Carrying patch grease.

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Scout1

32 Cal.
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Got another thread for you gentlemen. When loading and shooting out of the pouch how do you carry your patch grease, (such as TOTW Mink Oil),in hot weather? I just got a can in and put a small amount in a small plastic container with a screw on lid. Only thing is I forsee that stuff seeping everywhere. Any other idea's?

Jim
 
I pre-lube all my patches and carry them in a tin. Easier, faster and far less messy...
 
Understood, but I prefer to cut off at the muzzle too carrying precut patches.

Jim
 
For about 5 years I've been using one of the historically correct new all-pastic Copenhagen cans. Never so much as a seep from the seal to at least 80 degrees. And that's HOT here! :grin:
 
I grease up long patching strips, roll 'em up, and put 'em in period correct (1970s-'80s) plastic film cans which I've saved up from years ago.
 
AZ summer temps aren't conducive to wandering about with grease, tallow, or mink oil for patch use. I've got some urine specimin jars, that are leakproof to carry, but messy for using the soft/liquified patch lube. I've used a tallow + beeswax mix for decades, but started using "dry" patches of similar fashion to what Dutch Schoulz describes. I mix 5 parts denatured alcohol with 1 part castor oil and treat the patches. When the DA evaporates, it leaves a fine film of castor oil absorbed throughout the patch material & won't dry out, stink, or degrade. It also keeps the bore cleaner than using any of that 'greasy kid stuff'.
 
I also carry grease in a small round mint tin....liquids can be carried in a small 1 once flip top bottle...

Spit deserves mention again.... :thumbsup:
 
Period correct tin oilers would work. I have a slim one. Pull out the little stick and it has a good amount on there. Doesn't leak so far as long as I have the cork in tightly. Some beeswax on the cork helps with that
 
AZBPburner
Bravo,
You have figured out how to alter the amount of lubricaps. I used water and Ballistol (or water soluble oil).
I had long thought of using alcohol instead of water but wasn't certain of the effect of alcohol on the lubricant.

Your method would dry faster than mine but is essentially the same method.
The point of both methods is to lubricate every inch of your patching strip exactly the same from one end to the other.

Dutch
 
Scout1 said:
Understood, but I prefer to cut off at the muzzle too carrying precut patches.

Jim

So just prelube your strip and roll it up and put it into a tin. If it melts that badly to seep out, its had to much lube applied.
 
Actually, you don't need to carry patch lube in your bag. The best way to do it is to first lay out some of your patch material and spread some of your favorite patch lube on it. Not too heavy. Then use your fingers to rub it into the patch material well. Next take some news paper and put your patch material in several folds of news paper. Run an iron over the news paper to melt the lube into the patch material and evenly distribute it. Cut or tear it into strips and roll the strips and put them into an empty drugstore pill bottle. That way, your patches are correctly lubed and ready for service. Just cut at the muzzle when you load. No messy lube to seep out into your bag. When I am doing a woods walk, I like to drape a strip of lubed patching material over my ramrod in between it and the end of the barrel. It is very handy there.

I also carry some pre-moistened (with windshield washer fluid) wiping patches in a drugstore pill bottle so I can wipe my bore every few shots. Those ubiquitous drug store pill bottles are very handy. The important thing with the pre-moistened wiping patches is that they be just moist not dripping wet.

Probably more than you wanted to know but there it is for better or for worse.
 
Copenhagen works best in Thompson Center (most models). Grizzly long cut DARK wintergreen will give the best results on Traditions (all but KY rifle which like Grizzly Wintergreen "regular", or mint. For the best results on CVA tests have shown Skoal Xtra peach will group better than most. For the smoothys a great BIG wad of redman gold will seal better than the canned stuff. :slap:
 
I precut my patches to octagon shape, and dip them with tweezers in a melted combination of beeswax and cooking oil.
In hotter weather I use a little more beeswax. In colder weather, a little more oil.
After squeezing out the excess lube, I make a short stack about 1/2" or more tall and put it in one end of an Altoids tin or similar container.
I also drop in however many balls will fit in the remaining space in the other end of the tin box.
All my shooting pouches have a pocket inside that the Altoids boxes will fit in.
Since I usually load from a block, I use the contents of the box to refill the block as needed. Some days I just load from the tin.
Been using this system with the metal tins with hinged lids for at least 35 years, and have seen no reason to change.
 
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