color case hardening

[BlackNet]

noticed that several locks have this going on and was wondering what method would be usable to get this effect, mostly on locks. what equipment and materials would I need, also what techniques?

Ed

 

[tnlonghunter]

I actually asked the same question on another forum (graybeardoutdoors.com). The response was something like this: pack the metal part in powdered bone or charcoal, inside a container capable of withstanding high temperatures. Place the container in a furnace and heat it up REALLY HOT. The response didn't say how hot exactly, but I'd imagine 1500 degrees or so at least. Then remove the part while still hot and quench it in a mixture of oil and water. If you pour oil in water and put it under the light, you can see the rainbow effect. My guess is that this process opens up the molecules of the steel and allows the oil-rainbow effect to get inside the metal pores. I asked if this was something I could do on my own, and was assured that it's a very difficult process to perfect, that you need pretty specialized equipment to do it, and lots of experience to pull it off, so I should really send of any parts to a professional. A guy named Doug Turnbull is reportedly one of the best in the business. I've seen some of his work and it is great. His webesite is[url] turnbullrestoration.com[/url]

Hope this helps.

 

[George F.]

You can buy the stuff from Brownells and it comes with instructions, plus if you have any other questions they have a tech service that can guide you. .......George F.

 

[davy]

You can buy the stuff from Brownells and it comes with instructions, plus if you have any other questions they have a tech service that can guide you. .......George F.

From what I understand of the process, a big problem is warpage of large parts as they are quenched .. so be warned! :nono:

Davy

 

[Mike Brooks]

I send my stuff to Doug Turnbull Restorations. They do excellent work cheap.

 

[sse]

I just got a quote for a receiver on a smokeless shotgun of $200.00. Seems like a lot of $$ to me.

Regards, sse

 

[Mike Brooks]

Well, set yourself up to do the same quality case coloring your self and tell me how much you have invested when you're done. :winking:

 

[noahmercy]

I, too, recommend Turnbull. He is the industry standard and stands behind his work. Many professional builders and even some fine firearms manufacturers use his service. That speaks volumes about the quality of his work. Unless you intend to do quantity work, it's cheaper to send the stuff to him in the long run.

:thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

Follow this link to another post about "Color Case Hardening".
Among the things there is one method that can be done with a propane torch.

COLORING STEEL PARTS

 

[bouldersmith]

No kidding Mike...I'm doing just that....the kiln was free....buddy has a set of high end controlors....also free.....looks like by the time I get the crucibles made, charcoal bought, electric run etc....I'm guessing 800$....and lots of practice. A wonderful article was written by the late Dr. Oscar Gaddy, 2 parts in The double gun journal, this guy knew how to do it without warping. By the way, Turnbull does beautiful work. I hope someday to be in that league.
Steve

 

[paulvallandigham]

Oscar Gaddy was a personal friend, and he actually re-discovered the lost formula for color case hardening using Bone Charcoal. This is a powdered carbonized product that does not involved actual bones, leather, etc., you sometimes hear about. Oscar was an Electronic Engineering Professor, and a passionate collector of Parker Shotguns. He sought out the formulas to case harden old guns to do restoration work on his own guns. The published formulas that have survived all left out a vital step, and would not work. Oscar examined the literature in America, and Europe, and then obtained help from a Prof. of metallurgy, and another Prof. of Chemistry, to work out the missing steps. He published the articles in the Double Gun Journal in the Winter, 1996, and Spring, 1997 editions, to give back to the world this process that had been lost when the last master craftsmen died and took it to their graves with them. If you want to know about Bone Charcoal color case hardening and the process, please read these articles. Although I was never present when Oscar actually case hardened any action, I got the cook's tour of his shop, and the equipment pictured in the article. He wanted shooters interested in this process of metal finishing to know the process, so it would not be lost, or hidden, again. The articles are good reads. I have my copies. Honor this fine gentleman, and sportsman by taking the time to find and read this. You will thank him when you finish.

 

[bouldersmith]

Paul,
very well said. While I never met Oscar, I spoke to him on the phone once and corresponded with him via email several times. A true gentlemen and a loss for the firearm community.
Steve

 

[musketman]

No kidding Mike...I'm doing just that....the kiln was free....buddy has a set of high end controlors....also free.....looks like by the time I get the crucibles made, charcoal bought, electric run etc....I'm guessing 800$....and lots of practice. A wonderful article was written by the late Dr. Oscar Gaddy, 2 parts in The double gun journal, this guy knew how to do it without warping. By the way, Turnbull does beautiful work. I hope someday to be in that league.
Steve

Found a color hardening chart to use as a reference...

 

[Zonie]

Musketman: Thanks, but I think that is the colors of the heated steel at temperature. Good chart for those wanting to heat treat their tumblers and sears because those are the colors to hold the part at for awhile right before quenching.

I believe the surface colors remaining on the part of a color case hardened part are more related to the tempering colors.
These temperatures for carbon steel are:
YELLOW = 430 F
STRAW = 470 F
BROWN = 500 F
PURPLE = 540 F
BLUE = 570 F

 

[m-g willy]

Never tried it -----but----this was told to me by a old timer

1.put thin coat of oil on piece
2. coat piece with powdered bone
3.WRAP piece to be colorcased hardened in urine soaked thick piece of leather (horse urine is supposed to be the best for this)
4.place leather wraped piece in 3/16 thick steel box
5.pack wood chips (maple works best) tight around piece ,shut box
6.heat box to cherry red(hold at this temp till box stops smoking
7. let box air cool
8. open box and take out deep blue +gray+ yellow streaked piece OF ART:winking:

9.(OR A WARPED AND CRACKED PIECE OF SCRAP :cursing: )

Like I said--- I never tried this---


If you follow these steps and it works out to no.8 on the list, then I will take full credit :bow:

BUT if it turns out like 9. :shocked2:
Then I never made this post I don't know what you are talking about, that ani't me ,and you don't know where I live. :haha:

Willy

 

[sse]

Hey Steve - Wanna do my receiver for a hundred bucks?

The POINT I was making is that this is a pricey deal, so you better have the end result to justify it. I also have a low end single shot shotgun that could use the once over, but it'll never be worth 200 clams.

Regards, sse

 

[RedFeather]

I just got a quote for a receiver on a smokeless shotgun of $200.00. Seems like a lot of $$ to me.

Regards, sse

See points about warped parts. On receivers like falling blocks you have to shore them up internally to prevent it. Guess it takes ruining a few to get the knack. $200 really doesn't buy a lot these days.

RedFeather