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Clay Hand Crank Forge. (Farrier type)

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Twice boom

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Any of you did it.I just finished rebuilding my hand crank cast Iron forge. Easy enough to do by suspending wire mesh to the sides via bolts to clay over. Just wondering if regular good old Indiana ground clay will do the trick for me.I don't want any more cracked bottom.

Twice
 
I used chicken wire and mortar for laying bricks to build my forge. I've heard concrete works just as good.

Regards
Loyd
Loveland Colorado
 
Loyd. This forge is one of those cast Iron tub types with a hand crank blower attached.. that was made by Canedy/Otto out of Chicago ..

Thanks for the suggestion. I already have it done and covered with plastic to keep it from cracking durring the drying...
Twice
 
I have the same style portable riveters forge. I cut a piece of heavy steel to fit the bottom and make the fire on it, helps keep the original iron from taking a lot of heat. I don't line it, but I do line my big stationary brick forge with mortar mix that chimney masons use. I would advise against the use of concrete as the air bubbles and moisture could cause it to explode. Saw it happen.(not my shop, I've done concrete work for 10 years and know the stuff!)
 
Like A dummy I cracked the bottom trying to control the heat with water. I spent the better part of the day welding the bottom on boths sides. And couple hours mixing the clay (where's my two year old grandson when you need him :rotf: ) for the bottom and sides. Turned out pretty good . We'll see if the Hoosier clay is up to the task,in couple of days... :grin:
Twice.
 
Regular ground "clay" will work. It just might crack on you as it dries out. And it might crack the first couple times you fire up the forge - as the clay ... cures ... with the heat. Just putty in some more clay in/over the cracks.

The bottom on my smaller rectangular portable forge cracked on one side a few years ago. I just drilled a couple holes and bolted some strap iron across it. Last year the other side also cracked. More bolted on strap iron and it's holding up well.

I did not line it with anything. In use, I stack up hard fire bricks around the center - to concentrate the fire. Usually one layer laid flat and one stacked up on edge. Then I move them about as I need "openings" to put iron through to the fire.

Years ago I lined one of the round "rivet" forges with cement. I just mixed up part of a bag of "kwik-crete" - sand mix not rock mix. And then I cured it thoroughly. Plus I fired it up very carefully - to slowly drive out any moisture that might have been left in some of the sand in the cement. I did not want any of those "explosions" from trapped moisture. I did have to patch one section after some use. A crack had developed, and every time I fired it up some more of the lining crumbled. So I patched it - once. Then I moved on to just stacking in fire bricks.

As has already been pointed out, a couple scraps of thick sheet iron laid down on the cast iron does help protect it some from the heat of the fire. But in use, most any cast iron forge will crack at some time. The uneven heating and expansion in the cast iron is the cause, and it's only a matter of time as to when it might crack. Kind of like the cast iron bottoms on the Round Oak wood stoves. They last a long time, but most develope a crack at some point.

Just a few humble thoughts to share. Take them as such.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

p.s. Now it's time to rest. After being out of commission for the past week and a half, I had to get some work done today. So I forged up 28 flint strikers - in 6 different shapes/styles. Yeah, I pushed it, and now I'm feeling it. But I had to get the work done. All in my continuing efforts to NOT have to ask you if "... you want fries with that?"
 
Thanks for your humble suggestions. Advil works well for my pains and aches..... :thumbsup:

Twice
 
Lining the bottom is a good idea, if exposed to cold weather it helps prevent the pan from cracking and retains your heat. Next time try mixing some wood ash with your clay, the clay alone will often bake to a glassy hard surface, when the ash is added it will be much easier to repair cracks etc
 

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