Built a pistol loading stand

[wiksmo]

When I went to my first BP range shoot last weekend, I had no idea this pistol loading equipment was needed. So I decided to build one. I'm definitely more prepared for my next range time!

 

[jdw276]

Nice, you will a lot of compliments when they see it at the range.

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

The stand looks great ! It should simplify your loading process.

 

[Blogman]

Nice build, sturdy.

 

[Zonie]

wiksmo:

Looks good but, if your going to use it like it is, use thin patches with the ball's so the force needed to load them will be small.

At the moment, there is really nothing supporting the back of the grip in line with the barrel. When you force the patched ball into the muzzle, the unsupported grip is the only thing that is there to take the load. More than a few pistols stock grips have been broken when this happens.

To keep this from happening, add another block of wood, covered with a piece of felt or leather, in line or just below the center of the barrel.
Ideally, when you place the gun into a loading stand with a good support, the back of the stock grip will come to a rest on the cushioned support while the butt of the grip stops against the block of wood at the bottom. The barrel usually won't be resting on the wooden upright.

Because your guns grip has a slight bump or "saw handle" shape on the back of the stock grip, it is the area that should be supported.

I know I shouldn't be critical but I also know there's about a dozen other members who are thinking the same thing so I figured I'd beat them to it. :thumbs up:

 

[wiksmo]

"Looks good." for your comment on that.

I posted this DIY project to learn what/if all looked okay. That's because I had no pattern to build the stand, and had only seen one other pistol loading stand at the BP shoot. Interesting that you noted "there's about a dozen other MLF members who are thinking the same thing." Sufficient warning! Agreed, I'd rather not have the stock grip break, so should correct.

OK on your first comment. I am using thin patches and they worked well. I think the force to load a round ball is light.

Question on how to "rest" the back of grip on the additional felt-wrapped wood. Should the point of the "saw handle" be what contacts/rests on the added wood? Or maybe a little lower than the "point"? Not sure how to position it. I think I can add another block though, and will put some cushioning on it.

Maybe I'm off in this thinking. Since the barrel will not rest on the back wall of the stand (e.g. in the v-notch I cut), it seems that I'll have to put some type of "cushion/spacer" on the inside of both side walls to keep the pistol from tipping into a side wall. Is that needed from what you can see?

TIA. I'm glad I got (what I think) a decent start on this, and decided to show it to experienced pistol shooters for help. :*)

wiksmo:

Looks good but, if your going to use it like it is, use thin patches with the ball's so the force needed to load them will be small.

At the moment, there is really nothing supporting the back of the grip in line with the barrel. When you force the patched ball into the muzzle, the unsupported grip is the only thing that is there to take the load. More than a few pistols stock grips have been broken when this happens.

To keep this from happening, add another block of wood, covered with a piece of felt or leather, in line or just below the center of the barrel.
Ideally, when you place the gun into a loading stand with a good support, the back of the stock grip will come to a rest on the cushioned support while the butt of the grip stops against the block of wood at the bottom. The barrel usually won't be resting on the wooden upright.

Because your guns grip has a slight bump or "saw handle" shape on the back of the stock grip, it is the area that should be supported.

I know I shouldn't be critical but I also know there's about a dozen other members who are thinking the same thing so I figured I'd beat them to it. :thumbs up:

 

[Zonie]

There's nothing wrong with the pistol barrel making contact with the upright wood but the thing that stops the vertical movement should be under the grip. Not down at the bottom of the grip next to the grip cap.

Yes, it could be supporting the saw handle lump or it could be supporting the wood above or below it. The thing is, something in the upper area of the grip needs to provide resistance to the forces that start the patched ball and that push the patched ball down the barrel.
There isn't any "right" or "wrong" way to do this so just add something that will do the supporting.

This will almost make the stand a thing that is only good for one pistol because each new pistol will have a slightly different shaped curvature on the rear of the grip but that's another story**. For now, just add something that can provide the necessary support.

** If you plan on buying some other pistols you might want to make this support block removable so new blocks could be made for new muzzleloading pistols.

 

[SDSmlf]

Hi wiksmo. I am one of the Dirty Dozen Zonie referred to. It has been years since I owed or shot a TC Patriot pistol. They were historically prone to stocks breaking, depending on how you loaded and abused it. What we used back in the day (pre internet) to avoid breaking stocks were blocks similar to what Zonie suggested. We got close with our primitive carving skills and then used epoxy or fiberglass to get us that perfect fit. Covering it with felt or similar as it sets up if will looked good and fit like a custom glove. And most importantly, supported and protected our stock from breaking.

 

[wiksmo]

~~~ Got it! Very helpful knowing there isn't a "right" or "wrong" way to do the support, or that it is needed at a particular point on the grip back. A little more fun ahead in the shop.

I can also see this being a "unique" stand to my Trapper. At the moment, I haven't considered another pistol. But as enjoyable as this time has been learning about BP and shooting the Trapper, another pistol just might happen.

There's nothing wrong with the pistol barrel making contact with the upright wood but the thing that stops the vertical movement should be under the grip. Not down at the bottom of the grip next to the grip cap.

Yes, it could be supporting the saw handle lump or it could be supporting the wood above or below it. The thing is, something in the upper area of the grip needs to provide resistance to the forces that start the patched ball and that push the patched ball down the barrel.
There isn't any "right" or "wrong" way to do this so just add something that will do the supporting.

This will almost make the stand a thing that is only good for one pistol because each new pistol will have a slightly different shaped curvature on the rear of the grip but that's another story**. For now, just add something that can provide the necessary support.

** If you plan on buying some other pistols you might want to make this support block removable so new blocks could be made for new muzzleloading pistols.

~~~ Ah, now I know two members of the "Dirty Dozen." Thanks for your comments.

Because of my level of woodworking skills, I'm not focused on appearance. Going for useful functionality, and making sure the stand simply doesn't fall apart. I appreciate both you and Zonie warning me about the need to protect and support the grip. Would be an unhappy camper if my new pistol "lost its grip."

both for your sharp eye to detail.

Hi wiksmo. I am one of the Dirty Dozen Zonie referred to. It has been years since I owed or shot a TC Patriot pistol. They were historically prone to stocks breaking, depending on how you loaded and abused it. What we used back in the day (pre internet) to avoid breaking stocks were blocks similar to what Zonie suggested. We got close with our primitive carving skills and then used epoxy or fiberglass to get us that perfect fit. Covering it with felt or similar as it sets up if will looked good and fit like a custom glove. And most importantly, supported and protected our stock from breaking.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I was somewhere that offered no internet access or I too would be one of the "other" members who would have mentioned the need for the grip support. Of course this reminds me that I need to make a cushioned support for my loading stand.

 

[8 BORE]

Some of these guys must think your going to seat the ball with a 5 pound sledge hammer. The stand looks fine. I have made several and they are all similar to the one you made.
Lee Marvin as Major Reisman was one of his best roles.

 

[Bad Karma]

Nice job and while I’m not gonna claim membership in the dirty dozen, I have to agree with this sentiment, at least wrt the Patriot pistol. We don’t have a real active MZ community on the Western Slope of the Rockies but over the years I’ve seen a few Patriots with cracked and repaired stocks. Enough that I just don’t use a loading stand at all as I ram the load home. I use it while pouring the charge and or cleaning only.

 

[wiksmo]

That makes #3 of the Dirty Dozen! Got to be an interesting story on how your group decided on that name.

You said you are reminded to make a support for your stand. What kind of pistol do you have? And if you have/use more than one pistol, as Zonie commented, do you have individually-designed stands for different grip designs?

I was somewhere that offered no internet access or I too would be one of the "other" members who would have mentioned the need for the grip support. Of course this reminds me that I need to make a cushioned support for my loading stand.

8 BORE, one elusive part for me is what strength of force would it take to break a wooden grip? Like I earlier said, I think I'm using a light force and my patch and ball are being seated fairly easily. Would be interesting to know. As far as the support, I tend toward "being safe rather than sorry."

