Cleaning Kibler Woodsrunner?

[tenngun]

You don't need to remove the barrel to clean the rifle, just the lock. Instructions in post above. Except I use Ballistol instead of WD-40. If you happen to get some water in the barrel channel, blow it out with compressed air.

However, maybe you might want to occasionally, say once a year or so, to remove the barrel to clean and oil the underside, to continue protecting it from corrosion.

I like to paint the underside of my barrel and barrel channel with bees wax. I pull my barrels now once aver few years and that treatment keeps them clean.

 

[waksupi]

I HAVE used it to brown barrels.

I looked it up. Peroxide is a bleaching agent that can indeed be corrosive to metal and wood and wood finishes. Best to use diluted. I've always said there is something to be learned here every day. Actually I've never used it

 

[Buff1958]

I remove the barrels every time. There are many ways and products to use for cleaning and with the barrel removed the chances off damage to the stock are much less and cleaning is easier and better. Once you've developed your procedure for removing the barrel it's easy.

I remove mine about once a year and put a heavy coat of wax under the barrel. Then once it is back together, I put a couple of coats of wax on the whole gun making sure to get it in where the barrel meets the stock to form a water tight seal. I shoot 4 or 5 days a week and figure I would wear out the pin holes pushing them out 5 times a week

 

[Wncman]

A friend suggested using windshield washer fluid, mostly water anyway. With patches several times till they came out clean. A scraper for the breach. Then I used balistol worked very well on my colonial

 

[Marc H]

What is the cleaning method described in the Kibler Manual?

Wouldn't that be the best place to find accurate info?

Marc

 

[yellowhammer]

I don't ever take barrels off.

I've been using the magnetic flusher sold by a member in here, davec2, and it works really well: LINK TO FLUSHER

Here's the way I clean my rifles - just my 2c, YMMV:

1. I pull the lock and clean it with straight Ballistol
2. Place the magnet over the hole, blow thru it to make sure youre over the vent.
3. Place the tube clunk in hot water w/Dawn
4. Orient gun muzzle low w/vent down. Pump back and forth w/patches until clean. Make sure dont knock magnet off-center.
5. Real good generous water flush shot of WD40 after.
6. Dry patch and QUICKLY, to avoid flash rust, swab with RIG patch with a shot of WD40 to saturate and dilute a little.
7. Re-assemble, wipe all over gun w/Ballistol rag, give 'er a good rub down with an old t-shirt, store gun muzzle down for a day or 2.

 

[Flint1]

I looked it up. Peroxide is a bleaching agent that can indeed be corrosive to metal and wood and wood finishes. Best to use diluted. I've always said there is something to be learned here every day. Actually I've never used it on a gun.

For 25 years or more I've used the Murphy's oil soap, rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide mixed equally as my cleaning solution. It cleans quickly and I've never had corrosion problems. After trying it a couple times I did find I could not use it to clean the exterior of the barrel--it does remove browning.

 

[Spikebuck]

Lots of various cleaning concoctions. I've used various mixtures over the years, but settled on just using warm water with a little Dawn. I do have one of the clamp on pump devices, but rarely use it. I remove the lock and clean. I put down a folded paper towel and lay the rifle touch hole down on the paper towel to catch residue. Wet patch until clean. When cleaned and dry I first squirt a little WD40 in the touch hole to capture any moisture I may have missed, run another dry patch, then run a patch with a rust inhibitor.

Exception is if I have used conicals. Then same procedure, but will occasionally scrub out lead residue with JB Bore paste.