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Building a Flintlock

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Ohioan

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I want to build a flintlock. I'm looking for a 95-98% inlet stock, just plan maple or slightly curly maple in either Transitional or Virginia style. Iron hardware. a 36" barrel in .58 or 62. cal.

I do not have the tools to do a whole lot of metal work, but I do know someone who would be willing to help me with cutting the sight and tennon grooves. I'd like the barrel to be drilled and tapped for the breech plug and the vent to be drilled and tapped.

I've looked at Sitting Fox, Pecatonica River and Tennessee Valley Muzzle Loaders and Jim Chambers. My father purchased his stock from TVM and was pleased. Jim Chambers are the most expensive and out of my price range. Sitting Fox was the cheapest which makes me nervous.

I'd like to spend less that $600.

This will be my first attempt and building a muzzle loader. I have shot lots of them before and are familiar with parts and how they go together.


My question is this, any suggestions as to what lock, barrel and trigger to use? Sitting Fox uses L&R for lock and trigger, TVM uses GM barrels, Siler locks and Davis triggers. Pecatonica uses the same. And of course, Chambers uses Siler locks.

There are a lot of different parts out there. I need some guidance.

Thanks!
 
I would post the are of the Country you are in like City & State, and try and find someone who has built a Gun before to be your Mentor, and assist you in the process.

I personally am a KLUTZ, and could turn a 600 Buck Kit into 25 Bucks worth of SCRAP.

This is not a project for those who are KLUTZES, and as I said or maybe did not.

Turning one of these KITs into a Fine Rifle is a Big Accomplishment, and require lots of time, and many tools....
:shocked2:
 
I would give Jack Garner a call at Jack's Stock shop.
He can set you up with a nice/low priced/ first time set of parts for your price range..
I can't find his phone number but here is his e-mail. Nice southern gentelman that has been making resonable priced gun kits for years.
[email protected]
 
Forgot to suggest the Build a Muzzle loader by Chuck Dixon of Dixon GunShop in PA

If I was going to buy a KIT, I would first think about Rifle Style

BEST KITS IMHO as far as QUAILTY COMPONANTS

Chambers (Jim) that is....
 
There are many supply houses and if you don't have a TOW catalog, I'd send for one. Can't beat full size photos of hardware and they also have kits. Your bbl of choice should have a breechplug installed....for a first timer this can be very difficult. The TH liner should be installed after the lock is completely inletted. From your post you know what you want so procuring the parts is just a matter of enjoyable research....Good Luck.....Fred
 
Well, I've changed my mind. I no longer want a virginia or transitional. (I did a lot of research).
I want either a Bivens or Beck rifle. 44" barrel swamped barrel. (probably ordered from TOTW, unless I find something better at friendship. i'm thinking Rice, or if I feel like some extra work to save $70, I'll go with Colerain.
Now, I'm trying to decide what caliber and barrel profile.
What the gun will be used for:
Mainly target shooting. I will hopefully be shooting a lot. I'm a teacher, so I have summers off.
Occasional deer hunting. The area I live in the longest range shot I would take would probably be 50-60yrds.
So, do I get a .40 "A" or "B" profile? A .45 in a "B" profile ? Or a .50 in a "B" or "C" profile?
.40: I'd be afraid to take a deer with it. I'm not sure how it would be able to ring some of the heavy gongs we use on our woodswalk, but it'd be okay for punching paper. It would use the least amount of lead and powder, making shooting cheaper, which leads to more practice. Weight in a "B" profile: 5.14lbs

.45: Perfectly capable of handling a deer at the distances I will be shooting. I'm not sure how it would be against a wild hog if I should encouter one. If at sometime in the future I decide to go hunt bear or elk, I don't think I'd be able to use a .45. It would be able to handle the target work I would want. It would use less powder and lead than the .50. In a "B" profile will be pretty light. 4.72 lbs.
.50: Capable of handling deer, hog, and bear. Perfectly capable of handling the target work. It would cost more on powder and lead. It would be the lightest barrel in a "B" profile at 4.2lbs.

Now that I have this all typed out, .50 seems the way to go for me. I need to take a look at powder and lead prices. Well, I have a lot of lead on hand in ingots. So, that's not really a problem. (several hundred lbs of lead). Powder price then.
 
I'd avoid getting something with too much work already done on it. That type of kit can be harder to build than one with less of the work done.

You are falling into the same trap that many first time builders do (including me! :) ) and that is allowing your lack of confidence to lead you to thinking that having the lock inlet, vent hole drilled etc. will make it a more manageable project. Truth is, it makes it harder because now you are stuck with those parts locations and they probably won't fit.

My suggestion is to get a few books on building and then start in one step at a time. Get a stock with the barrel inlet and the ramrod hole drilled but without the lock inlet and certainly a barrel without the vent hole drilled :shocked2: )

Mind you, I'm a klutz builder myself with only one scratch build and four kit builds under my belt, but the above is what I've learned from first hand experience even thought the limited experiecne of an admitted "Klutz". :redface:
 
The Colerain barrels do not have the vents drilled. Neither do the Rice.
 
The Colerain barrels do not have the vents drilled. Neither do the Rice.

Yes, I knlw that, but the original post this :

I'd like the barrel to be drilled and tapped for the breech plug and the vent to be drilled and tapped.

Therefore, I cautioned against it assuming that he may have found a supplier willing to go ahead and vent a kit barrel for him. I doubt any supplier would do it, but. . . . . . who knows?
 
You really shouldn't put a touch hole liner or a straight drilled vent hole in the barrel, until it and the lock are installed in the stock. Otherwise, you are taking a big chance of them not lining up.

Once installed and bolted/pinned into place, the touch hole can easily marked and installed.

Get a White Lightnin touch hole and kit from Chabers. It will include the liner, properly sized drill bit and tap. Easy to install and the best liner out there.

Hope that helps. :grin:
 
I'd recomend that before you order your parts you order a few books. I'd recommend Peter Alexanders "The Gunsmith of Grenville County" and or "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle" by Dixon, Ehrig & Miller.
Take some time and read them, then re-read them. Once you have digested some of the information, you can start thinking about what you want to build. You'll have a better idea of the process and may feel more confident about inleting the lock, etc. A little homework now will result in a rifle you'll treasure for years.
 
I would give Tip Curtis a call, maybe someone mentioned him, (I missed it). I would bet he would have what you are looking for. flinch
 
What I might suggest is call the ladies at MLS
[url] http://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com/[/url]

Tell them what you want, how much you want to spend, and listen to thier advice.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I got back from Friendship at 8 p.m last night. Let me tell you, I've never had more fun in my life! I'm going to suggest,nay demand, that if you are considering building a kit and have never done so, GO TO FRIENDSHIP.

I went with an idea of what I wanted (PA stock, Siler Flint Lock, .50 Rice or Colerain barrel, brass, and a single trigger). But, I had an open mind as to who I would my kit from.

All of the major suppliers were there. Pecatonica, Chambers, Dunlop, Curtis, Muzzle Loaders Builders supply.

There were several well known builders there that were more than happy to answer questions. I wrote down some questions I wanted answered Friday night just to kind of think things over, though I didn't pull the list out and ask if they could answer question number 206 for me.

Right inside the gate was Pecatonica River. They had a Dickert style kit that had an absolutely beautiful grade-4 curly maple stock on it. The kit had a .54 "C" weight Green Mountain barrel. They didn't have any .50 "C" weights with them, but were willing to ship one to me. While I thought it over I looked at some of the GM barrels they had in stock. Man, the quality of barrel was pretty random. Some had no crown to them, some did. Some were finished pretty nice, some weren't. And the breech plug was not installed, which is something I wanted. I was worried about the quality of barrel so I decided against the kit. Which is sad because that was one beautiful piece of lumber! If you're looking for a high grade stock, check them out.

I walked on down the line and saw a gentleman that had some Colerain barrels. I took a look at them and inspected the quality. I had not handled any Colerain, GM, or Rice swamped barrels before, so I wanted to get a feel for each one. He wanted $185 for a barrel. Same price as TOW.

I walked on through the sheep sheds and came up on Tiger-Hunt Gunstocks. They had a Rupp-style finished rifle on display. I explained to the shop keeper that I was wanting to build a rifle. I asked if I could shoulder the Rupp to see how it fit me. He said sure thing! So, I grabbed her up and shouldered her and lo' and behold, my thumb was about an inch in front of my nose and blocked my sight line! I had to hold the rifle in an uncomfortable way to keep my hand out of the way. I laughed and said that stock wasn't for me. I don't want a bloody nose each time I fire my rifle. Tiger-Hunt also had pre-carved Indian ball clubs of various shape and quality. I think I might buy one of those in the spring. They had a few styles of stocks, but I just wasn't happy with them. They didn't seem as nice as the Pecatonica wood.

The next shop of major importance I came to was the Rice Barrel Co. That's right they had company representatives on site! They had dissected barrels showing the mirrored polish finish on the inside. I asked about a .50 "C" weight barrel and they had one in stock. The Rep. practically begged me to handle the barrel. I of course obliged him. The quality of the Rice barrel is amazing and is just one of those things you don't see until you inspect the details of them and compare them to the Colerain and GM. First off, the outside finish is very close to being perfect. Some slight draw filing and you're set! The breech plug was fit so well that I couldn't tell were the plug ended and the barrel began. After getting to look at the barrel first hand, I was convinced that Rice was the way to go. Out of curiosity I asked the Rep. what he thought of coning the barrel. He basically said that he’s neutral. The way he explained it, as long as there the rifling stays in contact before there are any nice or such things, accuracy shouldn’t be affected. He said the guy in the next booth, Mike Miller, cones barrels just about all day. He told me I should go over and look at them.

So, my next stop was Mike Millers place. Mike was talking to another gentleman when I walked up. I wanted to see what the barrel looked like so I just kind of peaked in at it. I was looking at the very pretty design and Mike told me to pick up the Jeager and take a look at it. This is the same rifle that was featured in the current Muzzle Blasts. I looked it over and found it to be very ornate and a fine piece of workmanship. I asked Mike about his finishing techniques and he was very helpful in explaining the procedures for the different style of finishes on the rifles. Then we talked about finishing barrels. I probably talked to Mike for about 45 minutes. I told him I was interested in building kits, and he told me the only kit he would even bother to mess with was Chambers.

I walked on down the row of the sheep shed to Homer Dangler’s booth. Homer was busy talking to a pair of gentlemen but his wife was still very interesting to talk to. Homer has a couple of DVDs that I was interested in. One on building long rifles, the other on carving long rifles. Homer also had one of the most beautiful pieces of wood I have ever seen, gunstock or other. It was bird’s eye maple that had figure on every single inch of the rifle. BEAUTIFUL!

Well, the next booth of interest I came to was Jim Chambers. When I approached, Jim was busy selling one of his Jeager books. The book itself was $145, and then the translation was another $35! Expensive. When Jim had sold the book, he came over to me. I asked to look at a finished York rifle. It shouldered perfectly for me. The balance of the 42in “C” .50 was excellent. Jim showed me the unfinished stock. Now, by this time I had looked at the pieces from Pecatonica and Tiger-Hunt. Jim’s stock had the best inletting done of any I had seen. The one stock he had there had a wooden patch box inlet in the stock. I didn’t really want to mess with a patchbox on my first stock. I was conscerned about screwing it up. Jim showed me the state his Rice barrels come in. The dovetails were cut for the front sight and all three underlugs. TOW charges $15 to cut a single dovetail! The rear sight is not done because everyone’s eyes are different so the rear sight location will be different. I asked him if he had one without the patchbox. He said that their stocks were from Dunlop and there were a box of stocks in the back of their truck. He wasn’t sure what was in it but he would go at take a look to see if he had one.

Well, while I was waiting I walked down to Tip Curtis to take a look at his kits. I looked at some of his kits in various stages. He had some nice stocks, but the kits just weren’t to the level of the Chambers. I went back to Chambers to make sure I got my pick of stocks if there were any more Yorks in the box he brought back.

Jim went and brought back the box. There wasn’t a York in there. I asked how difficult the wooden patchboxes were to fit. Jim told me they were pretty simple. He showed me that the patchbox had the dovetails already inlet. He showed me the finished wooden patch box on the finished York and explained that all I would have to do is sand the dovetail a little, cut off the extra wood and shape the lid. I was quite excited. It would be simple. While I was standing there trying to decide whether I should buy the kit, Mr. Chambers cut $50 off the price. I was still trying to decide and he then through in one of his DVD’s on building his kits! I was excited. So, I decided I had to have it. While my father was writing a check (I forgot my checkbook) he added that he wanted one of Jim’s mainspring vices. Jim threw it in for free also! Jim Chambers will definitely work with you. The only downside is, he has to mail a barrel, a ramrod, patchbox spring and trigger guard. Barbie said it would be 6-8 weeks for the barrel to get shipped, bummer. I brought the stock and parts home. I’m going to get started on everything but the barrel. Jim told me that if I get stumped on something, to not be afraid to call him and ask a question.

About 2 weeks ago I called Track of the Wolf and asked if they were going to be at Friendship. The guy on the phone laughed at me! He said that the owners do all of their business through the internet and they have no need to go to Friendship. Well, my experience has shown me that I need to support those who go to Friendship and allow people to get their paws on the products before they buy.

Go to Friendship if you can. You won’t regret it!
 
Congradulatons on your purchase. I know its hard to wait to start, but I would wait for the barrel. The barrel is the heart of the gun, thats why its always the first thing inleted. It gives the forestock and forearm support during working one the stock. And allot of things even on a pre-inlet stock are barrel dependant. Second you should let your wood stablize to your shop. Where you live maybe drier or more humid then where the stock was stored, it needs to be allowed to adjust. I'd let her sit at least a week or more. Watch your DVD, gather the tools and supplies you need to do the job right, six weeks will be gone in a flash.
 
I have no idea who you spoke to at Track but, if you drive up to Elk River MN you can see all of their products first hand in their retail store.
 
Agree 100% about going to Friendship if possible. Fortunately it's only a 2 hour drive for me but I would go at least once a year even if it was farther.

I also agree about giving as much business to vendors who go to the trouble and expense to be there. In the spring I ordered a kit from Pecatonica River. I wasn't sure what I wanted but being able to talk to people and handle different things helped a lot. TOW was originally at the top of my list but since they weren't there they didn't get my business. The Pecatonica people were great though so no loss on my part. I also picked up miscelaneous parts for a scratchbuilt pistol and powder. Last Saturday I got a few other parts including some touch holes from Chambers and more powder. I had ordered an L&R replacement lock from TOW a couple weeks ago. If I had known L&R was going to be at Friendship I would have waited just so I could give my business in person.

Dale
 
OOOOH! It's been 2 weeks.. so only 4-6 left! It's killing me. I keep fondling my stock. I want to start on it sooooo bad.

I hate waiting...
 

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