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Browning w/ LMF

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jaxenro

40 Cal.
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
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Hi all.

I am refinishing/browning a small colt revolver repro to look like one of the older ones I have seen that has browned all over with age, using the LMF browning solution. Along the way I seem to have mislaid the directions, so this is the steps I have come up with from the different posts here:

1. Remove all old blueing/finish.
2. Thoroughly clean and degrease, using denatured alcohol.
3. Heavily coat bore with protectant, plug bore and other areas not to be browned to protect.
4. Dab on browning solution, do not rub.
5. Place in a humid area for 3 to 4 hours.
6. Card off rust using rough cloth, degreased steel wool, a scotch brite pad, etc.
7. Rinse, repeat steps 4 and 5 until desired color is reached.
8. Rinse in baking soda to stop action.
9. Oil, and enjoy

Does this sound right?

Thanks
 
Howdy Jaxenro
Oil and seal the bore.
Degreasing is not necessary, as barrel brown is formulated to remove all traces of grease and oil, the barrel can even be handled with bare hands at any time during the browning process (except while still wet with solution) without affecting barrel browns's ability to take

To apply barrel brown use a piece of clean cotton cloth folded into a pad about 1# square. moisten pad thoroughly with barrel brown and apply to barrel. being careful to apply brown in a long even coat from muzzle to breech. Do not rub surface of the barrel with barrel brown. Apply barrel brown as evenly as you can with a single coat if possible. Rubbing the surface with barrel brown can cause a metallic copper colored film to form, that will impede the browning process. After applying the first coat of brown, set aside to work for 3 hours. after 3 hours apply a second coat of solution to barrel. The second coat, and all subsequent coats, is applied very sparingly to the barrel suface. only enought barrel brown should be applied to dampen the suface. this will minimize the chances of pitting due to too vigourous action, or streaking due to unevenness of application. Too heavy an application of solution can also remove the existing brown, lengthiening the browning process. after letting the second coat work for 3 hours, rub the surface of the barrel wtih a piece of coarse cloth dipped in hot tap water. this step removes the surface scale that has built up and evens the brown. after scrubbing the barrel, flood the surface with hot tap water and dry. repeat the cycle of applying barrel brown, letting work 3 hours and scaling barrel, 4 to 5 times more, until the desired color has been achieved.
Note: if you cannot get back to the barrel within 3 hours of applying a coat of brown do not apply another coat after scaling. just scale the barrel and set aside until you are ready to resume browning
To stop further action after browning has been coompleted, scrub the suface of the barrel using a saturated solution of hot tap water and baking soda. rinse the barrel with clear warm water and allow to dry. to finish the barrel, apply wax or boiled linseed oil.

This is the directions they send with the bottle. If you need anything else hollar, maybe I can help.
Killit
 
Thanks

I don't mind some light pitting, as I am trying to replicate that old used, pitted, patina'd brown look some used revolvers get after 140+ years. But I don't want the streaking.
 
I've had very good results just following the directions... your interpretation looks pretty close. I have found that the first and second coating may look a bit streaky, but from there on with a good carding (I use rough old towel scraps), the color is very good and even. Humidity is really the key with LMF IMHO.
 
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