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I have Rosin Core solder. Looking at plain solder it looks like its more lead. I can get 50/50 at the box store Canadian Tire, just my local one doesn't have any. Will have to wait until I go to the big city!50/50 is about as plain and old as you can get , LOL . You might want to try an experiment with what you got . I've always stayed with 50/50 , no core flux stuff just plain solder just because I soldered lanterns with it for over 20 yrs. so I know it well . Unfortunately I can't advise you on any other type because I just font know . I would think any solder would be good and strong but I've never tried any other . If you could solder some practices pieces and see youd be getting some knowledge . I remember my first solder joint practices and then beating the lugs sideways with tools to see how strong they were , LOL ...never had one move but did deform the lug . Best of luck
Why dont you try that rosin core bud . If it dont work its easy to file and wire wheel the barrel clean again , its on bottom too ... It might be just fine . Just keep that flame moving around heating barrel and lug not CE and slowly , that barrel is s heck of a heat sink . I put the Breech in a vice , bottom of barrel up , front supported. I can sight down the barrel to make sure the lugs are centered , and when all three are on there that they all line up straight . It doesn't have to be perfect but the straighter the better ... I have all lug positions marked with a ring around barrel , marker , then I wire wheel spot clean , ring mark still visible on sides , I flux the lug , after wire wheel , and flux the barrel. Rub it a bit , both ....I have needle nose near by at all times ....I flatten solder with hammer flat . I start heating the barrel on both sides of the lug , lug on barrel. And something underneath a's it will fall a couple times unfortunately , LOL .... Back and forth with the heat going over the lug top too slowly but not stopping , it'll burn the flux ....when flux starts to sizzle a bit t, torch in one hand solder it other , take flat solder and just touch the front or rear of lug , it'll take couple times but the solder will melt eventually band the solder will be sucked under the lug , keep that torch moving over barrel and lug , if it never does suck the solder under grab the needle nose and look under the lug , it'll probably be black , te flux the barrel and lug , wipe them ....then , do it all again . I know , I know ...its a slow pain . dont let it cool down ....reflux then lug back up there . When it does suck the solder under there , front and back , you sight down the barrel. do rear most lug first and sight down from rear , and center it straight up and down , touch with pliers or the like to center it ... You'll see the solder change color , from shiney to dull , and its set ..... then ....on to the next lug .... For test you can take a tool of sorts and slide it down barrel hitting g the lug on the side ... Good luck bud .I have Rosin Core solder. Looking at plain solder it looks like its more lead. I can get 50/50 at the box store Canadian Tire, just my local one doesn't have any. Will have to wait until I go to the big city!
Awesome instructions! I'll give her a go. I have an octagon barrel, just round the last 4" at the muzzle so I have a flat to work off! That should make lining them up easier.Why dont you try that rosin core bud . If it dont work its easy to file and wire wheel the barrel clean again , its on bottom too ... It might be just fine . Just keep that flame moving around heating barrel and lug not CE and slowly , that barrel is s heck of a heat sink . I put the Breech in a vice , bottom of barrel up , front supported. I can sight down the barrel to make sure the lugs are centered , and when all three are on there that they all line up straight . It doesn't have to be perfect but the straighter the better ... I have all lug positions marked with a ring around barrel , marker , then I wire wheel spot clean , ring mark still visible on sides , I flux the lug , after wire wheel , and flux the barrel. Rub it a bit , both ....I have needle nose near by at all times ....I flatten solder with hammer flat . I start heating the barrel on both sides of the lug , lug on barrel. And something underneath a's it will fall a couple times unfortunately , LOL .... Back and forth with the heat going over the lug top too slowly but not stopping , it'll burn the flux ....when flux starts to sizzle a bit t, torch in one hand solder it other , take flat solder and just touch the front or rear of lug , it'll take couple times but the solder will melt eventually band the solder will be sucked under the lug , keep that torch moving over barrel and lug , if it never does suck the solder under grab the needle nose and look under the lug , it'll probably be black , te flux the barrel and lug , wipe them ....then , do it all again . I know , I know ...its a slow pain . dont let it cool down ....reflux then lug back up there . When it does suck the solder under there , front and back , you sight down the barrel. do rear most lug first and sight down from rear , and center it straight up and down , touch with pliers or the like to center it ... You'll see the solder change color , from shiney to dull , and its set ..... then ....on to the next lug .... For test you can take a tool of sorts and slide it down barrel hitting g the lug on the side ... Good luck bud .
Oh shoot ...I forgot about it being Oct. bud .... You can dovetail them in if you prefer . Takes a three corner fileAwesome instructions! I'll give her a go. I have an octagon barrel, just round the last 4" at the muzzle so I have a flat to work off! That should make lining them up easier.
Nope , no YouTube VDOs made here bud . But now I want to check them out and see ! LOL ... Just a bench I threw together in 2004 or 2005 out of scrap wood I found and jaw I found ...the screw part I bought for $5 in 1996 and been carrying around with me since . Has served me well over the years .Late to the party as usual, but is that bench used in a series of youtube videos on building a flintlock rifle from scratch? It sure looks like the same workshop.
Very nice work so far, thanks for sharing it!
I may do a very shallow dovetail by hand. Scott at Colerain says there's enough thickness there. Soldering will also save a potential screw up on that part as well!Oh shoot ...I forgot about it being Oct. bud .... You can dovetail them in if you prefer . Takes a three corner file
I may do a very shallow dovetail by hand. Scott at Colerain says there's enough thickness there. Soldering will also save a potential screw up on that part as well!
Just with a milling machine for new front site on an unmentionable after I cut the barrel back and recontoured it. I have a bit of scrap material I can do a trial on.Yeah , I had forgot about your barrel . Dovetail it bud . both ways are a pain but dovetail ain't bad ? Have you done that before ?
I have seen that before but I have never done it , utilized it and I certainly should ! Its a great idea . Thanks for posting it ...I really need to try this out ....@Rob - Did you ever see the 'trick' to hold a lug in place with a 4" or longer spring or piece of a broken hacksaw blade, to function like a spring clamp?
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Rob this is the video I confused with your work shop, looking back I see he has a pattern makers vise, but the window proximity to your bench was familiar.
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