i just bought a pedersoli flintlock and being used to my hawken i never give it much thought on how to clean this new one. it is a .32 with a fullstock thats pinned. do you have to remove pins to clean or how does everyone do it?
cleaning full stock flintlock
- Thread starter Mr Hawken
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,537
- Reaction score
- 94
Remove the lock and clean it. Leave the barrel in the stock. Clean the barrel by putting a toothpick or other plug in the vent hole, pour in water, soap, shake, or pump your your Ramrod with cleaning jag and cleaning patches up and down the barrel, and then pour out the water soap and crud. Repeat, then rinse the barrel out with clean water. Dry with clean patches. Then oil or lube. Wipe off the outside of the barrel to remove fingerprints, and dirt, clean your lock with hot water and soap and an old tooth brush, remove the plug in the vent, an put the lock back on dry, checked to see if the screws are down properly, and oiled. Oil the outside of the lock, and wipe the stock down, to remove dirt, soot, fingerprints, and anything that might harm the stock. wax the stock if you think it needs a coat to preserve the wood in wet weather. Done.
Not sure which model you have but if the touch hole is removable, you can get a nipple and tube that will fit it. You put the end of the tube in a container of cleaner and pump the barrel with a cleaning jag and patch sucking up the cleaner into the barrel and the result is a really easily cleaned barrel with little fuss of muss. Remember to put anti-seize on the liner threads before reinstalling it.
Fullstock58
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2007
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 0
I always wanted to try one of these.
[url] http://www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com/ez.htm[/url]
[url] http://www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com/ez.htm[/url]
Last edited by a moderator:
Desert Ratxx
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2004
- Messages
- 722
- Reaction score
- 3
I got one of those from Track of the Wolf. The first couple of times I tried it I really made a mess. After almost giving it up I thought I would try one more time. Using it for flushing only (it doesn't seem to want to take the pressure of a cleaning jag forcing the water out) it worked much better. I haven't tried the toothpick in the touch hole but I'm thinking it would get pushed out with pressure.
Are you sure the Pedersoli is pinned? I thought they usually were screwed in from the ramrod pipes.
Are you sure the Pedersoli is pinned? I thought they usually were screwed in from the ramrod pipes.
This is how I clean mine & once ya get used to cleaning them like this, takes about 15 min to fully clean the rifle.
I use this method to clean all my flintlocks & percussions, longrifles
and halfstocks.
I use dishwater liquid soap & cold water for the flushing solution. (or 2 oz of Ballistol
per gallon of water in a jug)
I put the rifle upside down in a cradle & remove the lock & have the barrel end a little
lower than the buzzle. This way if I get any seepage out of the clamp or fitting, it stays
on the Outside bottom of the barrel & NOT down into the barrel channel.
Next thing I do is take a breech scraper & scrape the accumulated fouling off the breech
face. It takes about 15 seconds & knocks all that thick crud off the breech face. (Note:
they make a special scraper for a GPPR & T/C or you can take a standard blade scraper
in .36 cal & make one for them by rounding the edges of the blade to the contour of
the patent breech interior. On a 40-45 you may need a .32 cal on for this)
Then remover the range rod & invert the rifle muzzle down & bump the breech with your hand
& the fouling will fall out. Now put the rifleback in the cradle upside down & connect
the Flush Kit & wet a patch, put it on a jag on a range rod with a bore protector & take it to
the breech & then suck the barrel full of the solution & just leave the rod hanging out at
the muzzle, with the barrel full of solution. (You may need to support the rod at the handle).
Then while the barrel is soaking I & clean the lock asm. under faucet
with a old toothbrush, blow dry with air & or dry with a paper towel & take
a tiny screwdriver & work the towel into the cracks & etc., then spray
the lock down entirely including the flint, with Ballistol aerosol & pat dry with
a paper towel & set asside.
Back to the rifle in the cradle, I take a cleaning jag & a tight patch,
& start swabbing back & forth in full strokes to flush the barrel real
good for about 20 strokes. Change patches & do it again, change patches
and do it again til I am sure it is clean. Then I take the jag off & put on
a breech scraper & check for any fouling. Scrape if necessary & if there
is any fouling I put on a Breech Brush & brush the breech. The back to
the jag & wet patch & flush again.
