Has anyone used castor oil from model aircraft supply stores? Some of these guys still use it to mix their own fuel and it is a whole lot cheaper than the food grade stuff one buys at the drug stores or Walmart. It should be good stuff since those model aircraft engines run high RPMs, have very close tolerances and would not tolerate any gumming or residue.
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Castor oil
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Gill, use the search feature and type in "Stumpy's Moose Milk". Our very own Stumpkiller invented this stuff and Castor oil is one of the main ingredients.
It works really good. Stumpkiller knows a thing or two about flying model aircraft.
It works really good. Stumpkiller knows a thing or two about flying model aircraft.
Gill, here it is:
Stumpkiller's Moose Milk
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) __ 8 oz.
Castor Oil _______________ 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap ________ 1 oz.
Witch Hazel ______________ 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) __ 16 oz.
Add in the above order and shake well to mix as added, and again before every use or transfer. Oil and water don't mix, dontcha know. Castor is alcohol soluable, but not in water. And yes, the witch hazel does seem to make a difference in how well it smears and coats the bore.
I dip cotton strips twice, allowing them to dry flat, for "dry patching" (it's still oily, but not messy). Works great as a wet lube and powder solvent, too.
For absolute target or hunting I either wipe between shots with a spit patch if using a ball block or else add a drop of fresh Milk to the patch and smear it between my thumb and index finger if cutting at the muzzle.
Stumpkiller's Moose Milk
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) __ 8 oz.
Castor Oil _______________ 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap ________ 1 oz.
Witch Hazel ______________ 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) __ 16 oz.
Add in the above order and shake well to mix as added, and again before every use or transfer. Oil and water don't mix, dontcha know. Castor is alcohol soluable, but not in water. And yes, the witch hazel does seem to make a difference in how well it smears and coats the bore.
I dip cotton strips twice, allowing them to dry flat, for "dry patching" (it's still oily, but not messy). Works great as a wet lube and powder solvent, too.
For absolute target or hunting I either wipe between shots with a spit patch if using a ball block or else add a drop of fresh Milk to the patch and smear it between my thumb and index finger if cutting at the muzzle.
Yep. The Sig Castor works as well as the stuff from the drug stores. My latest batches were made using the Sig and it is good, clear (first press) oil. Probably not worth the difference to have shipped, but when my local hobby store has it I buy a pint.
While cleaning castor off my models I had a light bulb moment a few years back. "Wait a minute! This stuff just went through a hot engine's combustion and is still clear and slippery! This may work in a muzzleloader!"
True 'nuff. I can fly any fixed wing aircraft and land most of 'em. Well, at least bring them down nearby. Sometimes I only have to bend over once to pick them up. :redface:
While cleaning castor off my models I had a light bulb moment a few years back. "Wait a minute! This stuff just went through a hot engine's combustion and is still clear and slippery! This may work in a muzzleloader!"
True 'nuff. I can fly any fixed wing aircraft and land most of 'em. Well, at least bring them down nearby. Sometimes I only have to bend over once to pick them up. :redface:
