Caps vs. flintlock for hunting?

[graybeard]

Pine trees pulled the "drop a lump of snow on the lock" on me several times last winter. The first time I carefully cleaned off all the snow and replaced the prime. About the fourth time I just blew the snow off. She still fired fine. I've only been shooting the flinter seriously for a little over a year but I'm finding more and more they aren't as tempermental or subject to moisture as most hunters think. I had more trouble with repeated shots on a damp day than I've ever had in the woods in the snow. I found after a few shots I had to wipe the pan one day when the humidity was high. graybeard :imo:

 

[jmckenney]

My method of protecting the priming powder from getting wet while hunting is to take a strip of patching material, coat both sides with a heavy/thick grease applying a thin film, crisco works well. Open the frizzen and lay this over the primed pan then close the pan leaving a tail of material about 6" long away from the lock plate. When I'm ready to shoot just grab the extended tail and pull it out.You don't want the material laying between the frizzen and pan to extend very much if at all between the frizzen and barrel. If you leave a tail or too much material over the barrel it will drag too much when or will not budge you pull it out.
I've used this method while hunting in snow, rain, sleet and high humidity without fail the priming stays dry and the gun goes boom every time. Sharp flint, 4F graphite coated powder and clear vent. You can also put some thick grease over and around a percussion cap to prevent moisture from getting to the fulminate after capping the firearm.

 

[Bearbait2]

Mr. 54Hawkens,
Interesting idea. A water tite gasket as it were. Will have to give it a try. Thank you.
Best Wishes

 

[Stumpkiller]

My method of protecting the priming powder from getting wet while hunting is to take a strip of patching material, coat both sides with a heavy/thick grease applying a thin film, crisco works well. Open the frizzen and lay this over the primed pan then close the pan leaving a tail of material about 6" long away from the lock plate. When I'm ready to shoot just grab the extended tail and pull it out.You don't want the material laying between the frizzen and pan to extend very much if at all between the frizzen and barrel. If you leave a tail or too much material over the barrel it will drag too much when or will not budge you pull it out.
I've used this method while hunting in snow, rain, sleet and high humidity without fail the priming stays dry and the gun goes boom every time. Sharp flint, 4F graphite coated powder and clear vent. You can also put some thick grease over and around a percussion cap to prevent moisture from getting to the fulminate after capping the firearm.

:what: How do you keep the priming from soaking up the Crisco and being ruined or sticking to it and being pulled away with the material?

I do everything I can to keep any oil or lube out of the pan at all times. I wax the top of the frizzen over the pan so it sheds water and use a cows knee to cover the whole works.

 

[jmckenney]

How do you keep the priming from soaking up the Crisco and being ruined or sticking to it and being pulled away with the material?

Notice I said thin film of crisco, not gobs of it, I'm talking crisco grease not oil. don't use petroleum based grease, only animal (lard) or vegetable. If you put a small amount on the material and work it in, you will have a water proofing seal. Secondly, if it's raining it's cool and if it's snowing it's definitely cold and the grease won't run, nor be absorbed by the priming powder. It doesn't matter if a small amount of priming adheres to the material,there should still be enough in the pan to initiate ignition of the main charge.
Don't quote me because I don't know the melting point of crisco grease but I'm sure it's over 100*F and if it's that hot nobody should be hunting as the game will spoil before it can be cared for properly.
Do some testing on your own to see what works best for you, this just happens to have worked for me in Louisiana, Montana and N. Quebec on numerous occasions.
Secondary use for the greased patching material is you have it immediately available for reloading without fumbling and having to search thru the possibles bag or pockets while excited.

 

[LRB]

54hawkins, where did you find graphite coated 4f ?

 

[Stumpkiller]

You probably already have some.

That's the kind that ends in "g" in the granulations. I.e. FFg, FFFFg. My question is where you find Goex that is uncoated? That's probably a better priming choice.

 

[LRB]

It is my understanding that Goex FFFFg is not coated. All other granulations are. That is why many use FFFg as a hunting prime.

 

[jmckenney]

Stump Killer and Wick, I knew that black powder-all of it was coated with graphite but couldn't remember where I had read it years ago so I contacted GOEX directly and got this reply:

From: John McKenney [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 9:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Question on black powder mfg
Sir,
Yes it is but not so much to prevent clumping. The coating does resist moisture and also adds to the

 

[roundball]

It is my understanding that Goex FFFFg is not coated. All other granulations are. That is why many use FFFg as a hunting prime.

My understanding as well...it sure attracts moisture...(but I still use it for prime, and just refresh often when I'm hunting)

 

[LRB]

Yeah, I still use it too. Tried the 3f, just could not convince myself that it was just as fast. Acually, by tests, it isn't, but your not supposed to be able to tell when shooting, but I would swear that I could.