Casting .530 Round Ball

[laney1566]

Howdy folks.
I was casting round ball this weekend and began noticing that after a while, my balls were showing a very pronounced center mold line. I stopped and lubed the mold (Lee)with WD 40 while still hot. I concentrated on pivot points and pins. The next day all seemed well again. Does this happen after long casting sessions? Some even looked as if the ball had slid from center point creating a very out of round ball. This was after about 150 balls. This is a double mold.

 

[Little Wattsy]

Im new-ish to pouring my own too BUT I get the impression that after a time the mould gets "hotter", prehaps too hot? I turned the lead down and problem dissipated....Just a thought.

 

[necchi]

I'm kinda new at casting too, and had that trouble.
2 things,
I had to slow down abit to let the lead cool before cutting and dropping, watch the puddle at the sprue to turn hard before cutting.It's about finding a rythme.
The WD is lousy mold lube..can't take the heat. I found plain old Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant from the auto/hardware store works great, it can handle 1200 degrees. Best part was I already had some, I use it on nipple threads and clean-out screws if the gun has one. Carefull, just a touch is all that's needed. I put some on a pipe cleaner then put it where I need it as just a light coat.
On those Lee molds, ya gotta get some lube on those oblong guide pins on the face of the blocks, if they get dry they won't slide into the slot made for them on the opposite face and the blocks won't close, then a little speck of lead gets on the face and it get's worse.
Once the blocks are cool you can clean the face easy enough, the lead will come off with a tooth brush,,de-grease'm with alchohol or break cleaner, lube them pins, and a touch near the pivot of the sprue cutter plate,,find the rythme,,and you'll soon be happy castin yer own,
good luck :thumbsup:
The aluminum blocks are a good starter, cast good and can last a long time if cared for, but the steel blocks are easier to use, they hold the temp better and can be a bit more forgiving if your timing get's off a little. I'm no hero, takes me a couple hours or better to cast 100 keeper ball, from light'n the fire to packing up.

 

[buttonbuck]

pardon my ignorance Permatex is that gray metallic colored anti-cease paste we use on spark plugs and Brake Pad Guide pins right??? I used some Jug a lube graphite it was ok but kind of sucked on the mould blocks it got into the cavity and I had to start over so next session I will smoke em with a pile of old wood matches in a smudge pot. and maybe try the anti cease stuff if you reccomend it it seems plausable

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you have a candle, just light it and use it to smoke the molds. There is enough soot and oil coming off the candle to do a fine job very quickly. I have been using a candle for this purpose for more than 50 years.

Just be sure to clean the mold blocks of oils, and grease using alcohol, before smoking them.

 

[redwing]

The little Lee moulds are OK molds. They need a little more time between pours. They also need a very firm grip on the handles to press and hold the blocks closed. Smok'em with a candle. :thumbsup:

 

[Cutfingers]

I have several Lee molds and find the trick is simply keeping a tight grip on the handles. They do have a tendency to leave a gap if not tightly closed.

 

[grizzy adams]

what I do is use candle smoke for lube , when pouring keep the handles tight , I'll make 10 round balls then let the mold cool down and start up again ( this keeps the mold from getting over hot )

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Follow the instructions about lubing the mold blocks. Another key to keeping Lee molds in good condition is in the way you close the blocks. Set the mold on a flat surface so both blocks are resting. Then close them. This keeps the blocks from hitting together while mis-matched. GW

 

[laney1566]

thanks guys....Will keep you posted....I have no temp control. I have one of those electric hand held pots. Will try slowing down after the mold gets to temp.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I soot my molds with a candle and lube the pivot with beeswax. Works great as a flux, too. At high temps it is a very penetrating lube - a tiny bit goes a long way.

I get a rhythm going and can cast a ball every 25 to 30 seconds or so almost indefinately. I wait an extra bit for the sprue & ball to harden before knocking off the sprue with a section of pick-handle. I drop the balls onto two mouse pads (Neoprene) sitting in a Frisbee. If you go too fast you get frosting and other problems and too slow will cause voids, wrinkles and other oddities. Keeping the mold faces clean is important. Any crud and they won't fully close . . . causing seams, out-of-round and badly-aligned balls.

 

[Deadeye]

I started casting during WW2 (only way to get a bullet in those days)and still cast for just about every caliber. Not all molds need smoke (Lee's usually do) but if they do i find a propane cigarette lighter works well. Keep all oil, grease, wax away from your mold, even the fumes of hot oil can get into and contaminate your mold and cause wrinkles. I always cast with 2 molds, allowing one to cool while filling the other. With two 2 cav. RB molds about 400 per hr. is an average. I very seldom have to throw any back.
I use bottom pour pots and have the lead cast into 1 lb. ingots, drop one in about every 30 casts with the .530 molds to keep the pot filled.
Deadeye

 

[laney1566]

I need a better pot. A bottom pour sounds perfect to me. I never considered pouring into only 1 hole at a time to allow time for cooling. I will try that. Thanks

 

[necchi]

Permatex is that gray metallic colored anti-cease paste we use on spark plugs and Brake Pad Guide pins right???

yup, works for me,,I am very carefull to not use too much,,but lot's of fellers, even Lee say's use smoke,,went too Lyman blocks though,,I keep the Lee as back-up and only use the permatex on the sprue cutter pivot.
I'm one of those fussy devil's, I only cast a 100 or so before a vous' or shoot, weigh'm, test fire'm for that event, then cast more when I need'm. Probably won't shoot now till late march or april, I spend winter working up loads for supository guns, re-furbs an building an such

 

[buttonbuck]

I am anxious to go out there and do some casting on some day it gets above 50 degrees Illinois gives us some funky weather. I just enjoy the process of casing and weighing balls to sort em and of course shooting them.

 

[FPDoc]

The tiniest little flake of lead on either the mold half faces or sometimes on the locating rods or recesses will hold the blocks slightly open and can cause what you describe. Lots of other excellent advice in the posts above.

 

[DTCoffin]

I have a Lee bottom pour electric pot and every now & then i got to drain it out and clean the spout cause it won't stop dripping between balls, stuff spatters everywhere, wife hates it cause it stinks up the house and burns the kitchen table :nono: :rotf: :rotf: JUST KIDDING !! I do it OUTSIDE or in the garage with the doors open and close to the opening, nasty stuff.

 

[wvbuckbuster]

I bend a paper clip and push it up and down thru the spout to clean it every little bit while casting. This keeps it from building up with sediment and dripping. Have had to take out the cutoff rod and clean out the hole it drops into to shut off the spout. Try the paper clip or small wire of like diameter first.