Here's one that showed up on facebook today:
I'm glad they turned the camera off before checking her drawers for Hershey squirts.
Here's one that showed up on facebook today:
I suspect that contributes to some of these kinds of things. People see "Cal.44" and go find some .440 round balls, load 'em up and let 'em rip.Karma. if you were desperate to shoot that day you could have liberally lubed up the cylinder mouths and gotten away with it. I have shot .440 RB with liberal dose of vasaline on chamber mouths and no problems other than the mess. . Interesting how all our 44s are really 45s
I believe it can happen from either end as I have seen still shots of percussion revolver fire and flame could be seen at both ends of the cylinder. What I believe to be a factor in preventing rear ignited chain fire is two fold. Nipples with correct orifice's not burned out and full power hammer springs. If the hammer stays down on the spent cap at ignition and is not blown back to half **** then the fire channel is blocked/sealed so even a cap-less charged, adjacent chamber, would not fire.I had a .31 cal Colt clone kit that had many chain fires and all of them happened from the nipple end - I only had #11 caps and they were a loose fit. I guess we all have different experiences.
I've never had a chain fire either and it's probably because I have never lightened a hammer spring but rather install sear lifts to lighten trigger pulls and have always seated oversized balls. Pretty simple remedies really !I admit, those photos & videos of exorbitant fireballs from front & rear of C&B revolvers certainly give one pause. But,During the second full week of Sep they mostly leave me wondering what they're doing differently from me. Are they loading at max capacity and the mainspring can't contain the back pressure. . or, have they lightened the mainspring to similar effect? During the 2nd full week of Sep., I'll be doing prep for my next big match. At dusk onre nite I'll film me shooting a cylinder prepped as usual during a match.
WOW...smoking & shooting BP that close.I'm glad they turned the camera off before checking her drawers for Hershey squirts.
For information just pop a cap on an empty chamber in a darkened place.Very informative video, @TFoley. Thanks for posting it.
I think that information on how to properly fit a percussion cap to the cone of the nipple would have been helpful. I agree with his premise that most chainfires are caused by fire getting around an undersized ball. Once I went to properly sized balls, I eliminated chainfires. I have measured the cones to know which cap size I should be using in that revolver. Remmington #10's with their longer skirt seem to fit better that CCI caps with shorter skirts. CCI #11 caps will fit loosely on the cones sized for a #10 CCI cap.
I have a you are wayyy smarter than that Mark. And have respect for weapons, and those around you. And she failed to take your advice......hearing, and eye protection are strongly encouragedWOW...smoking & shooting BP that close.
If I tried that, my viewers would bury me with negative comments.
by the way even though i cast my own Sharps ring tail bullet those "little" 450 grain beauties cost almost two bits a bang not including powder, Hahn tube and musket cap. Just in case you shoot more my S/S precludes that but good for you.For information just pop a cap on an empty chamber in a darkened place.
Note the ball of fire around the recoil shield.
Then tell be chain fires start at the chamber mouth.
cover the ball with your favorite lube and check each chamber mouth after each shot.
Now go clean that greasy gun.
In the sharps and Smith carbines i use plain lard as a filler between th powder and bullet, the fouling is soft even after 20 or so shots.
Make Smoke!
bunk
Since the ones who have intentionally left a cap off of a cylinder and never had a chain fire have repeated the exercise enough, the evidence seems pretty clear that chain fires do not happen from the rear. There's a reason that a direct amount of heat and pressure from a cap is needed to ignite a charge.For information just pop a cap on an empty chamber in a darkened place.
Note the ball of fire around the recoil shield.
Then tell be chain fires start at the chamber mouth.
cover the ball with your favorite lube and check each chamber mouth after each shot.
Now go clean that greasy gun.
In the sharps and Smith carbines i use plain lard as a filler between th powder and bullet, the fouling is soft even after 20 or so shots.
Make Smoke!
bunk
Yeah, I just put it down and picked up something else as I recall. Man those 440’s must have rattled going down the pipe!Karma. if you were desperate to shoot that day you could have liberally lubed up the cylinder mouths and gotten away with it. I have shot .440 RB with liberal dose of vasaline on chamber mouths and no problems other than the mess. . Interesting how all our 44s are really 45s
You probably have a full strength hammer spring and your nipples are not burned out which will seal from back blast hence chain fire from the rear in capless ajacent charged chambers. That doesn't mean rear chain fire does not happen in other guns with weak hammer springs and eroded nipples.Since the ones who have intentionally left a cap off of a cylinder and never had a chain fire have repeated the exercise enough, the evidence seems pretty clear that chain fires do not happen from the rear. There's a reason that a direct amount of heat and pressure from a cap is needed to ignite a charge.
The weak hammer spring is an interesting variable to consider...You probably have a full strength hammer spring and your nipples are not burned out which will seal from back blast hence chain fire from the rear in capless ajacent charged cylinders. That doesn't mean rear chain fire does not happen in other guns with weak hammer springs and eroded nipples.
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