Then I swab with a dry patch a time or two. I wad up 2 patchs
& put them in the bore & shove them to the breech with the jag
& hold it there tight with the ramrod & then take a worm & pull it
& check it for moisture & fouling. Then I do 2 more. And 2 more if
necessary to BE SURE THE BORE IS COMPLETELY DRY.
When dry, I then squirt a lil Non-Aerosol Ballistol in the barrel from a pump spray
bottle & wet a patch real wet with same Ballistol & again swab & force some
out the vent. (By doing this you just lubed the cone of the vent.
When I am satisfied it is lubed real good, I install the lock & close the frizzen on a dry
patch so any excess Ballistol will run out the vent & be absorbed in the patch at the frizzen.
You can do all the same with BreakFree which I used before I found Ballistol & it
works good also.
Now keep in mind this is not a Maybe this will work, this is a "I KNOW " it will work
proceedure.
Some tell me I go to too much detail, I know it works. I know I don't
have any rust in the bores of my rifles & have done this for 30+years, so it
must work.
It is IMPERATIVE that you get ALL of the moisture out of the barrel
and at the breech before you put the gun oil in the bore.
It is IMPERATIVE that you Reswab the bore the Next day & the
3rd day just to be sure you got it all lubed & etc.
Birddog6
I use this method to clean all my flintlocks & percussions, longrifles
and halfstocks.
I use dishwater liquid soap & cold water for the flushing solution. (or 2 oz of Ballistol
per gallon of water in a jug)
I put the rifle upside down in a cradle & remove the lock & have the barrel end a little
lower than the buzzle. This way if I get any seepage out of the clamp or fitting, it stays
on the Outside bottom of the barrel & NOT down into the barrel channel.
Next thing I do is take a breech scraper & scrape the accumulated fouling off the breech
face. It takes about 15 seconds & knocks all that thick crud off the breech face. (Note:
they make a special scraper for a GPPR & T/C or you can take a standard blade scraper
in .36 cal & make one for them by rounding the edges of the blade to the contour of
the patent breech interior. On a 40-45 you may need a .32 cal on for this)
Then remover the range rod & invert the rifle muzzle down & bump the breech with your hand
& the fouling will fall out. Now put the rifleback in the cradle upside down & connect
the Flush Kit & wet a patch, put it on a jag on a range rod with a bore protector & take it to
the breech & then suck the barrel full of the solution & just leave the rod hanging out at
the muzzle, with the barrel full of solution. (You may need to support the rod at the handle).
Then while the barrel is soaking I & clean the lock asm. under faucet
with a old toothbrush, blow dry with air & or dry with a paper towel & take
a tiny screwdriver & work the towel into the cracks & etc., then spray
the lock down entirely including the flint, with Ballistol aerosol & pat dry with
a paper towel & set asside.
Back to the rifle in the cradle, I take a cleaning jag & a tight patch,
& start swabbing back & forth in full strokes to flush the barrel real
good for about 20 strokes. Change patches & do it again, change patches
and do it again til I am sure it is clean. Then I take the jag off & put on
a breech scraper & check for any fouling. Scrape if necessary & if there
is any fouling I put on a Breech Brush & brush the breech. The back to
the jag & wet patch & flush again.
Then I swab with a dry patch a time or two. I wad up 2 patchs
& put them in the bore & shove them to the breech with the jag
& hold it there tight with the ramrod & then take a worm & pull it
& check it for moisture & fouling. Then I do 2 more. And 2 more if
necessary to BE SURE THE BORE IS COMPLETELY DRY.
When dry, I then squirt a lil Non-Aerosol Ballistol in the barrel from a pump spray
bottle & wet a patch real wet with same Ballistol & again swab & force some
out the vent. (By doing this you just lubed the cone of the vent.
When I am satisfied it is lubed real good, I install the lock & close the frizzen on a dry
patch so any excess Ballistol will run out the vent & be absorbed in the patch at the frizzen.
You can do all the same with BreakFree which I used before I found Ballistol & it
works good also.
Now keep in mind this is not a Maybe this will work, this is a "I KNOW " it will work
proceedure.
Some tell me I go to too much detail, I know it works. I know I don't
have any rust in the bores of my rifles & have done this for 30+years, so it
must work.
It is IMPERATIVE that you get ALL of the moisture out of the barrel
and at the breech before you put the gun oil in the bore.
It is IMPERATIVE that you Reswab the bore the Next day & the
3rd day just to be sure you got it all lubed & etc.
