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Can I Build This?

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If you try to built this nothing will turn out "RIGHT". Sorry couldn't resist that pun. Take your time and ask plenty of questions. Post pictures of the progress of your build. The most important bit I can offer you is that when you get tired or flustered at any point. put it down and walk away, don't ask how I cam to learn this little tid bit. Also keep your tools sharp. good luck
 
Ok, I see. They are light. I don't see the GM barrel being offered for this gun, but a Rice barrel is. Kind of pricey. How does it compare to the GM barrel.

- [RICE-50-IH-B] Match Quality Rifle Barrel, .50 caliber, Isaac Haines, 38" swamped, "B" profile, 1-66" twist, 3.7 lb, crowned, flared tang plug, by Rice Barrel Company [$245.00]
 
Worth the money IMO.

Here is a visual of what a "swamped" barrel is.
http://longrifles-pr.com/gmswampedoctbarrels.shtml

Have a Chambers Isaac Haines w/ C weight Rice in 54 on the bench right now... Everything is going pretty smoothly - no real surprises or issues to date. I have had this barrel for a while so I just ordered a stock and hardware. Figured I needed an easy build to occupy me for most of the Winter. I am to the point of cutting dove tails for the underlugs.

If you are not familiar with the process of building a rifle I suggest you purchase a couple of reference books that will explain the process and ins and outs.
 
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That's quite a taper difference. I assume i'll have to inlay it in the stock. Will that be pretty hard?
 
Capper said:
That's quite a taper difference. I assume i'll have to inlay it in the stock. Will that be pretty hard?

I was worried about this also with my TOW kit. I called TOW and they told me that their swamped kits are inletted closer than their strait ones. There was not much wood to remove from my swamped stock...pretty easy.
 
So far so good...have not run into any problems. I had TOW cut the underlugs and sights. I was originally going to do a Chambers kit but they had an 8-12 week wait on the one I wanted. But I'm very satisfied with the TOW kit. Good luck on whatever you decide! :thumbsup:
 
The barrel generally will be a very tight fit into the shaped barrel channel when you get it. You will take a few hours and using inletting black, lipstick or soot, bed the barrel to a much more uniform fit. 99% of the fitting will occur at the breech and the bottom and bottom oblique flats. I'll then get the lock plate and bolster sunk to depth (bolster against barrel) to see if the barrel is deep enough as well as far enough back.

BTW, the visual link I provided earlier is WAY more dramatic than what the barrel actually looks like. Take a look at the dimensions for each "weight".
 
If you can swing the $$, defenatly go for the swamped barrel!!!

I can't think of words too express more than,,

GO FOR THE SWAMPED BARREL!
:thumbsup:
 
With the coming of the industrial age died the common use of swamped barrels, or so I've read and been told by historians.
 
The swamped barrels always cost more and getting the barrel channel cut by the stock suppliers costs more too but if you choose to use a swamped barrel you definitely want the supplier to cut the channel for you.

Rice barrels are among the very best barrels available.

While you looking do not overlook Pecatonica Rivers gun kits.
They usually cost a bit less and the wood is always better than the "grade" would indicate.
Dick Greensides, the owner knows his guns and is always willing to do anything you ask of him.
Pecatonica River makes their own stocks and are the supplier for other places that re-sell his stocks to you.

I have bought stocks from other makers and I rate Pecatonica River as among the very best. http://www.longrifles-pr.com/

Rather than buying from PR online, be sure to call Dick and tell him what your plans are.
He will be able to give you helpful ideas and more importantly, he will be able to tell you if he has your barrel in stock.
His phone number is 815-968-1995
 
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Thank you. I'll be sure to look into it.

Nothing is set in stone for me at this point. I'll do my research before buying anything.
 
If you go with a Rice swamped barrel (and I would highly recommend it), you can order directly from LC Rice (just Google Rice Barrel Company) and order the model of barrel you want in their Gunmaker's Special. You will have to draw file the barrel (which you will have to do anyway), but it will save you about $50 over TOW's price. Order early though as they don't always have a lot in stock. I think Rice barrels are more than worth the money.
 
Pecatonica River can also supply Rice barrels but if you think you want to spend the extra money for a swamped barrel, read the information Dick wrote about each of his stock styles.
They only offer the swamped barrels on a limited number of styles. I'm also not sure how many left handed guns they offer so be sure to ask Dick when you talk to him.
 
Off the top of my head he has about 5-6 LH model.

I don't want to ask him a bunch of useless questions. So, i'm making sure what I want, and then i'll call him and work out the details.
 
If you decide on a style that will use a straight or swamped barrel.
The swamped is a better choice. Much lighter, also adds that nice "flare" at the breach.
Having build and shot both, the swamped is the only way to go IMHO :v
More expensive. But don't try to save money on the Lock or Barrel.. Go with the best you can afford and then some.
If money is tight, then go with a less expensive piece of wood.
If you make mistakes,, which is a part of the learning curve. Hacking up a $100 piece of wood vrs a $200 piece of wood.Is easier to take :surrender: Plus straight grain wood is stronger, easier to work and carve.
Good luck, let us know what you decide.
 
Well thanks to you, Capper, I have pretty much decided to scrap my plans to assemble a Lyman GPR kit and will build a Verner rifle with swamped 38" barrel from Pecatonia River instead (after selling a high-end air rifle to fund the endeavor).

I spoke with Dick at PR just this morning - nice guy. When I told him I was new to rifle building he mentioned that for a total of $85 they will put together the breech (or whatever the term is), install the underlugs, cut the buttplate, and cut the sight dovetails.

I don't know if I want them to do all of this work - it will be my first rifle build, but I may want to do the buttplate cut and the underlugs myself. Depends on how courageous I feel..

Anyway, thanks for pioneering the path for me towards a first gun build.
 
As I've mentioned, it is a good idea for a first time builder to have the sight dovetails machined by the supplier because they are right out there for everyone to see. A screw up on one of them will be very obvious.

The underlug dovetails, being hidden can be cut by the novice.

If a person wants Dick to cut the sight dovetails they should also agree to let him install the breech plug.
Only when the breech plug is installed will he know which of the 8 flats is the top flat.

If you ask him to breech the barrel and to cut the sight dovetails you can also tell him you don't want the underlugs installed or the butt cut for the butt plate.
Doing this will cost you $36.00 for the machine work. See the attached link for his prices
http://www.longrifles-pr.com/services.shtml

If you have the sights installed and don't ask him for a special location he will install them in the location where most longrifles have them.

If, due to poor eyesight you want the rear sight to be further down the barrel get a good idea of where you want it and then tell him the dimension from the breech where you want it to be.
Because these guns are custom, you can have the sights located any place you want them.
 
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