Cap Jam Fix On Colt Pocket Models

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Thanks, Bad Karma. It seems that data should be available somewhere. Or, it might be a good project experimenting how small before unreliable ignition. Since it's not a convoluted ignition path like most rifles, perhaps even smaller than .024" would work. Perhaps try .020"?
 
Been shooting Colts since the 1980's and the only thing that stopped Cap Jams all together was installing the cap rake. I also put in SlixShot nipples so all of my Colts use #11 caps so I don't have to deal with 10's.
 
I think I measured the SlixShots and they were also quite large. I've got the idea the current specs were derived from originals which were, most likely, worn out. Measuring originals, unless new and unfired, probably wouldn't be very helpful.

I'm currently reading "Colts Revolver" and it's got patent drawings. One of them shows the arbor solidly contacting the well. Perhaps there's one on the nipples. I'll have to search.
 
Here's a past thread on this topic: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/percussion-nipple-hole-size.9168/

In that thread it's said that .030" was found to be a good size, however Idaho Lewis stated .024" was ideal. This was for rifles. As I recall, Sam Colt had something to do with creating a funnel shape in the flash channel rather than a straight-through hole. Percussion technology was pretty new when he created the revolver and he was quite the inventor. Cap strength (strong charge) and flash hole diameter appear to go hand in hand.
 
Here's a past thread on this topic: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/percussion-nipple-hole-size.9168/

In that thread it's said that .030" was found to be a good size, however Idaho Lewis stated .024" was ideal. This was for rifles. As I recall, Sam Colt had something to do with creating a funnel shape in the flash channel rather than a straight-through hole. Percussion technology was pretty new when he created the revolver and he was quite the inventor. Cap strength (strong charge) and flash hole diameter appear to go hand in hand.
Giovanni Venturi (Italian physicist) discovered the Venturi effect and Colt probably used it in his nipples ,
Checking an original will still give a pretty good idea as the orifice erodes oblong but can still give a pretty good idea when checked with a numbered drill base.
The drill base needs to be mic'ed for an accurate read.
 
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I checked my original 1849 Colt Pocket, but it's probably useless info as things are pretty worn. The smallest flash hole diameter was .042, and the largest .055.

I've got an original Remington New Model Army cylinder sitting in a hot ATF/Acetone bath so that I can remove the nipples. I plan to pull it out on Sunday, and can measure the size then. They are quite a bit smaller looking than the Colt Pocket.
 
I checked my original 1849 Colt Pocket, but it's probably useless info as things are pretty worn. The smallest flash hole diameter was .042, and the largest .055.

I've got an original Remington New Model Army cylinder sitting in a hot ATF/Acetone bath so that I can remove the nipples. I plan to pull it out on Sunday, and can measure the size then. They are quite a bit smaller looking than the Colt Pocket.
You won't need to remove the nipples to measure the orifice diameter with a numbered drill bit .
 
For those of you who may interested on fit of caps. About halfway down the nipple .174 diameter gives a good firm fit on CCI caps. .166 is a bit too loose. Never measured the opening so can't help there.
 
I’ve checked mine Mike. I replaced them years ago but kept them. They are eroded out of round and vary from .32” to .37” using pin gauges. One of my cousins had this gun for a couple of years and I believe he was using old caps with corrosive priming mixture, it wasn’t cleaned properly either.
 
I’ve checked mine Mike. I replaced them years ago but kept them. They are eroded out of round and vary from .32” to .37” using pin gauges. One of my cousins had this gun for a couple of years and I believe he was using old caps with corrosive priming mixture, it wasn’t cleaned properly either.
Thanks for checking so I'm guessing probably pretty close to the .032 diameter. Originals would have been made of case hardened mild steel and I would guess pretty susceptible to erosion until the advent of alloying with chrome and through hardening .
Wonder how tight their tolerance requirements were ?
Every thing was hand mated /fitted then which makes for smooth functioning guns but not much tolerance uniformity.
In those days all fire arms were soft fitted with hand tools, case hardened and then final hard fitted with stones and sand paper to account for case hardening distortion.
I've done a fair amount of charcoal case hardening/coloring and every thing moves "wharps" to one degree or another even when mechanically jigged to keep straight. This occurs in the quench tank.
I'll get out in the shop tomorrow and check some nipple orifice diameters and post them.
My third daughter and her husband are coming down from Fairbanks and is dropping off some .308 hulls for me to re-load for her again.
She really likes that little Rem bolt gun I made for her a couple years back. She got a bull moose last year with it and brought me some stakes ! Attah Girl , keep up the good work ! 😄
 
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For those of you who may interested on fit of caps. About halfway down the nipple .174 diameter gives a good firm fit on CCI caps. .166 is a bit too loose. Never measured the opening so can't help there.
I bought some nipples from TOTW that were for #11 caps and they were to small, I was using them on a percussion shotgun and brushing by them or turning the gun upside down and they would fall right off. (Yeah....., I know all about squeezing nipples, try doing it in freezing temperatures with gloves on).
I have ground them down a little and they fit better now but I lost about six of them when they fell off in the ground cover/snow.
New ones coming from another source just to see.
 
Thanks for checking so I'm guessing probably pretty close to the .032 diameter. Originals would have been made of case hardened mild steel and I would guess pretty susceptible to erosion until the advent of alloying with chrome and through hardening .
Wonder how tight their tolerance requirements were ?
Every thing was hand mated /fitted then which makes for smooth functioning guns but not much tolerance uniformity.
In those days all fire arms were soft fitted with hand tools, case hardened and then final hard fitted with stones and sand paper to account for case hardening distortion.
I've done a fair amount of charcoal case hardening/coloring and every thing moves "wharps" to one degree or another even when mechanically jigged to keep straight. This occurs in the quench tank.
I'll get out in the shop tomorrow and check some nipple orifice diameters and post them.
My third daughter and her husband are coming down from Fairbanks and is dropping off some .308 hulls for me to re-load for her again.
She really likes that little Rem bolt gun I made for her a couple years back. She got a bull moose last year with it and brought me some stakes ! Attah Girl , keep up the good work ! 😄
Hah! Thanks for understanding what I meant and not what I typed… of course these were eroded to the current dimension of .032”+ I’m guessing they started life at .028 or less. The chambers suffered some pitting as well. Didn’t happen while my grandfather owned it and it darned sure didn’t happen during my stewardship.
 
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