Chambers smooth rifle build

[Comfortably_Numb]

Buttplate screw should be in the heal. Too late now.

 

[Coldfingers]

Buttplate screw should be in the heal. Too late now.

The top screw should be farther back? Is that what you are saying?

to late now, The next one will be better.

 

[Coldfingers]

This is the pic I looked at to get the location.

 

[IanH]

I would have drilled the heel screw straight through the crown of the curve, at a 45 degree angle, used a countersunk screw, and filed it to match the curve, deepening the screw slot if required.

 

[Brokennock]

Buttplate screw should be in the heal. Too late now.

Out of my own ignorance and curiosity,,, is there any way to fill the hole in the brass then drill and place the screw where it should be?
I'm sure it would take quite a bit of work, but might be worth it, and a learning experience.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have tapped miss-drilled trigger guard lugs, counter sunk the hole slightly, inserted a screw with soft solder, peened the screw into the counter sink slightly and filed everything to match. With a trigger guard lug, it didn't matter if the patch showed, it was almost invisible.

If you plan to do this, I would practice on some scrap brass first. Of course, you can buy another buttplate, on my English fowler I messed up the hole drilling to the point that I bought another buttplate and started over. This was my second gun; I was still learning.

 

[IanH]

Out of my own ignorance and curiosity,,, is there any way to fill the hole in the brass then drill and place the screw where it should be?
I'm sure it would take quite a bit of work, but might be worth it, and a learning experience.

I would use the existing screw hole as a mounting point for a brass hook for the return. A simple brass round-head bolt could be threaded into the hole from the bottom, cut off a little proud of the top surface, and planished over. The stock would then be inlet deeper to clear the bolt head and a screw inserted so the underside of both heads hook each other. That would keep the tip of the return sucked down into the inlet.

 

[Coldfingers]

Progress is being made.
Ramrod pipes are pinned.

 

[Coldfingers]

Ok, now I am not sure what to do with the wood at the muzzle.

And am I correct in thinking the trigger guard is surface mount?

 

[CuNosecap]

Merry Christmas Coldfingers. With no nose cap, that stock is meant to be trimmed back about 1/4” much like a Fowler.
The trigger guard should be inlet and cross pinned.

 

[CuNosecap]

It appears you still have a lot of wood to remove at the nose.

 

[Coldfingers]

Well I suck at updating this thread.

Progress has been made.
Everything has been filed, sanded, inlaid, scraped, drilled and taped.

I have a nice Shiney lock and barrel.

The only setback is somewhere along the way I misplaced the rear sight. I have put off ordering one in the hopes of finding it, but now I need it.

 

[Coldfingers]

Can't upload more pics,

 

[victor#0]

To bad I was hoping to see more. Stopped in at Swanny's to load up on powder the other day. Getting ready for spring bear baiting.

 

[Coldfingers]

Yesterday morning it got stain.
And last evening a coat of orange dye

 

[PathfinderNC]

Good to see your updates on this build- getting close to the end!
I spy some outlines around the lock and side panel moldings. Did you wire inlay those? Hard to tell.

 

[Coldfingers]

Good eye Sir.
I will show that off in the next few days.

 

[Coldfingers]

Somehow it got dirty!

 

[Coldfingers]

Here it is, somewhere between a sows ear and silk purse.

BUT I LIKE IT!

Still need to install the rear sight when I get it

 

[CuNosecap]

Beautiful. Loving the inlay.