Color matching epoxy/wood filler

[Onojutta]

I'm making a repair to a repair on an old walnut stock. A piece broke off the fore end and it was epoxied back on, sanded, and refinished. The problem is the epoxy was a light color, and it really catches the eye and bothers the owner (me). Would have been much better it was dyed brown or even just black. I tried staining and dying the visible epoxy line but nothing takes. I finally used a veiner to give the epoxy "relief" in which I will apply new epoxy or wood filler dyed to better match the wood.

I have some PC Woody epoxy (also light in color) that I tried adding oil based paint too, but can't seem to get the color right. Is there a better product on the market that might stand a better chance of matching? I thought about trying some walnut colored wood filler, but would that hold up as well as epoxy or would that be at risk of popping out over time?

Appreciate any thoughts.

 

[SDSmlf]

I would remove at least the surface epoxy, they repair with an epoxy stained during mixing before it sets up. Brownells Acraglas and their dyes seem to work well for me. I try and get it a bit darker than what wood will finish to. Lighter colors jump out more in my opinion. Takes some experimentation.

 

[Onojutta]

Thanks SDSmlf, that procedure is exactly what I was trying to describe. Just wasn't sure of what to use.

 

[Crow Choker]

I've used Brownell's acraglas and their five bottles of acraglas dyes for around 35-40 years. Not hard to match wood color with a little experimenting. Even used them when restoring some 80 some year old Victorian window and door trim when doing some interior house redo last year, 2020. Unless you know where I did it, almost impossible to see.

 

[1950DAVE]

Fine walnut sanding dust. It may need lightening with some fine maple dust to get the color right.
Dave

 

[Rudall]

Or finely ground coffee. I used a mortar and pestle. Use a thin layer of super glue, sprinkle on the coffee and press in. Build up as necessary and scrape/sand flush. I did that on a gouge in a walnut pistol and it’s invisible.

 

[Onojutta]

I like the coffee grounds idea. Might be worth a try before I buy Acraglass.

 

[rchas]

I color epoxy with oil based paint, usually burnt sienna. The problem is that after adding the color, the epoxy is still translucent and doesn't look right. Along with the color, I add some fine sawdust which will make the epoxy opaque and blend in better.

 

[windini]

I have used "trans-tint" dyes and aniline dye powders to color finishes and make dyes. Aniline powders work in hot water, alcohol, and oil solvents, so they probably work in epoxies.

Trans-tint may be a name brand & similar products may exist. Anyway, they are pretty transparent as opposed to pigmented stains. I can't remember where I got mine (mail order), but they come in little plastic bottles (2 oz?) with nozzle tips for adding 1 drop at a time.

 

[SDSmlf]

The dye that Brownells includes in their Acraglas bedding kits (comes in small tubes) or the sells in one oz jars works very well in their Acraglas epoxy. I have seen other ‘color’ additives create curing problems with epoxy. A little of the dye goes a long way.

 

[poker]

There are ink pens available for blending in scratches to hardwood floors. Just go over your epoxy and onto the wood somewhat with the closet color. Or use two colors to create a grained look. They blend well and are permanent. I know Ive seen them in menards at the flooring dept.

 

[ZUG]

You can get artist dyes from an art store and match almost any wood with them.

 

[user 48679]

Fine walnut sanding dust. It may need lightening with some fine maple dust to get the color right.
Dave

+1 - drill a hole into the buttstock (same wood can be invisible) under the buttplate, grind the sawdust very fine (like sanding dust) & mix it into the epoxy.