Buying and building a kit (n00b)

[MrTriple]

I have an opportunity to buy a used, unassembled CVA flintlock pistol kit. Given it's low price I'm tempted to pick it up.

The issue is that I've never owned nor used a muzzleloading pistol before and as the seller also said, I'd be afraid of "blowing my hand off trying to use it".

What should I look for and be concerned about if I bought and built this thing? What risks are there in using a kit-built firearm and how do I mitigate them?

 

[Zonie]

The only risk is if you load the pistol with any kind of smokeless powder.
Smokeless powder that can be found in all cartridges will cause the barrel to explode.

If you are using real black powder and keep the amount you load into the barrel to 1/2 to 1 teaspoon (approx 22-45 grains) your gun should be totally safe.

Your flintlock will work very poorly if you use one of the modern synthetic black powders like Pyrodex or 777. The tendency of these powders to burn slowly rather than flash in the pan will cause ignition problems.
These synthetic black powders also require higher temperatures to cause them to ignite.

Your pistol is made for shooting lead balls that are slightly smaller than the bore size.
If your gun is a .45 it would use a .440 diameter ball. Likewise, if it is a .50 caliber, it would use a .490 diameter ball.

These lead balls are placed in a cotton cloth patch to hold them into the barrel and to engage the rifling grooves. For your pistol I recommend a patch about .010 thick.

For casual plinking or just to try your pistol, a 1" X 1" piece of a old T-shirt would do.
Lubricate the material with a light coating of cooking oil.

 

[mjulihn]

Guess it depends on your workshop and your mechanical/woodworking abilities. Most kits require some fitting -- particularly the wood parts. Most likely the barrel is still "in the white" -- unfinished steel which will rust if not treated with bluing, browning or the like. That said, there is a lot of information available on the Internet for someone with the right tools, patience, and a bit of common sense!

 

[MrTriple]

Understood. From what I gather it may be one of those "beginner" kits where all I really need to do is finish the wood and fit the parts. That leads me to another question: what exactly can I expect in terms of work? I can't find specifics online.

As to the 2nd poster, that's exactly what I read so it's nice to get some additional confirmation :grin:

I'd likely start with some lubed patches, actual black powder, and a powder measure and pan primer. I'm also assuming that the gun includes the recommended loading ranges for the powder so I'll stick to those. And should I get finer powder for the pan or just use the same powder that I'd use for the main charge?

[EDIT] I have access to an old Dremel and a large toolbox of random stuff, so I hope this is enough.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

The most important tool is patience. Never use a power tool.

Go slow, little bits at a time. It is easy to take $200 in parts and make a $40 gun. It is only a bit more difficult to take $200 in parts and make a $300 gun.

See about getting/borrowing Chuck Dixon's Book on building a longrifle. It is done almost in comic book easy form and demonstrates the skills you will need in exceptionally simple terms. It is only about $25 and well worth what you will learn.
(See Dixon's Muzzle loader shop's web site)

 

[rafterob]

For $100-150 it's worthwhile. Lots of sanding, maybe some minor alterations of the inlets and finishing of the barrel. Leave the power tools alone and take your time and you'll end up with a decent shootable pistol.

 

[MrTriple]

Yeah, and I definitely realize that my first pistol kit won't be the greatest thing in the world. My only concerns are finishing the wood to the best level I can achieve as a beginner and ensuring that it shoots.

This, of course, is entirely dependent on if the seller still wants to sell and for a reasonable price :wink:

 

[azmntman]

BUY IT! "Once you go black you never go back" and if you need to (or want to) you can always re-stain darker or lighter. I have done that before, built one and then saw a nicer one so I sanded and re-stained and had the nicer one!

I had a cva flint lock .45 once, was FUN and very reliable. Was 16 and cannot recall where it went. Cannot recall other things. 16 and 17 were much too fun.

 

[MrTriple]

If the barrel needs bluing, how hard is that to do?

The sanding and staining seems fun/easy. The bluing I'm more worried about.

 

[MacRob46]

I would brown the barrel rather than bluing it. Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution, available from Track of the Wolf, works very well and does not require the careful handling some others do. It also degreases the barrel when it is applied but I would do that before I use it, in spite of the advertising. I have used the product a lot. It is important to draw file a smooth surface on the barrel before beginning bluing. Also, humidity helps. If you live in the south west, for example, browning and bluing, absent some humidity, can turn out poorly or take more time than in the humid south. John Bivins had a plan for a sort of "damp box" to be used for barrel finishing which was simply a tight wooden box - with a door of course - with provision to hang a barrel, a large light bulb and a pan of water near it. That created enough humidity for an even finish - browning and bluing are both controlled rusting processes.

One thing to keep in mind when building any pre-inlet kit is that CVA kits and others like them are mass-produced, unlike kits from Jim Chambers. If the worker doing the inletting is off a bit or the router bites too deeply, it is often difficult to correct. I learned that the hard way 42 years ago with a Numrich Arms half-stock rifle kit and I have an unfinished CVA kit which also had those problems - rifle rather than pistol. You have been advised to go slow already and that was very good advice. Also, don't leave a lot of unnecessary wood on the stock but leave enough for strength in the area around the barrel, lock and breech. Leaving too much wood is a common problem with first-time kit builders.

Good luck with your build and post some photos when it is done.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Everybody from suppository gun world immediately want to blue muzzleloader barrels because that it what they know. I would avoid the blue also. If you feel the need to do anything to it. Brown it.

Frankly, my first pistol was a CVA Kentucky flint pistol back about 1971. I had the good fortune that my father had been a high end cabinet maker before he became a game warden and one of his deputies was a known long rifle builder. With the kind guidance of the two of them, it took me months of spare time to complete that pistol. Glassy smooth wood, a dark stain, bright shiny brass and a mirror polish on the barrel made that pistol stand out. To this day, I still think a bright metal (in the white) finish against dark wood is very classy looking. When all the metal parts (except the lock & barrel)were buffed and degreased, we sprayed them with a light coat of polyurethane varnish. The barrel was always polished with flitz when ever anything started to show. I shot that gun for alot of years before the varnish on the brass started to chip and the barrel started to discolor. I swapped that pistol even up for a flint rifle. Wish I had kept it. I recently bought two "bubba done" CVA kentucky pistols (one flint one perc) to rework. The flinter will be redone to a similar finish as my first. I do intend a few custom changes, like a barrel tennon to hold the barrel to the gun instead of the screws in the muzzle cap.

 

[Davemuzz]

I did a pistol build and instead of the blue or the browning, I did a slightly different take and using the browning method, I "blackened" not only the barrel, but the lock and all of the furniture of the pistol. It wasn't difficult to do, and I liked the results. Just tossing that out for you to consider. :stir:

Dave

 

[Tinker2]

Lots of advice here.
Main thing is have fun and enjoy the journey.
If you have doubts ask, go slow and remember most any mistakes can be fixed.




William Alexander