Many different types and brands of ladles from just a spoon to convertible L/H to R/H spout type. Temp of lead, temp of mold, cadence of pour, venting of sprue plate, technique of pour, all affect quality of casting.
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Casting With Bottom Pour or Ladle?
- Thread starter GregLaRoche
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I started casting with a 10lb Lee bottom pour pot. I had no problems with 50 cal REALs. However I had a lot of rejects when casting long-ish 50 cal bullets, like Lee 515-500. Even more rejects when I tried to cast 45 cal long bullets like Postell from Lyman steel molds etc. Surprisingly I had no issues casting 72 cal round balls, and 12 ga foster slugs using Lee's aluminium molds.
Then I bought a Lyman ladle, I plugged my bottom pour pot's spout and I removed the metal rod that opens and closes it so there is more space to use the ladle and I have no issues with any mold.
So my bottom line is: bottom pour is good enough for balls - even large caliber. It is good enough for many short bullet designs too, but if casting long slender bullets a ladle is much better IMO. I also ladle cast balls 58 cal and up to avoid converting the pot every time. I buy my 44 and 38 cal round balls. If I had to cast them I would probably restore my pot's bottom pour capability just for those small cal balls.
One more thing. Using a ladle with a mold that has more than one cavity is quite difficult(at least for me).
Then I bought a Lyman ladle, I plugged my bottom pour pot's spout and I removed the metal rod that opens and closes it so there is more space to use the ladle and I have no issues with any mold.
So my bottom line is: bottom pour is good enough for balls - even large caliber. It is good enough for many short bullet designs too, but if casting long slender bullets a ladle is much better IMO. I also ladle cast balls 58 cal and up to avoid converting the pot every time. I buy my 44 and 38 cal round balls. If I had to cast them I would probably restore my pot's bottom pour capability just for those small cal balls.
One more thing. Using a ladle with a mold that has more than one cavity is quite difficult(at least for me).
I found that enlarging the hole in the ladle helped when casting minies and large balls and I actually opened the sprue plate somewhat on my Lyman .735 ball mold which gave me better results.
Sprue plate lube and fluxing you’re melt is also very helpful.
Tom Compton
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I mostly use my bottom pour (.495s to .355s).
Came across a used Palmer Hot Pot that is handy for large round balls like .600s and minies because I can pour more lead quickly and mostly avoid wrinkles like above posts opening the pour hole in ladles and bottom pour pots. You can also use a dipper with it. Down side is the small volume of lead it holds but you couldn’t hold the handle and pour if it held 10 lbs.
Now there’s a Hot Pot II that looks good.
Came across a used Palmer Hot Pot that is handy for large round balls like .600s and minies because I can pour more lead quickly and mostly avoid wrinkles like above posts opening the pour hole in ladles and bottom pour pots. You can also use a dipper with it. Down side is the small volume of lead it holds but you couldn’t hold the handle and pour if it held 10 lbs.
Now there’s a Hot Pot II that looks good.
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Bassdog1 I'll hunt the mould or moulds up and let you know when I find them.
Griz44Mag
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In order to cast hollow base or hollow point, the MOLD TEMPERATURE is very important.
If you have issues getting the mold to fill or you get wrinkles, the mold is too cool. Shorten the cycle time or re-heat the mold between casts (I dip the bottom of the mold in the lead pot to do this). Keep practicing, you will get it eventually.
If you have issues getting the mold to fill or you get wrinkles, the mold is too cool. Shorten the cycle time or re-heat the mold between casts (I dip the bottom of the mold in the lead pot to do this). Keep practicing, you will get it eventually.
My Lee bottom pour doesn't drip while warming. I formed a hacksaw blade into a C shaped clamp to cover the spout. It hooks on the top and puts pressure on the spout. I have found that mold temperature has a lot to do with a good pour. I also have a 1000deg. thermometer in the pot for temp. control. I pour everything from Minies to 390s with the pot.
Many Klatch
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I have a 20 pound bottom pour pot. I got tired of it dripping and it didn't do well pouring lead for a .715 Bess ball. The spout did not pour lead fast enough to keep voids from happening in the larger calibers. I removed the moving parts for the spout and installed a screw in the spout, that fixed problem number one. Then I got tired of the tiny little Lyman ladle that always unscrewed itself while I was casting. So I went to the antique store and found a solid one piece ladle that was used by plumber from back in the day. I find that it is easier to cast a lot of ball in one day if I use a ladle. The last casting session was 200 .715, 150 .60 and 200 .435. I pour lead into and on the mold until the ball starts to harden. That reduces the chance of voids.
My wrist acts up after about 75 or so balls. Can't do those long sessions. I keep a some 1lb. ingots nearby and when my pot gets too hot, I drop one in.
I do not understand why someone would stand there watching it leak that much. Oh maybe they left the pot by itself. Not a good idea with any hot molting pot of metal IMHO
Lee bottom pour pots don't drip.
I started in this field in 1975. I use the same setup that I started with. An enamel pot, a Lyman ladle, and my Coleman white gas camp stove. I've used moulds from Lyman, Lee, and the original Dixie steel mould. Guys have been doing this over campfires. Don't over think the process.
I think they are designed that way so you can make #2 shot in between your casts.
More like swan shot.
Greasecookie
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Quit bottom pour pots because I could never stop that kind of thing. Waage is my friend now.
My RCBS pro melt doesn’t really do that but I’m more of a ladle guy.
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