Cleaning up after using Moose Snot

[Desert Rat]

Has anyone had difficulties cleaning a bore after using Moose Snot?

Here's the story... I am a 99.9% cut at the bore spit patcher. I've been doing it for a lot of years and it hasn't let me down. This past week I did my first ever deer hunt and wanted to do it as PC as was prudent. I opted to give the Moose Snot a try because I wasn't excited about leaving a damp patch in the bore all day. I also wanted to use my brand new never used 5 year old loading block (I just never had a reason to use it). Not having hunted before I figured it might be handy to have another shot available a little quicker. Anyway the issue is that with my normal procedure of using plain warm water to clean, the barrel is just not coming as clean as it used to. It seems like I used to go through maybe a half dozen patches and the last one would be as white as when it started down the barrel. The last couple of times I've cleaned I've actually given up because my arm is tired and I have close to two dozen patches laying on the floor.

I'm pretty sure it's the snot, it's the only thing I've done differently. Could I have mixed something wrong while making it? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about getting my clean bore back? I'm kinda thinking a day of good ole spit patch shooting might help.

Thanks

 

[Blizzard of '93]

I don't use Moose Snot for patch lube but I do use windsheild wiper fluid for clean-up. fill the bore (plug nipple) with it after brushing and patching, let soak then dump and repeat. patch or mop with w/w fluid until clean dry and lube. I use it around the nipple/lock area with an old toothbrush. really takes the crud off. cold weather fluid has more alcohol in it and really cuts the crud.

 

[rice1817]

I think the very properties that keep the snot from drying out keep it clinging to the bore after shooting and trapping the fouling. I would suggest either hot water to help dissolve the oils and grease, or else some sort of alcohol. However, do not get too concerned about getting the bore spotless. Once the salts are dissolved, the rest of the fouling is simple carbon and won't hurt anything. I think there are more rifles damaged with overly aggressive cleaning than are damaged by having a little graphite left in the bore. Me, I use bear grease and beeswax mixture for patch lube, and hot water and tow to swab the bore "clean". Firt I plug the touch hole and pour hot water into the barrel, slosh it around a few times, then dump it. Most of the fouling and salts come out with the first evolution. I do this a couple of times. Finally, I wet some tow and scrub a few strokes, rinse the tow and repeat. One dry patch, one bear grease patch, and I am done.

 

[Stumpkiller]

La Longue is correct. The bore is greased up like a buttered pan for cooking. You'll never get it out with plain water. It just won't cut the oils and waxes. Use a little Ivory Soap scraped off a bar - just a couple "Corn Flakes" sized pieces dissolved in the water.

Then, try running an alcohol soaked patch at least once in the wiping process and then afterwards before an oil patch. This dissipates the castor oil and also helps evaporate out any water droplets.

Good shooting,

Stumpy.

 

[Desert Rat]

Geesh, if there were anymore common sense required on it I'd have to make myself a note to breathe :rotf: :rotf:

I was reasonably sure that it was somewhat normal but couldn't put my finger on the why of it. Do you think a couple of sessions of spit patching would clean it out it or should I put the t&e into it now? The barrel is actually an old Italian Harpers Ferry model that has extremly shallow rifling.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Probably will. That beeswax is amazing stuff when it comes to grabbing and holding onto metal (that's why it works soo good). But it does hold some crud, too. The heat of firing should soften it up.

 

[longcruise]

I finally ended up using carb cleaner to get it out of my bore(s). That stuff shoots great and loads great to, but it bothers me that it is so persistent in the bore.

I went back to simpler and easier to clean options.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I don't think there is or can be a lube and/or cleaning solvent or method that works for everyone. We all have different ways of loading and cleaning. Experimentation and trial is the only way.

I use a combination of my Moose Snot, clean with the Moose Juice solvent and then 91% iso alcohol and then hit the bore with Beechwood-Casey Sheath (a penetrating and protecting oil). Before using the rifle again I will wipe with alcohol to clear the oil and wipe with a Moose Snot greased patch, then load. The pre-wipe sure seems to make the eventual clean up easier (for me).

I use a lot less lube on a patch than many I've watched. Just enough to fill the weave without glopping it on. We all do things a little different. I also use dipped and dried patching with similar results. Could be something I do in the cleaning process is different enough (or the bores of my rifles) that what works for me leaves you flat and disgusted. Hard water vs. soft water?

Part of the fun and charm of muzzleloading. :wink:

 

[longcruise]

Yup, "diffrent strokes for diffrent folks" as the old saying goes!

Lately I've been using a mix of denatured acohol and castor oil in some various ratios. So far it works fine if applied to patching and left to "dry" or applied to the patch and loaded immediately.

If left to dry it leaves a nice even amount of castor oil throughout the patch but when used this way it seems to work best when the bore is wiped between shots. I wipe with moose milk (napa oil and water) or just plain old water.

When it's applied to the patch just before loading, it eliminates the need to wipe between shots and is easy to load. Great for hunting or trail walks where multiple shots may be fired during the course of the day. I've enlarged the holes in several of my loading blocks to make for a slip fit that will hold the patched balls in place but not squeeze the patch too much. Then I just squirt a bit of lube on the underside of the patched ball and load. Quick and easy loading in the field plus the patch is already cut so that step is eliminated too.

Castor oil is probably not at all essential to this system. Olive oil, corn oil, etc. could probably be used with equal success at less expense. Would also like to find a substitute for the denatured alcohol but nothing has come to mind.

PS, I first started using the loading block and liquid lube method with moose snot and it worked great as well.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Would also like to find a substitute for the denatured alcohol but nothing has come to mind.

Go to a liquor store and ask for "Ever-Clear". Costs more (tax) but you can drink it (NEVER straight). 190 proof alcohol and a "moonshine" substitute.

 

[longcruise]

Go to a liquor store and ask for "Ever-Clear". Costs more (tax) but you can drink it (NEVER straight). 190 proof alcohol and a "moonshine" substitute.

That's a great idea.

Somewhere in the back of my mind I remember that stuff. Just not clearly... could be dead brain cells!

 

[Frank/Pa]

Yep, dead brain cells from drinking ever clear. :shocked2:

 

[FPDoc]

90% alcohol at pharmacy=$11/8oz
190proof at liquor store= $5/16oz
90% alcohol at farm supply store $12/gal (for cleaning your vet equipment... and BP rifles)

P.S. I had a lot of fun the other day making a batch of Moose Juice and Moose Snot. I had a lot of junk float up to be skimmed, is it usually so much?

 

[shmrck1]

Stumpy,
You are really funny Do you really
think with all the options I have to clean
my barrels,that I would use "Ever-Clear" for
any other reason than to clear my throat.Its
great as a mouth wash,and you can swallow it.
Can't even buy it in Ohio,but it has shown up
on occasions from other sources.I know I am off topic.
snake-eyes :hmm:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Fdoc: I don't know where you buy your isopropyl Alcohol, but I can find it at Walgreens for less than $1.00! for a pint. ( 8 oz.) Not the $11.00 you indicate. Everclear is way more expensive. And, there is no need to use denatured alcohol you buy at the paint and hardware stores, either. That stuff is expensive, even in large quantities. Iso p, will do the job just fine, and what remains in the barrel quickly evaporates to remove any moisture that might have been in the barrel still. Maybe that $11.00 is a typo from you hick-uping. You didn't drink any of the stuff before typing your post, now, did you? :nono: :rotf:

 

[Stumpkiller]

A pint is 16 oz. (not 8). ;-)

"A pint's a pound the world around"

I think it's $1.89 on sale at CVS for a pint on occasion. You can get stove alcohol or solvent alcohol at hardware stores that is good 90% stuff.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I never said I used Ever-clear. Marmotslayer was looking for a more authentic source of alcohol. Short of building a still Ever-clear was the obvious choice. ;-)

Strip the finish off your rifle, too. :shocked2:

 

[Mike 56]

They don't sell 190 Everclear in California. But here in the San Joaquin Valley were i live Portuguese diesel (190 proof homemade brandy) is pretty easy to find.

Mike

 

[brubincam]

if anyone sees you licking the floor the will know you spilled some,,,