Va.Manuf.06
58 Cal.
Rifleman1776 said:
Ignore me? :shocked2:Why not, everyone else does.
Yeah, but what do they know? :thumbsup:
Rifleman1776 said:
You are absolutely correct! (Of course, that's just my opinion, but we are right.
)
Burnt flint normal?
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Yeah, but what do they know? :thumbsup:
You are absolutely correct! (Of course, that's just my opinion, but we are right.
)Grandpa Ron
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Wild guess is some of the frizzen, pan, barrel material or other foreign matter was melted onto the edge of the flint.
Never had a flint melt but I have had them dig into the pan or side of the barrel.
All part of what makes Flinters interesting.
Never had a flint melt but I have had them dig into the pan or side of the barrel.
All part of what makes Flinters interesting.
Metal off the frizzen, yes. Very likely.
Robert Hooke studied the sparks created by striking a piece of flint and steel together. He found that the sparks were usually particles of the steel which had become red hot and so melted into globules.
Other sources not likely (read"Neih near impossible"). As I said before, the heat from the black powder reaction is gone too quickly (in a flash!).
Robert Hooke studied the sparks created by striking a piece of flint and steel together. He found that the sparks were usually particles of the steel which had become red hot and so melted into globules.
Other sources not likely (read"Neih near impossible"). As I said before, the heat from the black powder reaction is gone too quickly (in a flash!).
hanshi
Cannon
Metal micro dust does indeed cling to the flint. This is why it's always a good idea to wipe your finger on the flint toward the edge, not toward the cock. This only needs to be done from time to time. As for the smoothing of the corner of the flint, well, it's just sand blasted by the vent hole. BP burn residue makes up about half the powder weight. These particles spewing from the vent hole at very high pressure - higher pressure than from the muzzle since it's concentrated by the tiny hole. It's the same principle that's used to raise the pressure of water to where a very fine stream will cut through wood, metal or just about anything else. Simply knapp it.
Between much rain and normal busy life, I haven't had a chance to experiment yet. But, I did ask the opinion of a friend who is both a flint shooter and welder/machinist. His opinion is a flint heated with an acetlyene torch will (sorta) explode but not melt. He will experiment wearing protective gear.
Rifleman1776 said:
That's been my experience although not with a acetylene torch. My place has a lot of flint rock and every time I build a good size brush pile fire you can hear the rocks ping when they fracture. I've also been hit by flying pieces of flint (hurts like the dickens). Never have I found any melted flint rock after the coals have cooled down.
Alden, I would love to see pics, or videos, of your flint welding process.Alden said:
Hisownself
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I tried heating with an oxy/acetylene torch. At first it flakes like crazy with little chips flying off. But once that settles down, it does indeed melt like glass. However it requires more than a few seconds which is more than it endures during a shot being fired.
Maybe if the right flux was being used the pieces would weld themselves together?
Alden? What are you using for flux with your welded flints?
I know it's probably a trade secret but we won't tell anyone. Honest! :grin: :wink:
Alden? What are you using for flux with your welded flints?
I know it's probably a trade secret but we won't tell anyone. Honest! :grin: :wink:
"To fix, you need to soak in flint solvent and reshape."
My up-til-now top secret work on creating a flint stretcher just might be about to take a quantum leap forward! I'm currently figuring out where to hang my Nobel Prize.
My up-til-now top secret work on creating a flint stretcher just might be about to take a quantum leap forward! I'm currently figuring out where to hang my Nobel Prize.
Oh?Alden said:
And, just how far can you cast them?
:rotf:
I like to do it the traditional way...
It is difficult and expensive to have the modern, man-made, diamond flint molds made to cast flints. And it is not as gratifying as doing it the old fashioned way like the Mountain Men.
The real difficulty today is finding an active volcano, a vain of molten flint, and then the repetition of recreating the one-time-use molds made from yellow ice. If you do it really fast you can just dump a spoonful of flint liquid into the yellow ice mold you prepared in advance. It forms the flint, a little rough (which is why they all look different to this day), quenching the and hardening the flint but also melting the yellow ice into its original, unsanitary, form.
It is difficult and expensive to have the modern, man-made, diamond flint molds made to cast flints. And it is not as gratifying as doing it the old fashioned way like the Mountain Men.
The real difficulty today is finding an active volcano, a vain of molten flint, and then the repetition of recreating the one-time-use molds made from yellow ice. If you do it really fast you can just dump a spoonful of flint liquid into the yellow ice mold you prepared in advance. It forms the flint, a little rough (which is why they all look different to this day), quenching the and hardening the flint but also melting the yellow ice into its original, unsanitary, form.
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That would be especially hard Alden....considering that flint is a sedimentary rock and not a volcanic one.... :slap:
Here I've been using ordinary ice...but you are using urinary ice!
The unique chemical component must be the secret. :wink:
The unique chemical component must be the secret. :wink:
