Cleaning tool

[TDM]

 

[Brokennock]

All BP firearms should use only water based natural solutions

 

[Mad L]

I find the tube cleaner with a bit of White Lightning works just fine, especially when them pesty Revenoors be sneakin abouts

 

[The Appalachian]

I don't even opine on these dumb threads anymore.

Everybody says everything works.....'nuff said.

 

[TDM]

I don't even opine on these dumb threads anymore.

Everybody says everything works.....'nuff said.

Yep, but they’re kinda funny to read.

 

[Will]

I actually enjoy reading what others use for their smoke poles. That is what forums are for and that is why we all go to them. We didn't have that option before these darn pooters. When I got into this hobby, water and bore butter were pretty much the used procedure. My Dad used the bore butter right up until he passed. It is interesting now to read what others have gained in experience as well. I have since moved on to things like Ballistol, Barricade and lately even WD-40 Specialist for a rust inhibitor. I still clean with water and my wife's Dawn dish soap.

 

[kyron4]

Baby tears to clean , and only the purist tears for my guns.

 

[tenngun]

I don't even opine on these dumb threads anymore.

Everybody says everything works.....'nuff said.

That’s cause everything works. Clean off burnt powder dry oil. All roads lead to Rome.

 

[woodsnwater]

Clamp with hose fits a Kibler SMR perfectly with no leaks. It cut my cleaning time in half.

 

[Grenadier1758]

One of the reasons that everything works is that almost everything has water as part of the solvent. Black powder fouling is easily cleaned with water and the detergent soaps or rubbing alcohol will dissolve the oils used for lubricants. Many of the rust inhibiting lubricants will work as well for long term storage. There are effects due to humidity or rust accelerators that used for purification of public water that leads to flash rust when used with very hot water.

As part of a reenactors' workshop, we did a cleaning session to demonstrate historically correct cleaning procedures and to also talk about the best of the modern procedures. There were about 20 participants and when we got to the best of the modern practices everyone seemed to have a cleaning procedure that produced excellent cleaning results and I will swear there at least 30 to 50 different procedures that were touted as the best and could be demonstrated as working as described. I do have to admit that getting some of the reenactors to clean with anything in the first place was a step towards the best cleaning practice. I used my Long Land Pattern King's Musket as an example. I dampened a cleaning patch on my jag and the weight of the rod pushed the jag to the breech. I then did the same to one of the reenactor's muskets that believed that as long as the blanks fired, the musket was clean enough. The cleaning rod stopped at about two inches from the muzzle. It took several patches using the method of going a short distance until the cleaning rod stopped, let it soak the fouling, withdraw and use a clean patch to go another short distance. We eventually got the musket cleaned. Note that for the safety inspection, a metal rod would drop to the breech and ping indicating the musket was unloaded.

And yes, the cleaning tool with super strong magnet that is sold by Dave Criseli as described by @Brokennock in post #2 is better than the clamp on cleaning tube. If you have a slotted touch hole liner, you have to be sure the gasket covers all of the slot in the liner or there will be leakage of solvent.

 

[Mad L]

One of the reasons that everything works is that almost everything has water as part of the solvent. Black powder fouling is easily cleaned with water and the detergent soaps or rubbing alcohol will dissolve the oils used for lubricants. Many of the rust inhibiting lubricants will work as well for long term storage. There are effects due to humidity or rust accelerators that used for purification of public water that leads to flash rust when used with very hot water.

As part of a reenactors' workshop, we did a cleaning session to demonstrate historically correct cleaning procedures and to also talk about the best of the modern procedures. There were about 20 participants and when we got to the best of the modern practices everyone seemed to have a cleaning procedure that produced excellent cleaning results and I will swear there at least 30 to 50 different procedures that were touted as the best and could be demonstrated as working as described. I do have to admit that getting some of the reenactors to clean with anything in the first place was a step towards the best cleaning practice. I used my Long Land Pattern King's Musket as an example. I dampened a cleaning patch on my jag and the weight of the rod pushed the jag to the breech. I then did the same to one of the reenactor's muskets that believed that as long as the blanks fired, the musket was clean enough. The cleaning rod stopped at about two inches from the muzzle. It took several patches using the method of going a short distance until the cleaning rod stopped, let it soak the fouling, withdraw and use a clean patch to go another short distance. We eventually got the musket cleaned. Note that for the safety inspection, a metal rod would drop to the breech and ping indicating the musket was unloaded.

And yes, the cleaning tool with super strong magnet that is sold by Dave Criseli as described by @Brokennock in post #2 is better than the clamp on cleaning tube. If you have a slotted touch hole liner, you have to be sure the gasket covers all of the slot in the liner or there will be leakage of solvent.

