Can't get very back of the barrel clean. Is it a big deal?

[Mad L]

Forgot the link, if you dont know what a Tow Worm is (or a good screw shaped patch puller will do):

https://smilingfoxforge.com/index.php?id_product=390&rewrite=hand-turned-tow-worm&controller=product

 

[SomeDude]

Forgot the link, if you dont know what a Tow Worm is (or a good screw shaped patch puller will do):

https://smilingfoxforge.com/index.php?id_product=390&rewrite=hand-turned-tow-worm&controller=product

Unfortunately my range rod has 10-32 threads.

 

[pmccoywss]

If you can remove the barrel from the stock, do so. Then get a small bucket, put some hot water and cut a few small slices of bar soap into the water. Place the breech in the bucket and put a patch on your jag. Run the patch in and out several times, until the barrel gets hot..

If you can't get the barrel out, get a piece of clear plastic tubing that just fits over the nipple and drop it in some water while you pump the wet patch in the barrel. I've also used a piece of tubing sealed at one end (melted) to do the same thing while at the range and before getting ome for complete cleaning.

 

[tenngun]

Unfortunately my range rod has 10-32 threads.

Calahan’s bag molds makes historic styled in any screw configeration

 

[BadDaditood]

Unfortunately my range rod has 10-32 threads.

I changed All my BP jags, worms, brushes and breech scrapers to 10/32
Steel male threads too, had cheap brass threads break off... ONCE

 

[Mad L]

Unfortunately my range rod has 10-32 threads.

My rods are 10-32 too. I found one...somewhere, there are several out there who make them.
Also you can use a regular Patch Worm (one that looks like a spring instead of a screw)
Gotta look around, they are out there.
It's all part of owning a Muzzleloader:

https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/muzzle-loaders-patch-puller-32-cal-mz1322.html

 

[Stony Broke]

I've found it's pretty simple to clean out that area...using a simple rod tip like you would use to hold a patch for a modern firearm. I put a patch through the opening in the tip and then pull the patch over the top of the tip. I soak the patch in solvent and the patch will conform to the shape of the chamber in the barrel. After it's clean, I put another patch in the same place and lube the chamber.

 

[Snydly]

Fouling scraper for your specific caliber

 

[Mad L]

I've found it's pretty simple to clean out that area...using a simple rod tip like you would use to hold a patch for a modern firearm. I put a patch through the opening in the tip and then pull the patch over the top of the tip. I soak the patch in solvent and the patch will conform to the shape of the chamber in the barrel. After it's clean, I put another patch in the same place and lube the chamber.

Yes, I did that for a long time too. I found cutting a long strip of course material (linen or hemp canvas) was best for stubborn fouling. The long strip aloud me to do same as the Tow by 'feeding' a sizable amount down ahead of the jag, then ram it down to confirm to the breach bottom.

Once I got me a Tow Worm and tow, I find it works much better. And the tow can be cleaned and reused over and over....just like the good old days.
I read somewhere that said they would wash the wad of tow when done then stick it "under their hat until dried" - not sure if it's true or not, but sounds 'cool'.

 

[Mad L]

Fouling scraper for your specific caliber

Fouling scrapers are nice, but dont really get the corner edges...myself, I always worry about causing excessive wear and scratching....tow (or a strip of canvas cloth) will get into ALL nooks and crannies and polish it up good.

 

[Alan O]

here's a post from a 2010 thread that looks informative

 

[Reno]

Good responses. Yes it’s a very big deal. If you don’t get it completely clean it will rust and degrade faster than you think.
ivstarted out years ago by using the hottest water I could get without boiling it on a stove. A good squirt of dish soap Then starting with a wet very tight patch place tgevbrer h in the bucket of soapy water. StArt pushing and pulling the tight patch in and out of the barrel. You will notice and feel the water being sucked into the barrel through the breech. Then it being pushed out. The water in the bucket will turn black. Aftee a several stokes that go all the way to the tip of the barrel you switch to a rinse. This is just plain very hot water. Change your patches. Once again several strokes. You can change the rinse again if you want.
Then I always lightly oiled the barrel.
Then in a couple days run a clean patch it two in and out and check to see what the patches look like.
Oh by the way. I forgot. Do the bucket if soapy water outside. It produces some of the best sulfur odor you will smell. Some folks might not want that in the house and you risk being gearing a few choice words
This method while old works well

you can also use modern cleaning washes. But I will say. In my opinion nothing works like a bucket of soapy water

 

[OhioHawkeye]

This is probably a dumb question, but is it a big deal if I can't get the very back/bottom of the barrel clean? If I look in there under a strong light, there's a dark ring around the breech port where my cleaning jag and patches nor my brush seem to be able to contact.

No such ting as a dumb question.
Yes, it can be an issue with accuracy consistency as well as longevity of the barrel since it is a place that can rust very quickly.

Use your cleaning patches, tow on a good worm,, etc.
At home, (remember, we don't shoot nearly as often as market hunters etc. did way back when) use some modern tools.
Use a breech scraper rod end to the caliber of your gun. Smaller is OK, but the right size is better. Since many guns have a curved breech and not flat, also use a breech brush.

A breech scraper is a rod end that makes the rod look like a big screwdriver. It is a piece of brass with a horizontal blade on it to literally scrape the breech clean. Use after ballistol/water soak. swab, then let soak with fresh solution. I use round toothpicks to plug the touch hole. If you don't have ballistol, Murphy's Oil soap and water will work. Doesn't matter what temperature of water.

A bore brush is also a rod end adapter. It is a brass bristle brush that makes the rod look like a very long stiff paintbrush. the brush will get to the bottom of the mater.. Literally. where just a bore brush wont. Bore brushes don't have the brush pointing straight out at the tip to actually touch the bore they just clean the lands and grooves.

I know many vendors sell the breech tools. Mike Eder of Flintlocks Inc. makes most of what he sells and are the ones I get.
Edit 11:50AM 5/26/21 to include photo of breech brush. Sorry, I'm not at my house so don't have a Breech scraper. Here is a photo of one I found online.

 

[M. De Land]

This is probably a dumb question, but is it a big deal if I can't get the very back/bottom of the barrel clean? If I look in there under a strong light, there's a dark ring around the breech port where my cleaning jag and patches nor my brush seem to be able to contact.

I make a brass scraper of bore (land) diameter shaped much like a hollow ground screw driver bit. Put this on the cleaning rod and turn it in the bottom. The corners will get the crud ring out to the land diameter. The end of the scraper needs to be shaped the same as your breech plug face to clean down to metal. Oh, I see the previous poster shows a picture of what I'm talking about.

 

[Columbus]

I used to use a .22 cal bore mop soaked with whatever cleaner I was using that day - worked well.

 

[Okie Hog]

Never bothered cleaning the patent breech. i simply remove the nipple and run a bristled pipe cleaner through the flame channel.