Cleaning a custom rifle?

[custom smokepole]

Newbie to flintlocks as far as cleaning. I just purchased a custom rifle form TOTW. The barrel is 42" long and is well established in the stock. I do not want to take this out everytime I want to clean the barrel. Can I just turn it on its side and have it come out that way? I have seen the little gadgets at TOTW with a small hose and clamp. Opinions on what is best? I did go back through the history, and read quite a few older posts, but not much luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Coot]

There have been quite a few posts on cleaning methods. Like patch lubes, each person has their preference which does not mean that their preference is the only satisfactory one. In short, it is not necessary to remove the barrel for each cleaning. Depending on the climate where you live and whether you get the gun wet, occasional removal of the barrel to prevent rusting in the stock may be prudent. For normal cleaning, some like the flushing tube system while others simply plug the vent with a (round) toothpick and pour water down the barrel. Both methods work. Do not simply turn the gun on it's side without sealing the vent hole as some cleaning water will find its way into the barrel channel in the stock. Likewise, do not overflow the barrel if pouring water in. If using a flush tube, the gun can be positioned with the muzzle lower than the breech to prevent water from dripping from the muzzle into the stock. For what its worth, I use the toothpick plug system & pull the barrel about once a year.

 

[George T.]

Does it have a stainless insert? I cleaned my flinter with the vent down to keep the stock from getting dirty water on it. Just follow up with oil and clean the lock well. Geo. T.

 

[M. De Land]

I've started cleaning my guns upside down in my shooting box cradle or my padded vice when I get home unless it has a hooked breech. Keeps the water and crud out of the stock and the action on my single shots. MD

 

[Trench]

It's all easier than you might think. Most of us leave the barrel in. The tootpick method works great. I fill my barrel up with water and let it sit for 10 minutes after I get back from the range. I empty it and then I fill it half way and shake it as a rinse. I'll do that twice and then start running patches down the barrel.

 

[custom smokepole]

Thanks to all that have replied. I will try the tooth pick method. Yes, it does have a SS liner. I know this question was asked before, and I appreciate everyone taking the time to answer.
Aim small miss small...

 

[gl1200a]

"I have seen the little gadgets at TOTW with a small hose and clamp."

I have one of these and it works great.
Had to grind the clamp a bit for a good fit.
Never leaks.

 

[Vaino]

The fastidious guy that I am w/ my guns and also the fact that my hunting rifles have keys for bbl removal, w/ pinned bbls I use duct tape to "close" the TH w/ the lock removed. Then more duct tape at the muzzle to form a "dam" to keep the dirty water out of the bbl inlet.

Upside down and using a cradle also sounds good.....Fred

 

[Spikebuck]

On my Flinters, I always remove the lock for cleaning. If I don't use my flush tube, I just put a rag under the vent hole to catch crud and run soapy hot water down on patches. I then use a toothbrush to scrub the lock. I run a few dry patches down the barrel. An oiled patch. Dry the lock and spray it down with RemOil or WD40 and wipe. Put the lock back on. I also wipe the whole exterior of the gun with RemOil.

 

[Dean2]

"I have seen the little gadgets at TOTW with a small hose and clamp."

I have one of these and it works great.
Had to grind the clamp a bit for a good fit.
Never leaks.

Mine is at it came from TOW, looks great but it doesn't work well at all. Maybe futzing with it would get it where I want, but the toothpick and water method works excellent so I have never bothered with the clamp and tube.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Toothpick method for me.
My longrifle, with highly figured stock is so delicate with barrel out I fear it would break if I look crosseyed at it. Been out once in 38 years.

 

[MJMarkey]

I always remove the barrel on all my muzzleloading rifles. I think it's the only way to really clean a barrel. I've never had a hint of rust. I want to keep water and fouling sludge away from my stocks as much as possible. Powder residue running down the stock while you're cleaning will leave black stains that sometime are permanent. This is the way I do it and why. Your rifle clean it your way.

 

[custom smokepole]

Thanks again to all whom replied. Can I ask, what do you do in a drop camp lets say? When I am on horse back for 5-6 hours to a base camp, you are somewhat limited on weight, not that a lot of what you gents say weigh a lot, but it takes up valuable room for other important items. But there is no way I would disasseble my rifle in base camp, and risk losing a pin or what have you when trying to clean.
Sorry for all the questions.

 

[Grenadier1758]

In camp cleaning can be done with a toothpick in the touch hole, several changes of water in the bore and wiping with a dry patch followed by a lubricated patch to minimize rust in the bore.

Atooth pick doesn't take up much room and you should have water in your base camp.

 

[custom smokepole]

As I figured as much. Is this enough at home to? I am trying to keep this as simple as possible, and really do not want to take apart. I will also have a bottle of rubbing alcohol in camp, for cuts, etc. Thanks for the reply. You are right about the tooth pick, it will not take up to much room!

 

[nchawkeye]

Mine stays in the patch box...I've cleaned this way since the 70s...

Typically I'll use plain tap water, after wiping I'll use either some rubbing alcohol or WD-40 to help dry...

It's really not rocket science, just clean the residue, dry and oil...

 

[custom smokepole]

Thanks again NCHawkeye. This is what I will do. I hate to think that I might of had to take this thing apart to clean. I shoot a lot, so if I do this after every shooting day, I believe it will be fine. I just like to continue what I do at home or range to the hunting camp also. Toothpicks, water, alcohol, and some ballistrol, etc. That will be all she wrote.
Aim small, miss small...

 

[Many Klatch]

Warm or cool water will work fine for removing the crud. I find that a green scrubby pad cut to size or a wad of bronze wool on the end of the ramrod will speed cleaning. Then remove the toothpick, wipe it dry and oil or grease it. Keep it simple.

If the toothpick is too much weight you can always carve one when you get to camp. :grin:

Many Klatch

 

[Col. Batguano]

"I have seen the little gadgets at TOTW with a small hose and clamp."

I have one of these and it works great.
Had to grind the clamp a bit for a good fit.
Never leaks.

Mine is at it came from TOW, looks great but it doesn't work well at all. Maybe futzing with it would get it where I want, but the toothpick and water method works excellent so I have never bothered with the clamp and tube.

that was my experience too. Not a satisfactory device.

Now I just pull the barrel. Since it was assembled / disassembled about 100 times during the build, a few more won't hurt. If I hog out the holes too much I can always make some bigger pins, but that's what the estucheons are in there for.

 

[Bob J]

I use the flintlock EZ Cleaner flush kit. I mix a little Ballistol with water as the cleaning solution. Once flushed, dry real good, then straight Ballistol for bore protection. Here's a link: www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com