Builds......where to start?

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Every time i had some kind of "project" or something to fix around the home, my wife would say" that looks easy, it shouldn't take you long"! Un Huh, right, It's always "easy" for the person who doesn't have to do it, and has never had to deal with "Murphy" when they are doing it!! Go with a good solid kit!!! IMHO
 
I'd have to say that you pretty well hit the nail dead center on the head there.

I think I am leaning more towards round balls now vs conicals.

As always I appreciate the honesty. I may still be a pup but I won't get offended like the rest of my snowflake generation.


Most of my big grand ideas have changed since reading through these responses.


Some of these ideas about my imaginary platform were dumb (and I'll readily admit that), but hey I had to start somewhere.



I guess I was wondering if that platform would all jive together before I got started with a build......but I'll definitely start with a kit first.


Thank you,
Ben
Ben, I strongly recommend one of Jim Kibler's kits. You will wind up with an elegant and functional rifle that you will be proud to own. Oh, and rifles are more useful than pistols. Welcome to the world of muzzleloading!
 
I'd have to say that you pretty well hit the nail dead center on the head there.

I think I am leaning more towards round balls now vs conicals.

As always I appreciate the honesty. I may still be a pup but I won't get offended like the rest of my snowflake generation.


Most of my big grand ideas have changed since reading through these responses.


Some of these ideas about my imaginary platform were dumb (and I'll readily admit that), but hey I had to start somewhere.



I guess I was wondering if that platform would all jive together before I got started with a build......but I'll definitely start with a kit first.


Thank you,
Ben
Hi Ben,
I've built over 10 guns in my life time, I know some of the people on the forum have built so many more and have better skills than I have, with saying that I feel that the Kibler kits are where you should look. I've built two of them and they are great kits, easy to build and will give you great rifle, not to mention you can go on You Tube and watch one being built! Anyways good luck in your search!
Rich
 
OP.

If you want to build a rifle, build a rifle. Only you know whether you have what it takes to build a rifle from scratch. If it's a dream of yours, do it. Life is too short to cast aside one's dreams.

If you've been working with your hands all your life while being buried by the honey do list, chances are you can build a rifle. If you've worn a pocket protector to work every day and drink triple soy lattes with extra sea kelp out of a save the whales mug, chances are you can't.

Assembling a collection of finished parts will not give you the type of internal satisfaction you appear to be looking for. It's like wanting a '57 Harley-Davidson Sportster and settling for an '87 Honda Rebel.

Map out what you want. Gather up the parts. And build that sucker.
 
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OP.

If you want to build a rifle, build a rifle. Only you know whether you have what it takes to build a rifle from scratch. If it's a dream of yours, do it. Life is too short to cast aside one's dreams.

If you've been working with your hands all your life while being buried by the honey do list, chances are you can build a rifle. If you've worn a pocket protector to work every day and drink triple soy lattes with extra sea kelp out of a save the whales mug, chances are you can't.

Assembling a collection of finished parts will not give you the type of internal satisfaction you appear to be looking for. It's like wanting a '57 Harley-Davidson Sportster and settling for an '87 Honda Rebel.

Map out what you want. Gather up the parts. And build that sucker.

I know I'm kind of a virgin member but this is a great forum. Not used to all the constructive criticism and the positivity and encouragement. I love it. Wish I was on this years ago.


If what you're saying about those two types of people is true, I'll give it a shot because I have no clue what a pocket protector is.


This is a dream currently but it will be a reality........ Someday........after the honey do list is caught up on....
 
I know I'm kind of a virgin member but this is a great forum. Not used to all the constructive criticism and the positivity and encouragement. I love it. Wish I was on this years ago.


If what you're saying about those two types of people is true, I'll give it a shot because I have no clue what a pocket protector is.


This is a dream currently but it will be a reality........ Someday........after the honey do list is caught up on....
FYI …shirt pocket protectors were standard equipment of the 1950s version of technogeeks…these same freaks often kept their slide rule (a functions calculator on a stick) in their shirt pocket which then needed protection.
Pocket protectors, slide rules, typewriters, buggy whips and laudanum were common items used by the ancient geezers giving you all this advice…
some of them are so old they were busboys at the last supper.
 
FYI …shirt pocket protectors were standard equipment of the 1950s version of technogeeks…these same freaks often kept their slide rule (a functions calculator on a stick) in their shirt pocket which then needed protection.
Pocket protectors, slide rules, typewriters, buggy whips and laudanum were common items used by the ancient geezers giving you all this advice…
some of them are so old they were busboys at the last supper.
heck, I went to high school with Moses!
 
Go ahead and cut the wood and get it to the kiln. While it's drying you can decide on the hardware.
 
I put together a .40 earlier this year and have over $800 in parts. A (lh) Siler large percussion was $175 and a (lh) large Siler flintlock was $225. If I recall correctly, I paid $200 for my Rice .40 caliber barrel. Just in case anyone is checking online prices, Pecatonica's prices are not correct, the web site hasn't been updated to reflect the current prices.

I placed an order with Pecatonica a couple weeks ago for a full parts set for a Tennessee Mtn rifle. Total with shipping? A hair over $850

This is a dream currently but it will be a reality........ Someday........after the honey do list is caught up on....

This may have already been mentioned, it's been a long read! 😀 but, i suggest that you cut your wood and get it drying and then purchase a kit like one of these. Traditions Muzzleloading Rifle Kits: Kits will not be sold to NJ Residents they are easy to build if you just follow instructions. Less easy if you set out to do an exceptional job of it. There will be a lot of little problems to solve and that will make it a good learning experience. You can do a follow along here and get help solving problems from experienced people here. You will have a functional rifle when done and will know if you want to move on to something more difficult.

Also, get a good book on building. While you wouldn't be doing all the steps outlined in the book, but if you study it and relate to what you are doing with a kit you will learn a lot.

You have already seen many recommendations for a Kibler kit and they are fantastic. A finished Kibler will be a fine example of period correct and excellent architecture. BUT, you won't learn much. The Kibler kit is extraordinary in that just about anyone can complete one on the kitchen table. It's the key to Kiblers success. If all you are after is a fine completed rifle Kibler is the way to go but not if you want more of a challenge.
 
Hi all,

Hope this is the right spot to post this:

Brand new to the forum but not new to flintlocks. Grew up in Wayne County, PA behind a T/C Hawken 50. I've hunted with it quite successfully the past 15 years and still love it but I find myself wanting something more "meaningful"??? If that's the word

I'd like to build (well, most likely semi-build) a longrifle. I've compiled a list of specs the past few years and I'll be honest up front......my imaginary rifle will not be historically correct. Is that a sin?

The lines and shape of the Southern Mountain/Tennessee (SM/T) rifle stocks really catch my eye. However, so does the brass furniture on my T/C, unlike the iron furniture on the SM/Ts.

I hunt deer/black bear here in PA but someday I'd like to chase an elk or other big game so .50 or .54 would be preferable. However, I understand they're not common calibers in a SM/T.

That all being said........as far as lock, stock, and barrel are concerned--which do I start with first?

Deluxe siler, golden age, or late ketland with a rainproof pan?

I'd like to cut a cherry or maple blank off the farm and send it out to have it made into a SM/T but where would I send it?

Straight octagon barrel with a breech plug and tenons for ease and assurance of a good cleaning......also with a twist rate that maxi-hunter or buffalo bullets would prefer over PRB.


Other than not being HC, do any of you guys think there are functional problems/cons with this blueprint for a hunting scenario? Just looking for some advice on how and where to start.

I apologize about the length. Thank you for your time and consideration. I look forward to what knowledge some of you modern mountain men may impart.

Merry Christmas,
Ben from PA
I’m in the first stages of a rifle build. If you get a stick that is preinlet, go with one that is barrel inlet only and inlet the lock and tang/breech plug yourself. Trust me. Will save a lot of stress. I like the Siler locks. Have one on my TVM rifle and am using a Large Deluxe on this build.

Also. Buy at least four complete sets of screws. You’ll be putting it together and taking it apart repetitively and the screws will get buggered up. Have a few sets and when you have it all ready for final fit and finish, you’ll have brand new unused screws to fit and install.

Last, and understand that I never have done this before, you’re gonna make mistakes but if you go super slow, think a lot before you cut, file, sand, drill or hammer, those mistakes will be minor and repairable. So far in as much as I have experienced already.

Now, as far as the rifle itself, I’m more of the type that likes what I like and not trying to be constrained by what is period correct or traditional etc. I have a look I am after and I picked all my parts Al a cart. So I have my work cut out for me. YMMV. But it is fun and I’m already thinking on my next build.

YouTube is a great resource. Look up machinist and wood working videos also. How to cut threads. Plug holes, make tools because you’ll have a problem that can only be solved by a custom made one-off tool. Learn to sharpen chisels and get the best you can afford and they need to be hair shaving sharp. Get good screwdrivers. Gunsmith drivers that fit screws perfectly. Even then, you’ll mess up screws so get a lot of extras.

Sand paper and a good set of files, a farriers rasp and small combination file.

Brass and steel drive punches too!


About all I can think of. Which reminds me. I have to do some adjustments this evening if I have the time.

Good luck and have fun. I’m loving it!
 
Some VERY interesting replies ! Just a funny thing from me ... Everything has gotten SO d@mn expensive ! A lot of my builds I'm proud of because the cost was so low for whatever reason ... it ain't often though . I just picked up a 160+ year old barrel this weekend for $10 so it ought to be an interesting and inexpensive build . With short , cheap , antique shotgun barrels its common for me to build a gun for myself or family for around $220 sometimes less if a deal on a good flintlock happens , but thats darn rare ... I ain't buying no cheapo lock . Trade guns are the easiest to build " on the cheap " because the parts are so easy to make from scrap metal ... Just interesting and fun is all ...
 

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As I have no experience building I will just repeat, 54 for elk. 58 if you like but in PA 54 is good for anything legal. Swamped barrel is a huge plus. Also as
I hunt in PA too I’d suggest a barrel no longer than 38” due to pushing thru brush.
No matter what you get you will enjoy it.
 
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