Verdegris: your question is sort of a tough one because there is no easy answer. If you want to be pc- and that's my impression- then you'll have to be happy with rather thin leather that might wear out pretty quickly. The eastern style was a thin leather buckskin moccasin. Replacing moccasins should be viewed as part of the cost of this past time, just like buying powder and lead.
You could probably go with 4 oz oak tanned "carving" type leather and leave the rough side out to resemble brain tan. That would last a lot longer than any suede type leather.
One issue I have is we don't know (or at least I don't) just how "tanned" the original buck skin woodland moccasins were. If they were only partially tanned perhaps they lasted a little longer.
One option, although not ideal, would be to make several pairs, a "real" pair for treks in the woods and a duplicate pair with a sole on the bottom. If this sole is undersized you won't see it while walking. This second pair could be worn at events, shooting ranges, etc where sand and gravel may otherwise eat up the leather.
A while back we had a big go at whether the Eastern woodland style should or should not have a notch in the toe area. I can't remember the final outcome but I think we came to the conclusion in the Southeast there was no notch in the toe area while in the Northeast there was or probably was, a notch in the toe area.Getting this notch right is quite a task if you want the toe properly formed, keep using the felt, etc to get the proper pattern.
If you are really a fanatic, try surfing the net for the BATA shoe museum in Canada or check out past issues of Whispering Winds magazine. Good Luck.
