Cleaning - After Round Ball vs Maxi or Real

[Huntinshep]

Have always shot RB and cleaned with water. Since barrel is not protected by a patch do you have to do anything different after shooting a Maxi or Real? May try them in the future. Thanks

 

[Are. M.]

It's been a long time since I've shot anything but PRB, but I remember the lead fouling (if any) wasn't anything that couldn't be removed with a bore brush. There's an anti-brush camp that will offer an opinion soon. Standby.

 

[new2bp]

No difference in how I clean any given gun based on what ammo is being shot. But for my metallic cartridge stuff I avoid corrosive surplus like the plague, think if I didn't I'd have to have a slightly different process there, closer to how I clean BP rifle.,..

 

[Maven]

Have always shot RB and cleaned with water. Since barrel is not protected by a patch do you have to do anything different after shooting a Maxi or Real? May try them in the future. Thanks

The only thing different that I do is to damp swab the bore after every 2nd shot (hunting) or if target shooting, after each shot. Otherwise the final clean up is the same. Btw, I've never got bore leading as a consequence of shooting Maxi-Balls or REALs.

 

[TDM]

Please edit Bore Brush from your post before anyone else reads it. Please.

 

[Greg_E]

I will say that some (especially cheap) metallic brushes are bad news, they are brass plated steel.

The only issue I can see with a good all copper or bronze brush is that the bristles flex when you run it down, then they need to flex the other way to come back out. I can see where this might be a problem.

Some all copper ChoreBoy pad pulled apart and run down wrapped around a smaller brush should be plenty fine since it won't flex back and forth.

But I would also suggest that everyone get an inexpensive Teslong bore scope, yes I know, I'm a radical who will now need to be mocked. Get the screw on mirror kit because running a 20 cal camera down a 50 cal barrel is really frustrating. A 40 cal mirror in that same barrel is a huge improvement. I don't think they make a number mirror kit for 50 to 70+ cal barrels, but I should probably send them a message and see if they might make one for us.

Wicked ugly 50 cal airgun barrel with 40 call mirror, this was a brand new, only test fired at the factory rifle

Yes that's lead and rust and machine marks, and off center cut leade. A little off topic, but these cameras are worth the small amount of money.

 

[amcmullen]

But I would also suggest that everyone get an inexpensive Teslong bore scope,

Videos like that are why I DON'T want to buy one! I'd probably lose a lot of sleep!

Pretty cool, thanks for sharing

 

[TDM]

Videos like that are why I DON'T want to buy one! I'd probably lose a lot of sleep!

Pretty cool, thanks for sharing

I was going to say the same thing. I bought a borescope sometime ago. I looked at all my barrels. Then I put it back in the box. Never plan to take it out again. Too much information.

 

[Greg_E]

I agree they can be scary, but very useful tool.

 

[TDM]

Yes, they are useful.

 

[Greg_E]

Let me add that I have a 40 year old CVA that hasn't been touched in those 40 years... I have some parts to fix it up and use it again, but I will scope the barrel before loading it to make sure it didn't turn into a tomato stake. The exterior is good, but worried what might be on the inside.

 

[TDM]

Undersized patch jag, green scotchbrite, and some Kroil will take care of most bad finds. Maybe a little JB bore paste thrown in for good measure.

 

[nhmoose]

Please edit Bore Brush from your post before anyone else reads it. Please.

Why? Please WHY?

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

My cleaning procedure generally involves fitted jags, cotton patches, a gallon or so of hot water with Murphy's Oil soap and a rinse after using the patches with hot tap water. I have used boiling water, but never really had any better results, so went back to the hot tap water which is much easier to use.

Tried the secret recipe of 1/3 each of Murphy's Oil Soap, isopropyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. Yes it works, but it will rust your gun in very short order and it is not necessary. Commercial black powder solvents work just fine for a field cleaning.

I regularly shoot REAL bullets, patched round balls and jacketed/cast lead pistol/revolver bullets in plastic sabots. I generally keep the loads fairly light. I am a believer in seasoning bores with any non-petroleum patch/bullet lube, though I do not use it with sabots except for the first shot where the bore already has a light coat to prevent/reduce rust. My lube of choice is usually T/C Bore Butter, but I have used Crisco, aerosolized cooking spray, butter, bacon grease, lard and vegetable oil. The oils do not work well with conical/REAL bullets.

