Cleaning help!

[Adui]

Funny you should mention that Hoppe's makes two formulas of #9...

Years ago, when I first got into this game I did use the nitro solvent to clean my BP revolver, it worked but was quite a chore. Wasn't till I got the rifle 4 or 5 years later that a kind hearted gent in the Muzzle-loader shop in Springfield Oregon clued me in on cleaning a black Powder firearm...

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

After reading your story I figure I should mention to the newcomers to black powder who have experience with cartridge guns, Hoppe's makes two totally different #9 solvents.

The old familiar solvent for nitro powders is about useless for cleaning a black powder rifle.
The kerosene based solvent doesn't dissolve black powder fouling at all. It does produce a nice gooey mess though.

The Hoppe's #9 that is made for black powder, says so on the label. This is the kind Kinman was writing about.

Why they called it #9 beats me. It leads to a lot of confusion when folks are talking about cleaning their black powder guns with Hoppe's #9.

Digressing a little, at one time Thompson Center made a #13 solvent and IMO they choose the name wisely.

A specific test I did using the TC #13 solvent proved to me that it will form rust in a clean bore so fast that running a dry patch in the bore immediately after swabbing it with #13 will leave rusty streaks on the once clean patch.

Zonie,

This is why I use Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine for a cleaner. I can do a "range clean" as I describe in various threads here on the forum, and a week later take the rifle apart and use warm water for a finish-up. Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine also suffers from the mix-up of regular Butch's Bore Shine, so Hoppe's #9 isn't the only confusion-causing cleaner. To the Black Powder version's credit, it contains a drying agent in the formula, so although it's water-based, it evaporates fast enough to not cause rusting, even if I wait to clean for a full week!

I highly recommend it, especially if you use Pyrodex, as it foams-up on contact with bp residue, and when the chemical reaction subsides, so does the threat level for rust to form :wink:

Dave

 

[Rick Son]

I'd a whacked eem in the shins with that cleanin rod :haha:

 

[Mulebrain]

Excuses are like, well you know the rest of the story.

I would clean it as normal at first, then see where the bore is at. Of course have him do it as per your instructions with belt in hand!

 

[GunnyGene]

Just for general info regarding rust. A plain white vinegar soak overnight will do a fine job of removing/loosening rust. Follow it up with a hot water wash to remove the vinegar and if necessary a little help with a brass bristle brush. May take a second soak if the rust is heavy. Then clean/oil as usual. Good to go.

 

[Scota4570]

As part of my job I sometimes restore crime guns that have been buried, thrown in water, or tossed in the bushes. These guns are often rusted solid. I need to restore the function for test firing. The following is the best product I have used. It does not touch good metal. http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html?gclid=CPzftJWo3boCFfFj7AodODQAyw

 

[christian]

A bit late to this party but let me second third and fourth Evaporust! It is absolutely freaking amazing stuff and will de-rust things that you would otherwise think impossible with minimal effort. With firearms I would suggest being cautious of any bluing though I personally haven't experienced it remove any. When working with barrels I generally plug up the bottom, fill the barrel with a funnel and let it sit.