I have to agree with 'reenactor' rifles. I had a few come to me wanting to learn how to live fire their Springfields with patch and ball, all three had only ever fired Blank fire. I looked at their rifles, asked how the cleaned them, they told me the "Used only water because that was the old way and how everyone did it."
Further questioning and I found the had no idea what tow is and owned NO lubricating Oil of any kind.
Well, I did not want them putting a patched RB down the barrel until each rifle was Cleaned, Disassembled, Inspected, and I say they where 'safe' for live fire.
*note: to them "live fire" is shooting bare powder blank, but to me "live fire" means you are shooting an actual projectile*

Well, one had a bad Safty, he had to take that one to a gunsmith. Another had a nipple that I absolutely could not get off and he had to take that to a gunsmith.
Before they took to two in I cleaned all three up for them.

This is what I pulled out of the first rifle, mind you the owner said it was "Clean" for they Always Clean them after every battle (but admitted they Never Oil them).
And this is Not All the patches either, I had already tossed the first few before I realized just how bad they were and took the photo to show them later.

I can run 30 to 40 PRB through my .50 cal flintlock, run two wet patches down before heading home (I use Shenandoah for that), and once home use only 5 to 7 patches and about 5 q-tips, one last oiled patch before putting it away...and None of patches will look like what I pulled out of theirs....but remember they told me their rifles were "Clean" before they gave them to me.
(Both pics from same Springfield)

 

[TreeMan]

Petroleum based, add burnt black and you make sludge. All BP firearms should use only water based natural solutions.

All of my guns are doused inside with WD40. Been doing it for decades. No rust and a little break cleaner before the next outing and they are good to go. I wish I’d have known sooner.

 

[painter]

I use Dave Crisali's magnetic rig on my Kibler. I'll try it on my Pedersoli , with a slotted vent liner, the next time I shoot it.

I use a piece of clear vinyl tubing that fits on the nipples of my percussion guns with the same excellent results.

I really should have just gotten a bowl of popcorn and watched, instead of posting.

 

[The Appalachian]

I have to agree with 'reenactor' rifles. I had a few come to me wanting to learn how to live fire their Springfields with patch and ball, all three had only ever fired Blank fire. I looked at their rifles, asked how the cleaned them, they told me the "Used only water because that was the old way and how everyone did it."
Further questioning and I found the had no idea what tow is and owned NO lubricating Oil of any kind.
Well, I did not want them putting a patched RB down the barrel until each rifle was Cleaned, Disassembled, Inspected, and I say they where 'safe' for live fire.
*note: to them "live fire" is shooting bare powder blank, but to me "live fire" means you are shooting an actual projectile*

Well, one had a bad Safty, he had to take that one to a gunsmith. Another had a nipple that I absolutely could not get off and he had to take that to a gunsmith.
Before they took to two in I cleaned all three up for them.

This is what I pulled out of the first rifle, mind you the owner said it was "Clean" for they Always Clean them after every battle (but admitted they Never Oil them).
And this is Not All the patches either, I had already tossed the first few before I realized just how bad they were and took the photo to show them later.

I can run 30 to 40 PRB through my .50 cal flintlock, run two wet patches down before heading home (I use Shenandoah for that), and once home use only 5 to 7 patches and about 5 q-tips, one last oiled patch before putting it away...and None of patches will look like what I pulled out of theirs....but remember they told me their rifles were "Clean" before they gave them to me.
(Both pics from same Springfield)

To be fair, and, well, honest....none of them come close to having a clue. So it doesn't surprise me their "clean" is still filthy.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Oh, there are some of us reenactors that do have a clue, but then I have been shooting with fairly competitive traditional muzzle loading gun club.

 

[The Appalachian]

Oh, there are some of us reenactors that do have a clue, but then I have been shooting with fairly competitive traditional muzzle loading gun club.

Those 3, referenced in that quoted post. Not you. Not all. Just those 3, with the filthy "clean" guns.

 

[Mad L]

Oh, there are some of us reenactors that do have a clue, but then I have been shooting with fairly competitive traditional muzzle loading gun club.

Yes, you are correct. My introduction to BP firearms was through some well knowledgeable reenactors. They took us to a range, taught us safety, loading, shooting. We used to have an annual 'training camp' with various classes one of witch was cannons and one small arms. But after that group moved away I never found another (local to me) and had to pursue on my own ... except for a small few but all where more at my level.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have one, used once. Big hassle.

 

[Mad L]

I have one, used once. Big hassle.

Agree. Used mine twice, second time was to make the Revenoor Skit, never pulled it out again - roughly 7 years now.

 

[stewart.leach]

The single most important thing to know and do about cleaning your rifle, pistol or shotgun is:

Do it before you go to bed!