right track. I just finished my second GPR a few days ago and I browned all hardware and I sanded the color case hardened lock plate( remove hammer) until it was shiny and I browned it as well. I left the hammer color case hardened because it looks cool that way, blends in quite nicely. Leave the sights off until the browning process ends(Plum Brown Barrel Finish is what I use and it takes a few days before the light rough surface rust stops forming. Coat the browned items with oil, let stand over night, lightly rub with 0000 steel wool and re-oil, let sit over night and repeat the oiling and 0000 steel wool proceedure daily until the gritty surface rust stops appearing ) then install the browned sights. Be sure to install the oval shaped wedge key inlays with the countr sunk holes facing out to receive the tiny woodscrew heads. Learned that from experience! Have fun.
Guest
You're on the right track. I just finished my second GPR a few days ago and I browned all hardware and I sanded the color case hardened lock plate( remove hammer) until it was shiny and I browned it as well. I left the hammer color case hardened because it looks cool that way, blends in quite nicely. Leave the sights off until the browning process ends(Plum Brown Barrel Finish is what I use and it takes a few days before the light rough surface rust stops forming. Coat the browned items with oil, let stand over night, lightly rub with 0000 steel wool and re-oil, let sit over night and repeat the oiling and 0000 steel wool proceedure daily until the gritty surface rust stops appearing ) then install the browned sights. Be sure to install the oval shaped wedge key inlays with the countr sunk holes facing out to receive the tiny woodscrew heads. Learned that from experience! Have fun.
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