cheek slapper

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Absolutely correct, and why I suggested standing and being more upright mayr help the OP.

My local club has benches for average size shooters. I get as high as I can but the setup gets wobbly (I need to come up with something better than this) but much higher and the muzzle comes close to the header over the shooting position. My spotting scope in the photo is just under the header. Range is in an urban area, so it's an effort to force everyone to keep the muzzles pointed low, but a bit awkward for taller shooters.

Rifle in the photo is not my cheek slapper, it has a straight and low comb.
Dang how do you shoot offhand with a header that low? I have an adjustable rest but still had to make a box to get it up high enough. Also when shooting an offhand rifle it will be on the rest where my hand would be holding it shooting offhand. If you can't go much higher then maybe make a stool that is lower.
 
This is not PC but it's removable and fixed this cheek slapper.
 

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I also shoot a pedersoli Pennsylvania in .50cal, yes they can bite. I shoot mine like a Southern gun, getting it a little farther out from my shoulder allows me to get the butt a little higher and get a tighter cheek weld. I also limit the load to 40gr fff or 60gr ff which also limits recoil. She's a great shooting gun and has won me a few postal matches.

Chris
 
Permit me to add my $0.02. To wit, I have a T/C Renegade SB whose stock doesn't fit me and is quite a cheek bruiser. One day, I got the idea to make a pattern of the rear stock (brown paper bag), the use it to lay out some synthetic fleece that I had on hand. I then sewed that to the rear stock and pretty much eliminated the problem.
 
My Traditions Kentucky rifle loaded with anything above 60 grains and fired from a bench rest slaps a little. Shooting standing up (the way it should be done) with 50 grains is comfortable.
 
US Army basic training in '66: There were not enough M14's and M16's to go around. We did basic with the M1. We were taught the secrets to taming recoil were:
1) Pulling the butt tight into your shoulder socket. Then recoils is a push instead of a punch.
2) "Spot weld" your cheek to your right thumb. As if your head were part of the rifle. Helps to keep recoil a push instead of a jolt. Not doing this can result in the rifle travelling a slight distance to strike your face.
At that time I had been shooting since age 6. The mantra was "Recoil is supposed to hurt. Get over it." I was quite happy to learn otherwise.
 
You would not believe the amount of $2000-$8000 skeet and trap guns I’ve seen that were attacked with a rasp and plane! The owners didn’t care, they wanted to be able to hit!
 
US Army basic training in '66: There were not enough M14's and M16's to go around. We did basic with the M1. We were taught the secrets to taming recoil were:
1) Pulling the butt tight into your shoulder socket. Then recoils is a push instead of a punch.
2) "Spot weld" your cheek to your right thumb. As if your head were part of the rifle. Helps to keep recoil a push instead of a jolt. Not doing this can result in the rifle travelling a slight distance to strike your face.
At that time I had been shooting since age 6. The mantra was "Recoil is supposed to hurt. Get over it." I was quite happy to learn otherwise.
Great method! My Dad taught me this many years ago when I was using a 375 H&H for Elk hunting. I was 15 years old and weighed 135 pounds. When done right the recoil of the big 375 H&H was more of a shove.
 
Some good points already mentioned. Shooting from a bench amplifies felt recoil. Most are somewhat scrunched down behind the gun. If you can get the gun high enough that your back is straight up it helps tremendously. he Brits used a standing rest to zero their heavy African guns, it allows you to roll with the recoil.

Traditional American stock design from the black powder era was also generally pretty poor. Too much drop, inclined combs, both magnify felt recoil and muzzle rise. Part of why I dropped out of shooting muzzle loaders for a long time was the horrible stocks most had, and I of course rather poo-pooed the stocks that "werent traditional". I eventually got over that, as well as realizing most English sporting stocks were far better designed than American ones, so i could somewhat accept better designed stocks as "traditional enough".

Lowering combs shouldnt be a stumbling block. As someone mentioned, motivated shooters grinding on high grade expensive guns to allow them to fit better, and some agonize over relatively cheap guns being modified to fit. Dad ground combs down on several high grade shotguns to fit him as well as adjusting length and balance as needed.

As a first step, reduce the load to a comfortable level, and work back up if you really need the extra power for hunting or longer range, and work on the shooting technique and stock as needed. Its probably not insurmountable.

Some comments reminded me of things Ive heard over the years such as "the trigger pull was too heavy so i sold it and got a _______(fill in blank) that had a better pull ". Uh, did you think to get the trigger pull corrected by someone?
 
I've owned mostly T/C rifles, good guns at a modest price. The Hawken models were fine as they came from the manufacturer but the Renegades were a problem. here's how I solved that "cheek slapping" stuff, nice of T/C to park that burl right in the middle of the wrist, eh?
 

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If your getting smacked on the bench but not offhand you need to get the rifle up higher on the bench. When I shoot an offhand rifle on the bench it is set up higher so that my cheek will be on the stock the same place as when I shoot offhand. that way you are not over the comb trying to pick up the sights.
I see this exact thing with both my traditions. Get the rifle higher on the bench and get a good high cheek weld. Seems to make a huge difference.
 
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