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Carbelas Hawkins

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Rick Presley

40 Cal.
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Last week I drop in at a local gun shop and on the Rack there was a Carbela's Hawkin. Brand new withstarted kit. for a $150. I had been looking at the Carbelas site knew that this was a $300 rifle The store clerk said that a fellow came after buying it over in Kansas City Carbela got it home and after reading the info that it was too much of a job so he sold it to the gun shop. I have on lay-way right now going to pick it up this afternoon. Oh yes it is in the box.
 
A $300.00 rifle for $150.00...
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It's a shame you couldn't find one for half price too...
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I'll need the location of that gun shop and a picture of you...
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Just joking, great find...
 
quote:Originally posted by Rick Presley:
The Gun dealer is Pates Gun shop Ogden KS. I am easy to get alone with have a great day I was just teasing a bit, I don't want your gun...

Looks like it was a fun time at the High Plains Rendezvous for all to be had...

Has your daughter done any muzzleloader shooting yet?

I wish mine would show an interest...

My teenage girls only like boys, go figure...
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So, about your kit, are you going to blue or brown the barrel and hardware?

I always liked the brown look on muzzleloaders...
 
Yes she has she has been shooting for three years she uses a CVA Youth Hunter plus she has a Tradition 50 trapper pistol plus her own hawk,knfe for thorwing. She took 2 place at the First Rich ballou youth shoot her in kansas for her age group. At rendevous she likes to do more hawk and knife events.
I knew you where joking.Talk later
 
Several years ago I bought a Cabelas Hawken(assembled, no kit) for 200$. I see them in the catalog now for closer to three. I figure in a few more years they will be around 400$. I would rather have a B&W catalog with decent prices than a big fancy full color catalog with prices that go up 50 bucks every issue.

Anyway, I love shooting my Hawken, it is very accurate. I use 40 grains of 3f and it does just fine.

When I first got it some goofball at work asked me if it was an " Inline Hawken"!!!!!
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I got it today it is a bute. Tomorrow I will go out to lake Tuttle and zero it in. Compared to the CVA hawkins it is lot more heavier. All take care I m going to try to find a musket nipple for it I like musket caps better than 11 nipples.
 
Musket Nipple won't work,tried it..The hammer has way too much overbite. I'll send ya a 6mm x .75 musket nipp fer free if you wanna try it.(pm addy)
Once you find out,just pass it on.
Just a tip,the nickle plated 1/48 twist on them Cabelas Hawkins like a tight/dry patched rb or a really dry lubed blunt short conical for best performance. Every gun is differnt,but you can expect 4" groups off bench with the factory open sights @ 100 once ya find the load,
p.s. don't waste yer money on plastic bullets,,it wasn't made for it. You can believe me or spend your money tryin,,it's up to you.
 
Thanks for the info. I shoot nothing but patch and ball. I shoot if compition with blackpowder club and rendevous. But I am willing to try the musket nipple.
 
k,then pm,,if yer 'noid" then forget it.sorry,beenthere done that,offer stands.
I dont mix words,,,
 
noldguy I seen your post on the nipple for the Cabelas Hawkins seems they are both made by lyman from what I read.
Do you have any info for thr correct standard nipple for this gun ,seems the lyman is has the same problem has way too much overbite?
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The Carbela Hawkins I just got is made by Investarm s.p.a. Fabbrica D'Armi of Italy It is a Italian Hawkins.
 
noldguy WHICH NIPPLE DO YOU USE?
I ORDERED A KNIGHT RED HOT ,FITS THE THREADS BUT THE TAPER IS TO LONG,SEEM THE SHORTER THE NIPPLE SHAFT THE BETTER THE HAMMER SITS OVER THE NIPPLE
 
theres a thing in the lock called a tumbler, it connects the hammer to the lock parts. The tumbler is the piece that goes thru the "lock plate" and connects to the hammer allowing the "hammer" to strike the "nipple" given the proper drive by the "lock spring" and apex of curvrature. If your 2nd hand gun don't hit the nip proper,best bet is the lock is shot. no nipps nor caps will fix a worn tumbler -rr- plate.
It's simple as that.
 
If the nipple is too long, you can shorten it by filing the top down.
WARNING: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES.

Before doing this there are couple things to keep in mind is most nipples, going from the top down have a large internal diameter which necks down to a small diameter. You don't want to remove all of this large internal diameter area and you defenitly don't want to remove any of the small diameter.
Check the installed nipple/hammer fit. If you remove too much material, the hammer may bottom out on the drum/bolster which means you need a new nipple.

As you remove material from the top of the nipple you are increasing the outside diameter of it because of the outside taper it has. If you remove enough face material so that the cap cannot be installed then get out your electric drill and a fine toothed file.


Chuck the nipple body (not the threads) in the drill so that the nipple end is sticking out. Have someone start the drill (slowly if it is a variable speed drill) and turn the file so its flat is at the same angle the nipple cone has and carefully file the outside diameter down.
Stop often and check the fit of the cap. If the cap is tight and won't come off of the nipple that's not real bad BUT when you pry it off of the nipple be prepared to have it detonate. (another reason to wear safety glasses).

Happy Shootin to you


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