Yeah, Lee Marvin was assigned a tough job, but ended up accomplishing it in spite of almost guaranteed failure. Cool WWII movie with that unusual theme.

Some of these guys must think your going to seat the ball with a 5 pound sledge hammer. The stand looks fine. I have made several and they are all similar to the one you made.
Lee Marvin as Major Reisman was one of his best roles.

Woodnbow, glad to read your other option -- after loading the charge, hold the barrel in one hand and use the ramrod in the other. Seems easy enough, and might just try it, too. Thanks!

Nice job and while I’m not gonna claim membership in the dirty dozen, I have to agree with this sentiment, at least wrt the Patriot pistol. We don’t have a real active MZ community on the Western Slope of the Rockies but over the years I’ve seen a few Patriots with cracked and repaired stocks. Enough that I just don’t use a loading stand at all as I ram the load home. I use it while pouring the charge and or cleaning only.

 

[Grenadier1758]

So much depends on the grain orientation through the wrist. Grain that is straight and doesn't follow the curve of the grip will be more prone to failure than a stock with some curve of the grain through the wrist. It also depends on the fit of the ball and patch to the barrel. A tight ball and patch will put more stress on the grip. Loose ball and thick patch will do a lot to prevent the dreaded grip split.

 

[Blogman]

Not to stray from the thread but who and why are the Dirty Dozen?

 

[Grenadier1758]

There is a shadowy group that works to agree on ideas that will chide unsuspecting members of this forum with all sorts of I told you so advice.

Now this group of a "Dirty Dozen" does not exist. Since there is no who and thus there is no why for the existence of any such group. It was a simple catch phrase stating that there are likely several members of this forum that would have provided a similar observation to zonie's reply based on similar experiences during long association with shooting muzzle loaders.

 

[SDSmlf]

Not to stray from the thread but who and why are the Dirty Dozen?

Started with a comment from Zonie -

I know I shouldn't be critical but I also know there's about a dozen other members who are thinking the same thing so I figured I'd beat them to it.

Then I responded with what I assumed would be received as a whimsical answer or comment.

Hi wiksmo. I am one of the Dirty Dozen Zonie referred to.

Nothing more than some sarcasm and similar to the passing gas in the wind. Suggest your best option is to stand by to stand by. Nothing to be seen here. There is no Dirty Dozen.......but if there is, I claim to be member number one.

 

[Blogman]

Hahaha, ok, got it. I guess I got baited, I'll state to be one of there first of the "Doh Dozen!"

 

[rafterob]

Nice looking stand, sounds like you learned it can be a little clumsy loading pistols without a stand. Not so bad if using a patch-ball combo that easily thumb starts.
But Zonie has good advice about adding a second point of support. I have seen stands that have a support behind the hammer which works pretty well for the fully curved "Kentucky" style pistols.

 

[wiksmo]

Appreciate the compliment, rafterob.

Yup, definitely clumsy and awkward wrapped into one during my range visit. Before the RO went and got a loading stand from their storeroom, I was trying to use an old ammo can with towels supporting both sides of the pistol! It was not a pretty sight.

I did take Zonie's advice, along with yours and others. I'm including pics of the "mod" I did to my stand by adding a grip support block. Just finished up today. If I had suspenders on, I'd stretch them just a little bit.

Nice looking stand, sounds like you learned it can be a little clumsy loading pistols without a stand. Not so bad if using a patch-ball combo that easily thumb starts.
But Zonie has good advice about adding a second point of support. I have seen stands that have a support behind the hammer which works pretty well for the fully curved "Kentucky" style pistols.

​

Zonie and all other MLF Folk,

Thanks much for your help in patiently moving me through this DIY loading stand build. My grip support "mod" is in place. Hope the pics show a good ending to this story.
Need to saddle up......I'm ready to get to the range!

wiksmo:

Looks good...

Because your guns grip has a slight bump or "saw handle" shape on the back of the stock grip, it is the area that should be supported.

I know I shouldn't be critical but I also know there's about a dozen other members who are thinking the same thing so I figured I'd beat them to it. :thumbs up: