Cherry Build - Barrel Inlet

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Erzulis boat

45 Cal.
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Picture113.jpg

This is the initial squaring of the barrel channel breech area. Since this area is so critical for distribution of recoil forces, I make positively sure that complete contact is made.
The black colored block of wood is a riser that allows the barrel to be progressively inlet straight down. As I go, the blocks of wood will become thinner. This prevents the dreaded slight forward creep of the barrel assembly while inletting.


Picture111.jpg

The tang is profiled to go straight down as per the blueprint.


Picture115.jpg

You do not need a lot of tools to to do the job.
As I do this more, the number of tools that I grab becomes less and less!
The curl scraper is from Brownells, and really works. I just sharpen it and do not do the edge burnishing thing, as it works like a champ without "rolling" the edge.
The center chisel is an inlet chisel from TOTW, and is the Queen of all chisels. It doubles as a chisel and a scraper. I scrape more than I chisel, never underestimate the power of a scraper!
The big guy is a razor sharp Japanese chisel for the bigger cuts.
As you can see, if you are a beginner like me, you do not need go out and buy a bunch of tools. :v
 
Do you really work ouside, or is it just for "the movie"? If you do, must be hell on your fingers from the cold. Having lost one 30 years ago, can't tolerate the cold or damp cold very much anymore ( before the accident I loved being outside working in the winter... I still do it when asked but I certainly don't love it.)
 
Actually it is still warm enough to work outside after about 10:00 AM.
I much prefer natural sunlight! :)
 
The slab of wood was supplied by Dunlap Woodcrafts, and was over 3 inches thick. It almost brought tears to my eyes to turn so much into sawdust! Actually, I have some nice chunks left.
This project is a "Vincent/Hawken" hybrid scratchbuild.
The barrel channel was opened up using a Bridgeport mill with the "endmill to depth and width - then connect the sides with a 45 degree cutter" method. The cutter never went past 2200 RPM, because cherry burns fast! If you look at the top image, that dark spot on the leading edge of the comb is a shallow burn (it will come out, as everything is way oversize 1/8" at least).
The table travel allows for a halfstock without having to shift the blank. It was made slightly undersize as the figured cherry can chip out some times. The curl scraper did the rest.
This project has been chronicled from the beginning as "Cherry Build".
Thanks- :)
 
Very nice! I have a block of wood that I need to shape one day when I get brave. I may chicken out and get someone else to do it. Getting it precarved would probably be wise for me since I have limited experience with that level of woodwork and almost no woodworking tools...
 
It is shaped way oversize, as you can see from the picture with the barrel set in.
I am not an experienced builder, and had to see just how small and skinny a "Vincent" style rifle is!
The components will also drive the dimensions too. After I finished installing the buttplate last night, it really dawned on me. The buttplate is tiny! A lot of wood came off.
My lock panels were way wide too, I started with a 1.625", and now am at 1.4 already!
I am from the "Better Safe Than Sorry" school.
 
I have always heard that it is easier to cut wood off than cut it on, so you are on the right track. :haha:

If you need something to do after you are finished with that beautiful gun, let me know if you want to whittle out another stock!
 
Hey E-boat:

What's the Brownell's part number on that curl scraper? I made a few like that from Black Diamond chisel stock years ago (whilst a gunsmithing student at TSJC in Colo.) Haven't found chisel stock in these parts so will buy a ready-made scraper. Searched Brownell's on-line catalog but no joy.

I asked Santa for that same TOTW inletting chisel in 1/4" sixe and am really looking forward to Christmas Eve.

v/r, Bluejacket
 
The Brownells part no. is 080-076-250 for the 1/4" wide, and is 080-076-375 for the 3/8".
I purchased the 1/4" version.
It works great with light, even pressure.
:v
 
I was waiting for someone to ask that question!
It is a 6-40 blind hole that corresponds to a counterbored hole on the lockplate.
Since I am using only one lockbolt, I have a secondary anchor for the lockplate.
This makes it super solid, and positively keeps the lockplate and barrel on the same sheet of music, no matter what Mother Nature throws my way!
 

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