Birddog6
It is very simple and quick to clean with the barrel on by pluging the vent with a toothpick, dumping your favorite solution down the bore, puch out into a bucket with a wet patch after setting for a while, then alternate dry and wet patches till clean and dry then lube.
shortstring
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2006
- Messages
- 357
- Reaction score
- 2
Paul V nailed it. Been doing it that way for years. Can't beat it. I clean all my perc. guns the same way, put a stick in the nipple & let it soak with some soapy water for about a beer or so & patch it out.
I buy and sell a fair number of M/Ls and have over the years. Funny thing is every shooter has the best cleaning trix going. Why then are so many fine barrels ruined on used guns? Most of the damage is from poor cleaning, leaded, or rusted. Muzzle worn from cleaning rods. Some poor devils are confused maybe about is it, Cold water, Tiped water, Hot water, Warm water GEES? 
M.L.Rowland
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2004
- Messages
- 25
- Reaction score
- 0
Where do you get this Ballistol aerosol? Is it really an oil? Is it a black powder oil like bore butter? I have been told not to use any Petroleum based oils or cleaning solvents in my muzzleloaders. One thing I use to help dry my ML Rifes is Denatured Alcohol. Thanks,Mike
"? I have been told not to use any Petroleum based oils or cleaning solvents in my muzzleloaders."
As have many over the years, I have used regular gun oil in the past to lube the barrel then wiped clean before loading and the sky did not fall and everything shooting wise worked very well.There are many ways to clean/lube a ML most work...some are quicker than others, some are based on folk lore as much as fact.
As have many over the years, I have used regular gun oil in the past to lube the barrel then wiped clean before loading and the sky did not fall and everything shooting wise worked very well.There are many ways to clean/lube a ML most work...some are quicker than others, some are based on folk lore as much as fact.
fallaloosa
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2007
- Messages
- 116
- Reaction score
- 1
I usualy leave the barrel on and plug up the touchhole with a matchstick. I should mention that I use a smoothbore Brown Bess from Pedersoli. I then pour some hydrogen peroxide into the bore, this stuff really boils out the crud. Pour this out and most of the crud comes with it. I then use hot tap water to rinse and patches till dry and clean, followed by a quick shot of oil to counteract the peroxide which some have mentioned will rust a barrel. I have been using this method for years and have had no problems. Pulling the barrel is something I used to do but it just seemed like too much work, so I just leave it in the gun. Hope this helps
I put a toothpick in the touch hole. If you want to just mix stuff up without pushing it out, all you have to do is put the cleaning jag down there without a patch on it. Moving that jag up and down inside a barrel with water or cleaning solution in it, works like a little washing machine agitator. I then put a wet patch on it, push it part way down the barrel until I feel pressure, then pull the toothpick out and ram that wet patch down quickly. You wouldn't believe the black crud that comes flying out of that touch hole. Don't point it towards anything you don't want to stain, because it will shoot out a good 6 or 7 feet.Desert Rat said:
Twisted_1in66 :hatsoff:
mike alexandre
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2005
- Messages
- 722
- Reaction score
- 0
Yes, the Ped is pinned. You can also block the touch hole with a feather. Trap it under the frizz and it should not pump out with the ram rod. The swab need not be a very tight fit as at that stage all you need to do is agitate the water and crud at the bottom of the barrel.
:hmm: Maybe this is also a solution:
Waterless Cleaning
Waterless Cleaning
redwing said:I buy and sell a fair number of M/Ls and have over the years. Funny thing is every shooter has the best cleaning trix going. Why then are so many fine barrels ruined on used guns? Most of the damage is from poor cleaning, leaded, or rusted. Muzzle worn from cleaning rods. Some poor devils are confused maybe about is it, Cold water, Tiped water, Hot water, Warm water GEES?
What's your cleaning method then?
Mookie's Roost said:
You can get Ballistol at allot of sporting goods stores & ML venders, or from www.ballistol.com That is where I get mine from & get it buy the case as I use it in the workshop & out on the job sites & etc. Don't know what is in it & really don't care, all I know is it is water soyable & it works great in the bores of ML's. I use the aerosol on the lock & the nonaerosol in the bore.
Also a very good wife repellent, if you hear her coming to the gun room just turn around & spray towards the door & it will immediately repel her away from there. :grin:
