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chambers flintlock vs. lyman GPR flint

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bluecarpenter

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I know everyone here talks about the chambers flintlock being one of the best out there.
In my quest in raising the funds for getting a lyman GPR flinter I'm am constantly questioning myself if this is the best way to go. :confused: though money is a factor in this also.
I know I can put a chambers lock on later or I think I can anyway.
guess I'm looking at getting a lyman kit versus a frontier rifle kit that can get a chambers lock for about a 100 bucks or so more.
what holds me back on the longer rifle is lack of experience I guess. the cleaning aspect anyway. lyman you just pull 2 pins and the barrel is removed and then can be put in a pan of hot water. not sure about frontier rifle . guess this question is 2 fold.
 
I'm not sure which if any of the Chambers locks would fit a Lyman GPR rifle easily. I know L and R makes some replacement locks.

Get a GPR and enjoy it as it is. Dressing it up with a Chambers lock is unnecessary. If/when you want/need an earlier style custom or semi-custom rifle, get it made with a Chambers lock if that's what you want.
 
Get the GPR kit. You don't need a pan of hot water. All you need is a round toothpick, and some tepid water to clean your flintlock.
 
please explain the tooth pick and tempid water. I'm used to sticking the breach end in hot soaping water and running the ramrod with patch up and down sucking water up into barrel several times with clean patches. does not take long to clean barrel. helps clean out the nipple on my caplock that way.
 
You stick the round toothpick in the touchhole, and fill the barrel 1/2 full of tepid water. Slosh the water around and dump it out. Patch it out and repeat. You can use windshield washer fluid instead of water if you like. It works really well too. 3-4 patches are usually all you need. Good shooting!

Hot soapy water causes rust.... :thumbsup:
 
If you haven't already found them, there are some very good threads on building Lyman kits over at the Gun Builders Bench section here at MLF. Lots of folks have experience solving the small problems you might encounter, plus there are terrific examples of styles and alternative finishes. I bet after looking at all those, you won't be able to start your own kit soon enough!
 
Sure hot water causes rust, Thats because the metals clean, anything less is undesirable :hmm:
 
I would agree with Rich, get the LGP and get started, most folks have found these to be pretty good flinters for the price, if the flint bug bites hard you can later get a higher grade gun with a better lock, maybe even one that has a strong historical connection of your choice, if the PC bug bites as well.
 
Heres how I clean my long rifles, Toothpick in nipple or touchole.Liquid of choice, hold finger on muzzle end, slosh up and down,now lean rifle at slant with lock toward ground,with flint you will want to lean to side so liquid dosen't get in to lock, with cap you can let drain with hammer toward ground. Then patch it dry and oil. Dilly
 
Why are so many of you afraid of a little rust? rust is our friend if controlled. Rust Brown, Rust Blue. Now if anyone cleans a rifle barrel with hot or cold water and does not put some kind rust inhiditor in it rather quickly he/she is a plain fool and deserves what they get.
Everytime you pull the trigger with a live load you are doing much more harm to your barrel then a little micro surface rust after a wash/rinse with hot water.
I'll take a hot water rinsed barrel that will heat up the barrel and evaporate all the water out/off the metal anyday over a cold rinse.
 
hot water always worked when washing dishes and then they dry. works on the barrel to and then ya swab it with a bit of bore butter or something along that line.

As far as the chambers Kit I'm wanting to get a flinter that is decent and not cost me an arm and a leg. $700 or more is a lot of money for me. 3 to 4 hundred is still a lot but a little easier to come by hopfully.
 
I don't put my hooked breech barrels in a pan of water. I like them for the convenience of not having to wrestle around a five foot rifle. I just pull them and use room temprature TOW Bore Clean mixed 50/50 with water. Substitute water with a little dish soap, straight water or Windex for cleaning. All work fine. I have yet to see rust formation while I was cleaning.

I've seen guys use Mark's method to great effect also with no rust formation. Take your pick of methods.

I'm with Rich in that I don't think a Chambers lock will fit the GPR at all. All of his locks are either germanic or golden age which would look strange on a GPR even if you could get it to fit. L&R makes a replacement lock for that rifle that is rather easy to fit and would be more in keeping with the GPR design.
 
"anything less is undesirable "
You can have just as clean a barrel with cold water, if you chose that method.There is no advantage in useing hot water.
 
One of the simplest tricks to easy cleaning, and I haven't seen it posted lately, is to clean as soon as posible after your shooting session. Don't let the crud set up in the barrel.

Bill
 
Bill is right,
I shoot in the early afternoon and clean as soon as I get home.
COLD WATER, bore brush, swab until clean. Just a little light mineral oil on the last swab.
Takes 10mins and NO RUST.
I always take to lock off, just throw it in the bucket of cold water, wipe it off, clean up the vent area.
Don't think I need to go that far, but I do.
I shoot it every couple of days, NOT once a year.
 
Good point Bill, I like to wet swab with spit a bunch before I head home this pretty much cleans the barrel or at least keeps it soft till I get home to clean it for storage.
 
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