I've NEVER noticed any leading. Since switching to Bore Butter/Natural Lube 1000 back in the early 1990's I haven't had any noticeable black powder fowling even after extended shooting sessions, which for me is generally about ten shots. I use Old Eynsford black powder and/or Triple 7... often both with the BP as an "ignition charge".

I've had concerns about plastic deposits from sabots, but so far have had no evidence of any plastic deposits. Apparently the manufacturers have solved that issue if it ever did exist in the first place.

I've encountered badly pitted barrels that cannot ever be really cleaned well. Some of these still shoot acceptable groups.

Bottom line is that I find no reason to vary my cleaning procedure depending upon what sort of projectile or propellant I am shooting. So long as I can still get Murphy's Oil Soap, I will continue to use it.

 

[Frontier's]

Nothing wrong with a bore brush. Never had any issues. I even wrap a cleaning patch around mine.

 

[Trooper]

I use a teslong bore scope as well. That darned contraption is a real eye opener and worth every penny!

 

[Vtmountaindeerhunter]

I clean with a bore brush with patch over top. I thought the bristles would push Into the rifling. Should I use just a jag ?? Why not a bore brush.? Sometimes they get lost at the bottom.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

I clean with a bore brush with patch over top. I thought the bristles would push Into the rifling. Should I use just a jag ?? Why not a bore brush.? Sometimes they get lost at the bottom.

This method works, but I generally get the bore brush out only when I have a badly rusted bore to clean. I have lost patches in the bore, but they are relatively easy to get out so long as you have an appropriately sized worm for your gun.

Now if you get a bore brush stuck in the bore, you may have a real problem, especially if you were foolish enough to try to use a wooden ramrod for your cleaning rod. I've seen more than a few guns with stuck brushes and the pulled-off wooden ramrod end still attached to it. If it is a traditional gun, you may need to send it to a gunsmith for removal. This often requires the removal of the breach plug... which can mean sending it to the manufacturer. Use aluminum range rods or steel cleaning rods with secure pulling handles.

There are certainly people here with more experience than I have, but IMHO, you should use bronze brushes and a non-wooden ramrod for cleaning, or better yet, get a fitted jag that works well with your cotton cleaning patches and whatever solvent you use. If the jag loses patches regularly, you should get thicker patches or use two patches with each pass down the bore. I have a .50 caliber stainless barrel that seems a bit looser than my other .50s so I use two patches.

As with all things, your mileage may vary.

 

[Uncle Miltie]

My cleaning procedure generally involves fitted jags, cotton patches, a gallon or so of hot water with Murphy's Oil soap and a rinse after using the patches with hot tap water. I have used boiling water, but never really had any better results, so went back to the hot tap water which is much easier to use.

Tried the secret recipe of 1/3 each of Murphy's Oil Soap, isopropyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. Yes it works, but it will rust your gun in very short order and it is not necessary. Commercial black powder solvents work just fine for a field cleaning.

I regularly shoot REAL bullets, patched round balls and jacketed/cast lead pistol/revolver bullets in plastic sabots. I generally keep the loads fairly light. I am a believer in seasoning bores with any non-petroleum patch/bullet lube, though I do not use it with sabots except for the first shot where the bore already has a light coat to prevent/reduce rust. My lube of choice is usually T/C Bore Butter, but I have used Crisco, aerosolized cooking spray, butter, bacon grease, lard and vegetable oil. The oils do not work well with conical/REAL bullets.

I've NEVER noticed any leading. Since switching to Bore Butter/Natural Lube 1000 back in the early 1990's I haven't had any noticeable black powder fowling even after extended shooting sessions, which for me is generally about ten shots. I use Old Eynsford black powder and/or Triple 7... often both with the BP as an "ignition charge".

I've had concerns about plastic deposits from sabots, but so far have had no evidence of any plastic deposits. Apparently the manufacturers have solved that issue if it ever did exist in the first place.

I've encountered badly pitted barrels that cannot ever be really cleaned well. Some of these still shoot acceptable groups.

Bottom line is that I find no reason to vary my cleaning procedure depending upon what sort of projectile or propellant I am shooting. So long as I can still get Murphy's Oil Soap, I will continue to use it.

Hydrogen peroxide should never be used to clean gun barrels: any metallurgist will tell you this....

 

[morehops52]

Using a bore scope is like looking at your face in a magnifying mirror. There are things you really don’t want to see